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Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens


lookforjoe

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Rerouted the vac pump outlet to the main can, and closed off the cam cover vents. Had actual oil in the catch can routed the other way, no good. This way, I have almost 3 inHg vac draw on the crankcase. You can feel it at the dip[stick
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This (T5 sport seat) arrived today. Waiting on the other set before I pull the fronts apart to re-upholster
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and... what it's like going in & out the driveway with the car lowered as it is
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GM pump died today. Doesn't like to run continuously. I had to drive 60 miles round trip today, and the pump died about 40 miles in. Overheated & blew the fuse.

Reinstalled the Ford pump, having repaired the base & resealed the base/housing juncture

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This pump only pulls 1 inHg, but it doesn't run anywhere near as hot as the GM version.

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I suggested an airpump to help with crankcase ventilation a couple of years ago (check page 40 of this thread). Hope it works out. Does the pump need to operate continuously or is crankcase pressure only a problem when you are in boost? Maybe you could wire it into a boost pressure switch like this one http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=09&feature_key=Boost_Switch,parts,smart_injection

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I suggested an airpump to help with crankcase ventilation a couple of years ago (check page 40 of this thread). Hope it works out. Does the pump need to operate continuously or is crankcase pressure only a problem when you are in boost? Maybe you could wire it into a boost pressure switch like this one http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=09&feature_key=Boost_Switch,parts,smart_injection

forgot all about that period. I don't have any crankcase pressure under any conditions without the pump, but.. I don't have vacuum either.

I have the pump set to run continuously once the engine is running & car is charging (delay via AC relay). I am hesitant to have it run only under boost, since the pump creates a restriction in the breather system when not running. The other advantage to the pump is that it heats the air, so like the PTC, helps separate the condensate & prevents buildup in cold weather.

I had considered using that exact switch, I already have one controlling the WMI onset. What I could do, is re-install the cam cover vent so that even if the pump is off, the crankcase will have unrestricted venting. Then add the pressure switch to engage the pump as soon as it goes into boost (1psi).

EDIT: went ahead & bought one, it's worth a shot, has to help improve pump life.

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New custom adjustable cam gears in the works

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designed to not interfere with the cam seal flange area of the head

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This way, it is not necessary to stress the cam/cam gear mounting bolts every time I feel the need to tweak the settings.

If anyone else is interested, Miller's Mule is the company making them. They specialize in Fiat/Lancia/BMW, but will make all kinds of custom parts such as this.

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Adding a fuel pressure sensor for data logging - this will go in the end of my modified fuel rail

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need more wires - so I added another 10 wires through the main fuse box conduit (the other conduit is already full)

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ran a 5/32 vac/press line in there as well - for the crankcase vacuum logging

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Installed the Fuel Pressure Sender

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made a 5V power supply to feed the sensor, ground & signal go to the Innovate SSI-4 for data logging.

Added a boost pressure switch to the crankcase vacuum pump circuit. Set to 2psi onset (lowest value)

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Vac source from the intake manifold. Switch interrupts the pump ground.

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Reinstalled the cam vent, with a check valve, to allow breathing when the pump is not running.

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revised diagram (pressure switch interrupts pump ground, not relay as shown)

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With the pressure switch, and check valves, I may be able to switch back to the higher volume GM pump

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Previous setup

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Diagram of the modded fuel rail

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phenolic spacers to limit heat soak

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IAT sensor wiring

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IC piping

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Revised inlet piping next

XRinletPiping325.jpg

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You work for NASA? Amazing stuff man, don't know how you keep finding room in there!!!!!

One more thing what is your hp goal and how is the bevel gear holding up to the power?

I'm a public school art educator.

It would be nice to see 450WHP, maybe a little more. I need to get a couple of dyno pulls before I switch over to VEMs, just to see what I have attained with the limitations of ME4.4

The AWD holds up just fine. What kills the BG is overloading it off the line (reference: ohfuckibrokesomething on YT) or lack of proper tire maintenance.

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