lookforjoe Posted March 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Dropped the subframe yesterday removed trans, removed Spec clutch & KU flywheel. Left the Angle Drive in place, just tie wrapped it to the water pipe. had flywheel machined for .353" offset, so I can remove the offset shims I had added last year. Hopefully that's the end of the clutch issues. Installed the M66 AWD with the Quaife installed. Royal pita in the driveway, but got it in. Both hands maneuvering the trans while my foot/leg is adjusting the jack height & placement ;-) Just have to reinstall the subframe and steering rack tomorrow, and bottom everything up. Another issue though, I bent a wheel on the PIP Saturday night coming home from a High School play - hit a big frickin' pothole ;-( Got a new wheel coming. I'm going to file a claim with the DOT, even though they suck at claims like this. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Let the fun begin Thanks for the heads up on the rustoleum silver paint, shot my master cylinder with it and its the perfect color, gonna do an etch on the block and spray it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 Let the fun begin Thanks for the heads up on the rustoleum silver paint, shot my master cylinder with it and its the perfect color, gonna do an etch on the block and spray it! You're welcome! Got the subframe prepped (rack in place, control arms on. IPD bar bushings have a fresh coat of aqualube) ready to go back under. Motor trans BG all buttoned up, right axle back in, ready for subframe and steering rack insert into column joint- rack centered as best possible to align notch/flat landing with column joint bolt hole. Royal PITA that is. Everything subsequently reattached underside - ball joints, trans mount & bracket, Both engi e mounts, lower torque mount, rack secured to subframe, subframe large bolts secured, charcoal canister line reattached, end links back on tie rods set based on threads visible on old rack, DP secured to rear section, engine height set (the trans mount height is adjustable on AWD). Trans filled with approx 2.5 quarts of redline HD shockproof. Filled through the detent bolt on top of the shifter assy. Makes life easier. Sorry, Mark - I didn't think of this when you contacted me earlier (rolleyes) Ran out of daylight. So, if I can't button it up in the AM ( which is uniikely- I need to fabricate a shifter cable bracket for an M66 conversion in CA), then we'll take the Mustang on our weekend road trip to Saratoga Springs. I need that mineral bath soak - my body is aching from the working on the back in the driveway routine :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 About the same pain in the rear that taking an M47 trans and overdrive out of a 244 Turbo. NOt quite as heavy perhaps, but still a royal pain. You have my sympathy, done too many grage floor jobs where I was worn out afterwards, but the pleasure of having done it myself eventually arrived, about two days later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Hussein: Lookiing for the thread and photo where you show the various versions of the water pipe fir dufferent years. Can you point me to that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAYWALKER Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 question. won't it be easier if you pull the engine and transmission as a whole unit from the top? i have a manual swap for my s70 but don't know which way is best. stabbing the clutch will be a pita. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 When I had my clutch replaced on my S60, the mechanic wanted to take it out the bottom. Dropped the cross member, and we had it out quickly. Only real change from Hussein is that he disconnected the steering rack from the crossmember, and used bungee cords to keep it from disconnecting from the steering column. Having taken the engine out of an 850 wagon, similar to Hussein's V70, I can say that out the bottom is probably the best way, by far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Easier and quicker to drop just the trans out the bottom. Especially with shop access, it's a breeze. No reason to touch the cooling system, etc. I would have left the rack suspended as Al indicated, if I wasn't replacing it. These are designed so that the input shaft doesn't align with the crank, so even if the disc isn't perfectly centered, it stills goes in pretty easy. I just eyeball the disc when I install the clutch. You don't even have to remove the subframe entirely, but it gives much more room to move around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAYWALKER Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 i wish i have access to a lift. thanks for the advice. now i just need to get a engine support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Harbor Freight sells an engine brace that will work. It can be done without a lift, but it is definitely easier with one. In the Seattle area, we have a place called Self Service Garage, and it has a 2 post, a 4 post, and a scissors jack typ lift, and you can do your own work and simply pay an hourly rate. Need to do this on a daily rate, because it does take time. Still cheaper than trying to buy your own lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 i wish i have access to a lift. thanks for the advice. now i just need to get a engine support. I just bought mine this past week off Amazon - free shipping - it arrived Tuesday. Astro Pneumatic 5820 I went for the Amazon credit card, which gave a $50 coupon, so I actually paid about $15 for it. The support hooks are thinner gauge than I would prefer, but I can always buy slightly heavier hooks. It certainly did the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Put the shifter bracket back in this afternoon - adjusted cable offset to center the cable throw Adjuster slider is made from 740 alternator tensioner arm. After that, I was able to put the rest of the inlet and intake piping back in, along with the breather cans & vacuum pump. All that is left is to get the alignment done & bed the newly machined flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 (edited) Looking forward to your impressions Edited April 2, 2013 by BlackT5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I love your adaptations of other Volvo parts for totally different purposes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 I love your adaptations of other Volvo parts for totally different purposes Thanks, Andy! Set the toe correctly on Wed., so I can at least put some miles on the machined flywheel to bed it. No leaks after 100 miles, but couple of clunks up front - somehow the upper shock lock nut loosened, so the strut was rattling in the heim joint - fortunately not enough to damage anything. Had to lower the trans mount slightly - at full level the top of the outer casing was tapping the inner frame rail over heavy bumps - fixed that. Replacement Motegi arrived yesterday, so I mounted and balanced that - feel safer driving at highway speeds now. Filed a claim with the NYSDOT for the wheel & mounting costs - cheap at $184 total. Enkeis M52 arrived this afternoon. Gary (yellowT5) already bought a set , so it's known they clear BBK w/o spacers (17x7.5 ET38) hub rings with 62.1 ID included free of charge from the tire rack. Went with 50 series to keep rolling diameter same or slightly larger than the 235/40x18's - don't want the wagon to ride any lower than it is - 235/45x17's would have dropped it another 1/4" or so. I'm right on the cusp of scraping over every speed bump, and barly squeaking on to the alignment rack (and the car wash), so don't want any more drop. Not going to install them until after full alignment and flywheel bedding - I'm pretty confident that the wheel hop is gone - since it only required part load to induce - I'm pretty sure I would have felt some of it, where it still present. Anyway, I'll know for sure in a couple hundred miles. I'll put some miles on tomorrow going to the meet in Norwalk CT with a few others. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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