BlackBeast Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 I guess I reached the limit of the stock pistons - this isn't the one that had the damage from the valve dropping... Did you do any mods to the top of the block to stop it flexing between each bore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maciekb2002 Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 damn .That is actually hard to believe . How many miles since you build bottom end. probably dents from meeting the valves wasn't helpful too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Did you do any mods to the top of the block to stop it flexing between each bore? No, I didn't, I'll do that on the next block damn .That is actually hard to believe . How many miles since you build bottom end. probably dents from meeting the valves wasn't helpful too About 40K since I built the motor, so not too bad considering the abuse it has taken, but still....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeast Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 No, I didn't, I'll do that on the next block About 40K since I built the motor, so not too bad considering the abuse it has taken, but still....... Surprised it lasted as long as it did without filling in the blanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 For some reason I sense a bit of underlying joy in the fact that you get to build something better But still.... that does suck. I cryo treated OEM pistons ect, so Im hoping that will aid in what they can handle. Getting the block, crank, rods, pistons ect ect cryo'd might be a good idea for the new build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jardim Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 And when you start going north of 400hp, its good to sleeve these aluminum blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 For some reason I sense a bit of underlying joy in the fact that you get to build something better But still.... that does suck. I cryo treated OEM pistons ect, so Im hoping that will aid in what they can handle. Getting the block, crank, rods, pistons ect ect cryo'd might be a good idea for the new build. Sure - it keeps me busy I'd rather have done it on my terms, but hey, I think it was inevitable something would break, since I have kept upping the ante. Someone else mentioned cryo treating everything - not sure though - there's certainly nowhere local, and I'm not sure I want to get involved with shipping the block, etc, all over the country... I have am '04 2.3 HPT block lined up, I should be able to get it in February, then move on from there - bore seams filled, new pistons, bearings, etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maciekb2002 Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Was only 2.3 HPT block mounted in c70s . If I am not mistaking s60 were all 2.4 + Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Sure - it keeps me busy I'd rather have done it on my terms, but hey, I think it was inevitable something would break, since I have kept upping the ante. Someone else mentioned cryo treating everything - not sure though - there's certainly nowhere local, and I'm not sure I want to get involved with shipping the block, etc, all over the country... I have am '04 2.3 HPT block lined up, I should be able to get it in February, then move on from there - bore seams filled, new pistons, bearings, etc.. All I can say is with the weekend track events racing the Vettes over the years, everyone I know that cryo treated the motors will never look back.The motors run cooler and last longer, as does the brakes ect. Most guys tear down after a season, now they run 2-3 seasons. These guys are in Westbury NY. http://www.cryosciencetechnologies.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Maciek - the block is coming from an '04 HPT C70 All I can say is with the weekend track events racing the Vettes over the years, everyone I know that cryo treated the motors will never look back.The motors run cooler and last longer, as does the brakes ect. Most guys tear down after a season, now they run 2-3 seasons. These guys are in Westbury NY. http://www.cryoscien...chnologies.com/ That's not far at all, thanks for that! I'm gonna have to do some reading. Does the treating get done after or before the block is honed/bored? I'm assuming after - but doesn't the treatment affect the bore dimensions in any way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thunderbirdsc Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Treatment wouldn't effect the dimensions. Basically you are super cooling the metal to force the remaining austenite into martensite in the crystal structure of the material. Normally this process will increase strength and hardness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 (edited) Maciek - the block is coming from an '04 HPT C70 That's not far at all, thanks for that! I'm gonna have to do some reading. Does the treating get done after or before the block is honed/bored? I'm assuming after - but doesn't the treatment affect the bore dimensions in any way? Im not 100% sure with the before or after. Give those guys a call and drill em with any questions you got. Ask them for proof or feed back. Heres where I go http://www.cryo-ice.net/ I know the owner and his son. They have some nice info on the site if that helps. Also note that alot of racing teams, Nascar ect, are using this but staying hush hush about it. Edited January 8, 2012 by dublin14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Valves have plenty of space when set in the correct position. Why not order non VVT style cams and use the non VVT gears? much more solid and also better fixed construction... Since the motor is coming out for bottom end work, I just conversed with Jan @ Enem, and he is going to send me a set of replacement Y21 cams, with the solid (Non-VVT) gear design, so I can use the early gears & not worry about the torque required with VVT hub design. He did say they have revised the design so that the slotted end is dowelled in place, instead of just pressed on. Switching to the early gear will also make it easier to setup the cams at the lift they specify - I can mark the gears themselves. While the motor is out, I will also address: the alternator lower bolt/breather box issue redo my secondary can in aluminum port the exhaust housing somewhat install the KU single mass flywheel & Spec clutch Cryo treatment? maybe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Mac Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 I would love a set of cams for an RN head that utilize the old style cam gears! They're so much easier to set! Since the motor is coming out for bottom end work, I just conversed with Jan @ Enem, and he is going to send me a set of replacement Y21 cams, with the solid (Non-VVT) gear design, so I can use the early gears & not worry about the torque required with VVT hub design. He did say they have revised the design so that the slotted end is dowelled in place, instead of just pressed on. Switching to the early gear will also make it easier to setup the cams at the lift they specify - I can mark the gears themselves. While the motor is out, I will also address: the alternator lower bolt/breather box issue redo my secondary can in aluminum port the exhaust housing somewhat install the KU single mass flywheel & Spec clutch Cryo treatment? maybe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jardim Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Jardim besides tune is your head stock to be able to run up to 7500? I see you've done injectors and and a tune to support fuel and ignition that high but curious to see what else you have done to reach those RPMs. I'm on a Rica stg 3 tune white's and a 16T I haven't tried to reach the rev limiter but I assume there is now way my war would go another 1000rpm over stock. BRB, LOLing forever. hahahahhaahha. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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