Captain Bondo Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 C16 is obviously burnt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost3237 Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 C16 is obviously burnt... Indeed, sometimes it just takes another pair of eyes I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 C16 is obviously burnt... Thanks for noticing that, but that's just the resin around the (relatively large) solder joint; that handles the rpm input, which works fine. It's something more fundamental that is switching off after initial power up of the unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 C16 is obviously burnt... Possibly, but unlikely. It seems like it got re-soldered by hand at one point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 Possibly, but unlikely. It seems like it got re-soldered by hand at one point. Not unless they did it at the assembly plant. I bought it brand new sealed box last May. Anyway, the voltage convertor is fine - 12v input, 5v output, doesn't drop out. I'll have to keep looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bondo Posted May 3, 2010 Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 That solder connection has either been screwed with or overheated. Maybe they had to touch it up at the factory, but that's not how it should look. It should look like the rest of the joints. There shouldn't be brown resin/heat marks all around it. This thread is a comedy of errors it would seem. :D 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricF Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Send it down to the office and I'll go over it under a stereo microscope and re-touch any suspicious solder joints. Just an offer. Could take pictures of any joints with hairline cracks under the microscope if you want Also, it's hard to see from that picture, but it looks like all the 'feet' of the main chip on the right side are a little burnt up. Could be lighting and/or limitations of the camera though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Send it down to the office and I'll go over it under a stereo microscope and re-touch any suspicious solder joints. Just an offer. Could take pictures of any joints with hairline cracks under the microscope if you want Also, it's hard to see from that picture, but it looks like all the 'feet' of the main chip on the right side are a little burnt up. Could be lighting and/or limitations of the camera though.. I would like to take you up on that And Yes, the row of pins above the "NEC" logo do look a tad dodgy compared to the others. I'll PM you for address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bum2kev Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 firmware? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 firmware? What's the question? The board revisions between the two appear the same- swapping just the I/O board solved the issue, so it's definitely the I/O board rather than the main board at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
550 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Try to clean that area with alcohol. If it is rosin it should come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Log from this evening had lowered the WOT sliders to lean it out a little, may have to go back up a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Log from this AM Looks OK, but need to even out that rich/lean area in the transition to WOT - timing drops momentarily also. Still needs work, but AFR's seem to be OK overall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 what does your actual current ignition table look like? trying to compare how well tt does controling ignition compared to megasquirt, i need to log alot more and post so i can get some feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 what does your actual current ignition table look like? trying to compare how well tt does controling ignition compared to megasquirt, i need to log alot more and post so i can get some feedback. Post screenshot of your timing map. Mine is similar to this one, just changed some of the values in the 0-6% load range. Compared to a stock (2.75" housing) map, the values now in the 62-68% load areas were originally the 100% values, and values are adjusted around that. Map trace record is still not really viable for logging, and I haven't watched the map trace under load/ progressive throttle to watch what load ranges I'm hitting. Timing is still dropping when load first builds, and I don't know what area of the map to look at right now. Need another set of eyes to deal with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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