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Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens


lookforjoe

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Doesn't feel like it. Haven't done enough logging to see what happens at higher boost.

Not higher boost, did 2 3rd gear pulls this morning, gradually going WOT. Definitely need to lean it out now @ WOT (4.35v) before I play with boost levels. AFR's are up close to 13, timing looks great, however. Once I've got the AFR's down, I'll try some more aggressive runs.

Picture3-2.png

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There's a jump in timing from 12.5 to 18 on the right columns, wonder why? Left run looks with a more gradual change.

Depends on a bunch of factors; also I edited the graph down to mostly 100rpm increments, so the gradual shift over several milliseconds often goes away. I'd have to look at the timing map in the 6K- high load ranges to check what max timing is @ the given load.

Timing does look great actually. Even better than it did at lower AFR. Maybe a side effect of running less boost? How do EGTs look? :)

Haven't been watching the EGT gauge - I don't have that tied into the data logging (actually don't know if it can interpret the signal, not that it shouldn't).

I'll have to watch that in the next runs...

I've had to mess with the APexi AVC-R duty cycles a fair bit - all the scaling I had figured out for the boost level presets don't work with the 60-1 wheel - I have to raise all the duty cycles to get the actual boost in line with the preset (obviously a side effect of the much higher CFM's of the new compressor). Once that's done, and I know the AFR's are good the the current boost level, I'll give it a go @ 20psi or so :D

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Well, even with the heavy rain, I did do a couple of hard WOT runs, and there may still be some oil smoke, seems like uphill when it happened.

I decided to redo the drain tube, since that really is the only remaining area. I had redone the tube using an EGR tube off a Pontiac...

XROilDrainTube0004.jpg

...ID ends up being slightly under stock, and the upper junction is really tight, so maybe oil is sloshing back under heavy G's :lol:

I tried using high temp silicone hose with the stock ends, and just didn't like it, so I ordered an EGR tube off a 80's Camaro about 10" with 3/4" ID. I need the flexibility to get around the Bevel Gear - it's just to awkward to work with hard tubing sections.

EGR compared to stock 19T drain, and ends I cut off another drain.

XROilDrainTube.jpg

after about an hour of finagling & tweaking, flange& drain seat silver-soldered in place

XROilDrainTube0003.jpg

comparison

XROilDrainTube0002.jpg

Tomorrow I'll know if that's the end of the heavy load/decel oil smoke.

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there ya go!!

i think while my block is torn down im going to drill out the oil drain hole in the block and weld a -12 fitting to it just to completly avoid any problem with there not being enough flow where it tapers down smaller at the block. more flow cant hurt at all. ;)

that bevel gear really makes it a pain for you tho.

im assuming that egr flex pipe is fairly rigid so you wont have a problem with the pipe moving and causing problems with the oring....?

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there ya go!!

i think while my block is torn down im going to drill out the oil drain hole in the block and weld a -12 fitting to it just to completly avoid any problem with there not being enough flow where it tapers down smaller at the block. more flow cant hurt at all. ;)

that bevel gear really makes it a pain for you tho.

im assuming that egr flex pipe is fairly rigid so you wont have a problem with the pipe moving and causing problems with the oring....?

Yeah, it's only flexible to a slight degree - it's not going to move by itself.

Your plan sounds like a good idea - just make sure the fitting is as close the block as you can get it - you don't have much height/distance ratio for the tube to drop over - the larger OD CHRA reduces it, even with the ATP adaptor. If your manifold is shaved to take the exhaust housing without one, it will be even lower.

It might even be better to drill the pan & put a large elbow there instead. I have no clearance for that with the angle drive - in fact, with this new tube, I will have to remove it first if I need to pull the angle drive - I have it sitting right along the casing contour.

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Yeah, it's only flexible to a slight degree - it's not going to move by itself.

Your plan sounds like a good idea - just make sure the fitting is as close the block as you can get it - you don't have much height/distance ratio for the tube to drop over - the larger OD CHRA reduces it, even with the ATP adaptor. If your manifold is shaved to take the exhaust housing without one, it will be even lower.

It might even be better to drill the pan & put a large elbow there instead. I have no clearance for that with the angle drive - in fact, with this new tube, I will have to remove it first if I need to pull the angle drive - I have it sitting right along the casing contour.

well thats going to become annoying when that thing is running right and keeps blowing bevel gears :P you know its coming ;)

i have a tubular top mount manifold being made right now ;)

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Fricking return lines. Such a pain.

We should sit down and try to design something.

Like a big can right underneath the turbo housing.

What oil are you running Hussain ?

10W30.

Yeah, some sort of baffled can to prevent splashback under high boost :lol: I don't want anymore stuff under there! :lol:

well thats going to become annoying when that thing is running right and keeps blowing bevel gears :P you know its coming ;)

i have a tubular top mount manifold being made right now ;)

That's very cool! Not from the IDIOT in SA, I hope? :lol:

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