lookforjoe Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Are you still using the stock subframe bushings? I just ordered a set of CJ's Delrin versions that I need to install ASAP! I can feel the everything move when I thrash it around turns and heavy dips on the hiway.... No, mine it tight. I'm not sold on those.I'd like to see what the life span of those is. If I replace them, I'll probably buy OEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Just checked the stock FP on 99+ and it appears to be 3.75-3.95bar per VADIS. I don't think that 4 bar is too much for the system if your lines are in good condition. I can only say what I heard, but 80% should be the max for injectors on a turbo application. I'm not holding true to that myself though as you probably know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 I may raise it to 4bar even. From the reading I've done, it seems 80% IDC is the target, to give wiggle room with 85% maximum. I'm thinking maybe I should just get Bosch 1000cc injectors, but since I really don't need to go over 7200rpm, at least not until I get my custom intake back, and the LGspeed header.... I dunno. Maybe those elements will bring the ceiling lower, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 The manifolds should bring top end VE up quite a bit. Aside from that, I've always felt it is best to go as large as you can get to idle smoothly; the lower the IDC is, the less time the injectors are spraying at the back side of the closed intake valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricF Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 No, mine it tight. I'm not sold on those.I'd like to see what the life span of those is. If I replace them, I'll probably buy OEM. Not to drag things more off topic, but I think I probably put about 30k on my old QBM delrin control arm bushings back in the day. Were still good when I sold them... Was using H&R springs and Bilstein HD's. I think those manifolds are going to make you want to run up to 8000 And using more fuel in those higher bins on the map too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bondo Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 I think those manifolds are going to make you want to run up to 8000 *Cue broken record* I still don't get why the first order of business is to crank the boost and wind it out to a telephone number. This thing could have gotten a standalone and proper tune and be making way better numbers, It underperforms and adding more oddball parts is not going to help. This thing should get a proper baseline tune at 12psi revving to 6500rpm. If it can't break 300whp at 12psi revving to 6500 it's broken. I'm not trying to downplay the work and cash being invested, but this build is just... wierd... priorites seem way off kilter. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 *Cue broken record* I still don't get why the first order of business is to crank the boost and wind it out to a telephone number. This thing could have gotten a standalone and proper tune and be making way better numbers, It underperforms and adding more oddball parts is not going to help. This thing should get a proper baseline tune at 12psi revving to 6500rpm. If it can't break 300whp at 12psi revving to 6500 it's broken. I'm not trying to downplay the work and cash being invested, but this build is just... wierd... priorites seem way off kilter. 15psi is the minimum WGA pressure. I already know it is fine at 15psi, timing will not be pulled, etc.. I also know I had better timing up top with the intake I made, for the short time I ran it. I can try & tune it for 18psi, but it feels so much better running 22, most of the time - not so much in this heat, of course. Your advise is always sound, I'm just impatient, and it always ends up costing me, one way or another. No matter what I do, I'm still stuck with no way to dyno AWD at reasonable cost, so it's still gonna be trial & error. One of these days Map Trace Logging will be enabled in TT, and I'll have more concrete data to analyze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricF Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 *Cue broken record* I still don't get why the first order of business is to crank the boost and wind it out to a telephone number. This thing could have gotten a standalone and proper tune and be making way better numbers, It underperforms and adding more oddball parts is not going to help. This thing should get a proper baseline tune at 12psi revving to 6500rpm. If it can't break 300whp at 12psi revving to 6500 it's broken. I'm not trying to downplay the work and cash being invested, but this build is just... wierd... priorites seem way off kilter. I think once Hussein has a 500 whp hardware setup (IMO basically only a turbo and injectors away at this point), and is making 400 whp, then the standalone and more conventional tuning methodology will come. I think he's having fun fabricating now, the car is plenty quick, and he does have a way to send his feedback to the engine management, even if it isn't the most ideal tuning suite for this level of hardware. I'm impatient too, and although I kind of lost interest, I was getting pretty good results with a lot of under-utilized or under-addressed aspects of my 850. It was fun though, and if I kept going I would have gotten there. Just in a little goofier sequence than most. These are Volvos after all ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 I'm wondering what level Garrett I would need to go to. I'd like to keep the full spool below 4K. Looking at a Precision PT6776H "T4/T67" T3 .63 or .82 A/R 4-bolt or 5-bolt rear outlet OR T4 .68 .81 or .96 AR rear housing v-band compressor wheel: Inducer 2.620" (67mm) Exducer 3.310" (84mm) exhaust wheel: Inducer 2.920" (74mm) Exducer 2.542" (64.5mm) H-compressor cover (.75ar) capable of 750 hp I'd really prefer to stay with internal WG, not much room with the AWD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Will spool above 4500 I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 If you're eying the Garretts, Mark was getting a reasonable amount of boost by 4000rpm with his 0.63A/R GT3582R on an older 2.3L engine, I don't recall the exact number off-hand though. The GTX3076R will flow just as much and should spool 200-400rpm sooner.. at the expense of being a really expensive turbo :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 If you're eying the Garretts, Mark was getting a reasonable amount of boost by 4000rpm with his 0.63A/R GT3582R on an older 2.3L engine, I don't recall the exact number off-hand though. The GTX3076R will flow just as much and should spool 200-400rpm sooner.. at the expense of being a really expensive turbo Hmmm... the GTX3076R has a slightly smaller compressor side than I currently run - mine is 59/76mm, but my exhaust side is 56mm, The Garrett is 60mm. Don't know how to translate trim. My exhaust side is 10cm2, or AR.73 Will spool above 4500 I guess. Do you have experience with specific Garrett models that you could share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Don't worry too much about the size of the compressor itself, compare the compressor maps. 20G, 1 kg/s = 132.3 lb/min, so the peak flow is around 42.5 lb/min The GTX3076 flow map, peak flow of about 65 lb/min The important thing to note here is how the 20G isn't really suited for boost pressure over 2.5:1, or around 20-22psi. If anything, the GTX3076R is too big, the GTX3071R is probably a better match :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Do you have experience with specific Garrett models that you could share? Only GT2871T3 and GT3071T3, both A/R .63 btw. I think those turbo's are better suited for your car than a larger A/R version. You can blow as much boost as you want but at this point you are making 17 psi power at 22 psi. You have other problems to worry about for now. Added to that your car is rather heavy so IMO it is better to build torque from low to get the mass going. Top end with mentioned "small" turbo's will be there and more than you probably will ever run with this car. A friend drove a 430 crank HP S70R with an A/R .73 GT3076 and the car was sluggish overall. The difference between 3K pull and 4K pull is just to big. Get your timing issues sorted. I said it before, don't understand why the MSD is/was needed and don't understand why you can't hold 10-12 degree of timing with your setup. Also a bit confused why you are maxing out injectors at this point. car should be faster than it currently is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Don't worry too much about the size of the compressor itself, compare the compressor maps. 20G, 1 kg/s = 132.3 lb/min, so the peak flow is around 42.5 lb/min The GTX3076 flow map, peak flow of about 65 lb/min The important thing to note here is how the 20G isn't really suited for boost pressure over 2.5:1, or around 20-22psi. If anything, the GTX3076R is too big, the GTX3071R is probably a better match Mark - I have a Garrett 60-1 compressor, not the 20g, with the TD05 hotside. Only GT2871T3 and GT3071T3, both A/R .63 btw. I think those turbo's are better suited for your car than a larger A/R version. You can blow as much boost as you want but at this point you are making 17 psi power at 22 psi. You have other problems to worry about for now. Added to that your car is rather heavy so IMO it is better to build torque from low to get the mass going. Top end with mentioned "small" turbo's will be there and more than you probably will ever run with this car. A friend drove a 430 crank HP S70R with an A/R .73 GT3076 and the car was sluggish overall. The difference between 3K pull and 4K pull is just to big. Get your timing issues sorted. I said it before, don't understand why the MSD is/was needed and don't understand why you can't hold 10-12 degree of timing with your setup. Also a bit confused why you are maxing out injectors at this point. car should be faster than it currently is. OK. I'll focus on the timing with it as is. I don't know why the injectors are maxxing out by 7200rpm. And yes, it should be faster - seems to be the story from the beginning I wonder what if anything the ME4.4 altitude sensor & frame knock acceleration sensor effect the system - ME4.3 don't have either of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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