lookforjoe Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 The fact that it blew out tells a whole lot about the pressure inside the crankcase.... Yes and no. Since the cap was not secured in any way other than just tapped into the cover & was a used cap, I can only assume that the fit not as secure the original. To be safe, I'm enlarging all the vent fittings & lines to closer to 1/2" ID. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bondo Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Like I keep saying. 2x -10 fittings as a minimum. That is 2 x 5/8" lines. Do it properly once rather than a dozen times. and flaco is totally right. whiteblocks seem to have crankcase pressure like whoa when you up the power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Like I keep saying. 2x -10 fittings as a minimum. That is 2 x 5/8" lines. Do it properly once rather than a dozen times. and flaco is totally right. whiteblocks seem to have crankcase pressure like whoa when you up the power. I'm going to attach a pressure gauge when I put it back together, I want to see what pressures actually arise - I can't find where anyone has actually documented crank case pressures on the whiteblocks - have you? Looking online, I thought AN -10 was approximately 1/2" I don't like the look of the AN lines, so the ports I've used will accept Volvo breather hose with 1/2" ID. I've pretty much got it wrapped up, so I'll run it as is, and if I have to, I'll redo it again What are you running your cam vents into? Without a drainback, my experience was that the oil vapors leaving the cam cover around 7K rpm were enough to fill the catch can with oil in one run! I will need to address the original cap vent, as that one is only 3/8". I looked again at all the orifice ID's in my current setup - and the catch can was the single largest restriction. I had forgotten that the inner ports were so small... ...which wasn't a real issue when it was plumbed back into the inlet - I had missed that part of the conversation where the ID of the vents needed to increase significantly when venting to atmosphere (for higher rpm/boost setups), I had simply added the filter to the vent side & left everything else as it was. In fact, I had no more oil smoke (at 20psi) after I removed the jegs separator entirely, and had the catch vent with only a regular breather filter attached. I was adding the cam vent to increase the safety margin, without going all out as you had suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bondo Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 You have to baffle the openings in the cam cover, you can't just drill big holes and stick the fittings straight on, the cams will sling a crapton of oil into the lines...The "number" of an AN fitting is the size in 16s of an inch. -8 is 8/16" is 1/2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maciekb2002 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 just get that valve cover off and come to an Island I do some charity work for friends . And damn can't believe that you car almost burned. Fire extinguisher is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorqueSteer Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Well, to be honest the drain tube was an issue, and the turbo itself was an issue. I just should have tried venting the crankcase sooner. Ah I told you months ago that this was the issue! I have almost the same turbo and had the same exact problem. Venting to atmosphere solved everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 You have to baffle the openings in the cam cover, you can't just drill big holes and stick the fittings straight on, the cams will sling a crapton of oil into the lines... The "number" of an AN fitting is the size in 16s of an inch. -8 is 8/16" is 1/2" I tried baffling the oil cap the 1st time I added a cam vent - it actually made no difference to the amount of oil that left under high boost/high rpms - especially crossing over the 7k rpm window. What kind of baffle are you adding to yours? This was one simple version I tried various staggered baffles, etc... none actually made any difference, which was why I went with a baffled can with drainback that the cam vent leeds into. I worked on my lines & fittings today - the Volvo 949701 pcv hose is 14mm ID, and I used 1/2" ID inlet fittings for the can, with 5/8" cam cover, cam can & catch can vents. The cam can vent hose is a PS suction hose from a 740, 5/8" ID You can see the cam plug retainer I made in this pic - the only 7mm bolts I had were too long, so I just added spacers until I get the correct length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 (edited) Edit: I see now, you should use some bigger lines for venting ;) Edited October 11, 2010 by perfect mdlimy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maciekb2002 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 My set up doesn't get any oil out of can. This is my diagram . I am getting plenty of oil thru can but it all comes back to block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Edit: I see now, you should use some bigger lines for venting Yeah - I think the 14mm ID lines will do fine. The next biggest restriction were the orifices in the catch can fittings - those were 5/16" at best! Ah I told you months ago that this was the issue! I have almost the same turbo and had the same exact problem. Venting to atmosphere solved everything. Sorry, I must have missed that, or was too focused on the turbo itself. The problem with direct vent to atmosphere is the required vent ID - when I simply vented my existing setup to atmosphere via the filter, I didn't realize the smaller ID lines/fittings were such an issue. My set up doesn't get any oil out of can. This is my diagram . I am getting plenty of oil thru can but it all comes back to block. Thanks for the welding offer, BTW. I may take you up on that some day. Don't feel like pulling the cam cover anytime soon, though! Yours just dump out under the car? No oil residue on the undercarriage? Every way I've tried venting any lines without some sort of filter, I get oil residue that I just don't like. The last setup I settled on dumps the vent into the left frame rail, that way I don't see it :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Spent a good part of the day going over all the fittings, cleaning up the line routing & the general layout to make sure nothing is be stressed or under tension. I have Otiker clamps coming from McmasterCarr, so I'll swap out the worm clamps when those get here. This is the layout now: All cleaned up from the fire put the exhaust heat shield back on today - should have done that days ago when I was done with the drain tube! Did some pulls today with a pressure gauge hooked up to the crankcase breather system. At 21psi boost, the max CC pressure was under 2psi. Don't know what normal is, but that seems acceptable for vent to atmosphere, no smoke, no leaks & no oil smell. Pressure is gone as soon as I let off the boost. Exhaust wrap is still smoking - the engine degreaser/cleaner is still not all rinsed out, even though I've hosed it 3-4 times today. Should be gone in another day or so. These also arrived today - ...but the two RH heims feel like they have too much 'float' - feels like there's no lining, compared to the LH versions, so Speedway is going to send me another pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Those endlinks look great - I hope you're going to put some sort of rubber boots on them for longevity in our Northeast weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnsley-Bill Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I'd also put some lube on the rose joints too as mine started to squeak because some water must have got inside the rubber boots. 2psi crankcase pressure docent sound bad at all with 21psi of boost. i hope you have sorted it now mate' I had a fire due to the turbo oil drain gasket leaking'spraying hot oil all over my GT2871 and the heat jacket took some time to put the fire out' in the end I took it off and washed it in a bucket of soapy water. Now I always carry a fire extinguisher with me as I emptied a 2KG one trying to put the fire out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I'd also put some lube on the rose joints too as mine started to squeak because some water must have got inside the rubber boots. 2psi crankcase pressure docent sound bad at all with 21psi of boost. i hope you have sorted it now mate' I had a fire due to the turbo oil drain gasket leaking'spraying hot oil all over my GT2871 and the heat jacket took some time to put the fire out' in the end I took it off and washed it in a bucket of soapy water. Now I always carry a fire extinguisher with me as I emptied a 2KG one trying to put the fire out. Glad to hear you didn't burn your car to the ground, either! The only boots I can find, seem to be the style with holes on either side which mean debris & water can get in to the boot. For $25 (for 6), I'm not sure it's of any merit, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bondo Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 See this link, post 12. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2740042 T1 race datalogged crankcase pressure on a race motor with a proper breather setup - 8600rpm and 44psi of boost. 0.1psi of crankcase pressure. You're venting to atmoshpere, therefore the crankcase pressure should be very close to atmosphere. You would benefit form more breather flow IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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