Barnsley-Bill Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 There the one's I have on mine and yea water still gets in to them so I got some clear grease and injected it in to the rubber boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flaco Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 See this link, post 12. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2740042 T1 race datalogged crankcase pressure on a race motor with a proper breather setup - 8600rpm and 44psi of boost. 0.1psi of crankcase pressure. You're venting to atmoshpere, therefore the crankcase pressure should be very close to atmosphere. You would benefit form more breather flow IMO. +1, 2 psi is low but if venting to atmosphere it shows you could use bigger lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 See this link, post 12. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2740042 T1 race datalogged crankcase pressure on a race motor with a proper breather setup - 8600rpm and 44psi of boost. 0.1psi of crankcase pressure. You're venting to atmoshpere, therefore the crankcase pressure should be very close to atmosphere. You would benefit form more breather flow IMO. Damn! To do any more, I'd have to pull the intake & increase the stock crankcase vent line from 3/8", that's now the smallest line I have extant. I guess that will have to be on the list for the next time I dismantle the intake. I haven't tried logging the cc pressure with the dipstick open - maybe I should try that to see if there is still residual pressure that way. Also I need to check cc pressure at lower boost levels, just to see if it is variable with boost. I need to record the rpm level at which the pressure occurs as well - I didn't make note of that factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Good call on the boots being a waste but maybe there is a way to put a bead of silicone around the holes? I know this is a way that some glass shops re-seal our sunroof seals when they start to leak. You probably wouldn't need anything fancy to do it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Decided to simply things Moved the secondary can back where the catch can was, and eliminated the catch can. ZERO crank pressure at any boost level setup this way. BUT..... too much oil passing out the vent - enough to cause drips of oil out the end of the frame rail. I just can't have it this way, I don't like ANY oil residue ANYWHERE in my engine bay . So, I added the CC back by the frame rail ..caused the crankcase pressure to rise to .5psi @ 21psi. The inlet is 5/8", but the vent is only 1/2". I'll fix that tomorrow, and check for oil residue & crankcase pressure under boost. I may also remove the oil cap vent & see what pressure if any I get that way, and what difference it makes to oil residue without the catch can. EDIT: Data log from today. Boost undereports by .3Kg.cm2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Did a couple of logs today .3kg/cm2 under report on boost level lowered boost in the 2nd log. Way too much oil leaving the can - I had to clean a pint off the trans & frame after these pulls. I'm going to go back to one cam cover vent until I can either get a better baffled can, or figure out why the drain back isn't up to the task. I'm thinking a nice baffled can like Russ's would be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKI-R Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Given any thought to incorporating the RN block windows? Or did you already do that? This is great fun to watch - thanks!! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Given any thought to incorporating the RN block windows? Or did you already do that? This is great fun to watch - thanks!! No, I wasn't aware of the later block windows 2 years ago when I did my motor build. At this point, I know I have zero CC pressure if I vent directly to atmosphere from my secondary breather box. The issue is the amount of oil that leaves with the vapor with 2 cam cover vents- so I know I need a better baffled can. 42draft designs looks like it has a nice baffled can: But, it's only 2 port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Looks like Spec-R.com can make a can to my specification In the mean time, I f'kd with it again today, to see if I could get it to minimal positive pressure & oil vapor. Basically, added a internal baffle to the cam cover port, adjusted the can to increase drain angle, and shortened stock breather box hose & angled it up into the can. Did a quick couple of high rpm boost runs in lower gears, and looks promising. Have to check on highway tomorrow, as that's the real test, plus I need daylight to watch the pressure gauge tucked under the wiper arm . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 plus I need daylight to watch the pressure gauge tucked under the wiper arm I was wondering how you were monitoring CC pressure... didn't think it would be like that :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I was wondering how you were monitoring CC pressure... didn't think it would be like that It's an OLD mechanical pump gauge - only goes to 10psi :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 Looks like Spec-R.com can make a can to my specification In the mean time, I f'kd with it again today, to see if I could get it to minimal positive pressure & oil vapor. Basically, added a internal baffle to the cam cover port, adjusted the can to increase drain angle, and shortened stock breather box hose & angled it up into the can. Still no good - CC pressure held @ .5psi @ 21psi boost until I shifted into 5th @ WOT & pressure jumped to 3psi. Checked the can when I got home & it was full of oil again, hence the jump in pressure. Too much oil is leaving with the vapor. I tried repositioning the can to improve drain angle, but didn't help. I need to get a better/different can that will allow the pressure to relieve, but keeps the oil from venting. I'm going to try a can like Maciek's- it's large & he has had no oil loss issues out the vent side of the can. 5/8" ID ports, 13" overall length I guess I should have left well enough alone- it was fine as it was until I added the larger cam vent!!! In the mean time, I added a drain tube running back under the car, so any oil will head out back instead of over my engine/trans/bay until I get it resolved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 So, I have determined that the system I have can support 18psi without any vent/oil loss issues. Drove it hard today, and under no circumstances did I lose any oil to the catch can, nor did the crankcase pressure ever exceed .5psi, if that. Once the new can is here & installed, I'll try higher pressure again, until then I'll just keep it at 18psi. I don't want oil spray all over the place before Volvo Open House in Rockleigh on Saturday. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 New can arrived this afternoon. so I redid the breather setup hopefully for the last time Can is the same one Maciek has used successfully. replaced the hard plastic breather box vent line w/12mm ID tube, 14mm ID Volvo (949701) pcv line for all flex sections. Left the catch can attached to the vent until I'm sure there is no oil passing out the secondary can. the cranks sensor died while I was moving stuff around - after it was running, I was just checking the routing of the cam sensor & crank sensor harnesses, since there is more space back there now, and the car died when I touched the cranks sensor (3547699). Forunately I had a spare, so no biggie. Glad it died now, & not on the road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maciekb2002 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 (edited) You made it fit. Nice. Let us know how is ventilation going . Also my can works spotless And I see that you figure that catch can is actually baffled ? I didn't know that :lol: Edited October 28, 2010 by maciekb2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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