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Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens


lookforjoe

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Would the newer style accessory bracket plus the corresponding alternator/ac compressor in addition to the power steering pump you already have give you any more space for the manifold? Just a thought in case you can't get the new alternator to fit.

And as usual, great work!

Thanks. It's possible that the newer style setup would change the manifold/alt relationship, but I already have the custom reverse rotation higher output alternator, so I'm just going to adapt this bracket to the newer block. I would also have to buy a new AC compressor, and my AC is crispy, so I'd rather not tamper with that. That reminds me, I have to find the threads were people on here already did that :D

Since I have more time than when I first installed the manifold, I can always shave the lower front edge & have it re-welded, if necessary.

Any reason why you dont wan't the RN crank? my guess is you want more torque from a heavier crank.

Several people have said that the heavier crank is better, so I'll stick with that.

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If you've got a higher output alternator, have you considered going to an electric power steering pump? :)

The later pump is already so compact, I don't see any real advantage - it would still have to mount in the same spot - I have no room anywhere else!

Trying to find a post where someone mounted the earlier ancillary bracket to the RN block - I pm'd a number of guys who've done RN motor swaps, but I can't recall who specifically did it...

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Trying to find a post where someone mounted the earlier ancillary bracket to the RN block - I pm'd a number of guys who've done RN motor swaps, but I can't recall who specifically did it...

Pretty sure it was Kristian, look through his thread.

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How do you plan on routing the belt to make the alt spin the opposite direction then? Or am I just missing something obvious? :arob::lol:

I modified the brackets for the later style setup, back when I did the head install. It is simpler & doesn't require the extra idler

XRcustomIPSmount.jpg

Belt is dual ribbed to take care of the alternator. '99 - the alt spins the opposite way to -'98, that's why I had the reverse rotation alt made, even though the old one actually works fine spinning backwards; there's plenty of airflow with transverse mount.

routing:

XRB5245TBeltRouting2.jpg

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ok...so that's stock volvo, correct?

also, on the new setup, what compression ratio are you aiming for?

I presume, I don't know for sure.

I'm staying with stock 8.5:1 compression. EDIT: Wiseco's are 9.1:1

I worked on the ancillary bracket mounting on the newer block this evening.

I drilled the old bracket for the upper center bolt. You can see the bolt passing behind the bracket. I'll weld a boss on the backside to support it. Ground the inner lower edge so I can add a boss to use the later inner mount.

IMG_0220.jpg

I decided I want the aluminum upper section instead of the clunky steel setup, so I cut it carefully off a '99 bracket. Checked the offset based on the steel bracket I made, and set it up to be welded to the lower bracket

IMG_0224.jpg

have to weld a tab to the underside forward PS pump tab, to accept the outer alternator bolt

IMG_0223.jpg

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Worked on the intake/alternator clearance issue. Basically, I ground down the new alternator casing & plastic rear cover somewhat, and filed the edge of the intake a little.

IMG_0226.jpg

rear cover back on

IMG_0229.jpg

overall ancillary setup (belt goes under tensioner, not over, I just put it like that so I could clamp it in place)

IMG_0228.jpg

workspace in my basement - too cold to work in the unheated rickety old garage I have

IMG_0231.jpg

That's all I got done today...

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I just spent the last two nights reading this whole thread. Very entertaining and informative. The whole time however, I wanted to ask about your bore job for the OS1 pistons you were using. I too used OS1 Mahles and have been very unhappy with the results, namely, I feel my machine shop didn't bore round holes or used bad specs. I hope you will monitor the results before you assemble the new block. I feel much of my timing pull issues are related to piston slap and I wonder if that hasn't been problem for you in getting the tune set up. I also imagine your excessive blow by might be a result of the same problem. I am no machinist but without some way to keep the free standing bores in line during the bore work, you end up with odd shaped bores. If you are going to weld/block the tops of the cylinders, do it before the machine work.

I have had three different machine shops do head work and each of them have ruined several valve seals by mashing them to oblivion. I have redone plenty of seals.

I have been trying to find a flange for my TD05 20G, like yours with the welded wastegate plug, but have had no success. In looking at your latest pics, it appears that you used the TD06 flange and slotted the holes. Is that correct? I want to unplug the wastegate and run a divorced setup as well, may have to fab flange.

I have an 01 LPT motor waiting to go in the R and because of my machine shop jitters, I am going to put it in without a teardown. If that fails, I will grab a 2.3 block and use my already balanced/forged/OS1 bottom end and move on.

I am excited to use the LPT motor since 98% of my driving is at 4200 ft. I feel the slightly higher CR will be less "soft" off idle.

I am very interested in your intake and am considering using the RN intake runners to create something like yours. I enjoy watching your process of need/design/build. hats off to you for boldly going etc.

Finally, I haven't driven an X/19 in years but I envy you yours!

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