lookforjoe Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Good luck tomorrow H. Put down some big numbers we all can proud of! Videos are good also.Gonna be lame. Can't run even 18psi without clutch slip over 4k rpm. Tried at three settings on the way home, maintaining steady 4k in 4th, then tipping in to WOT. Clutch slips prettying immediately I hit 43-4400 Rpms. Turned off the Apexi to run at WG only (15psi), that it will hold. So, I'll Dyno at WG, then try a pull at 17psi & see what happens. I just need some numbers to give the Spec rep to help figure out what if anything can be done staying with Spec products. What clutch are you using? eDIT: just checked your showroom thread - Bully full face. I'll have to look at their stuff again. EDIT: heard back from TTV - they have high output multiple plate setups, but nothing street friendly. They are developing road racing clutches but six months away from production at this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamdrives Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 What boost are you going to run? Unless you are concerned about frying the clutch, you might as well go as high as you can. Even if it slips a little bit it will be cool to see what the car is nearly capable of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 What boost are you going to run? Unless you are concerned about frying the clutch, you might as well go as high as you can. Even if it slips a little bit it will be cool to see what the car is nearly capable of. Base WG pressure (14-15psi), and go up from there. Problem is that it's more than a little slip, and without a rev limit AND someone else operating the vehicle, I can't risk another over-rev situation. See what happens. If I can get two pulls without slippage, 2-3psi apart, it shouldn't be hard to extrapolate HP in similar increments - with the old setup when dyno'd, every additional psi equated to 12WHP. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Noticed you said you got hub rings from Tire Rack for the new Enkeis. Are they plastic or aluminum? If plastic, they need to send you the aluminum "Stepped" hub rings so they actually fit over the 65.1 portion of the hub. The diameter closest to the rotor is smaller than 65.1 and the plastic rings will slap around, not doing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Dyno from today. Limited to approx 18psi on 2nd pull, had to hold off from WOT until over 4500 or instant slip. 1st pull was at WG pressure - about 14psi Just over 400AWD WHP. They said if you want to compare to DynoJet, etc, you'd have to add approx 18%, as this one doesnt apply all kinds of correction factors to bump the numbers. What was interesting is that the torque split F-R is closer to 50-50 than I imagined Noticed you said you got hub rings from Tire Rack for the new Enkeis. Are they plastic or aluminum? If plastic, they need to send you the aluminum "Stepped" hub rings so they actually fit over the 65.1 portion of the hub. The diameter closest to the rotor is smaller than 65.1 and the plastic rings will slap around, not doing anything. ] Thanks, man! So same thing happened to you? I haven't even tried fitting them, with the other ongoing issues... 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkaplan Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) hehe awesome. I am sure the torque split would be much lower if you didn't have as much power as it was probably sending more to the rear to keep the front wheels from slipping. Edited April 23, 2013 by blkaplan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Makes sense The guy at Xenocron shot Dyno footage - its on their FB page - cant figure out hue to link it here from my iPhone .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod'sT-5 Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Nice video, great numbers !! Showed 408 HP You have reason to be Proud Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotpantslovebug Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Great numbers, can't wait to see what VEMS and a capable clutch will yeild. Inspiring work nonetheless! For the lazy https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=652498304765387&set=vb.100549487057&type=2&theater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Congrats! Over 400hp with a semi-broken car! Looks like you found a great dyno shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Mac Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Nice video, great sound track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Enkei M2's ET38 225/50x17's Had to roll the fenders more, cut back the liners, and raise the rear 1/2" to minimize the rub. Was hoping more tire/ less wheel might help with the wheel hop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 Lowered the engine relative to the subframe today. XC's come with a spacer (almost 1/2") under the crank mount, and have a height adjustable trans mount. Not sure why I didn't do this years ago, I don't need the extra ground clearance. So, I removed the spacer, and wired the mount to limit lift while I was there - used a 740 eBrake cable - the one that always seizes on those. Had to readjust the torque mounts, IC piping, and DP to get proper clearance. No problem with trans or BG bump stop clearance. Edit: if you notice the lithium lube - I wedged an interference fit aluminum stock between the fore and aft bushings collars and the subframe - if I'm getti g toe in/out from excessive torque, this will limit the bushing and therefore arm deflection. Not a permanent solution, but at least will help point to or eliminate bushings as a probable cause of hop. Once the rain stops, I can test it out. Replaced the front BBK pads while I was in there, and also the drain tube oring and gasket - I was getting seepage that tracks along the carrierblock seam - this was the cure last time (when I was convinced I hadn't used sufficient anaerobic sealer). Hard to see, cos the BG is right in the way of visual check - so a mirror is required to even gauge whether there appears to be wetness around the tube base. While I was under, I noticed that the Howe Racing rad is now seeping from both left and right sides. No way to tell without pulling it whether its tank - tubes leak or header tank seams. Royal PITA either way. I have to deal with this in the next week, I'm not missing Carlisle in the wagon again. Edit: Also rerouted the tertiary breather can back into the inlet tract - cant take the CC stank - it gives me a chronic headache. Since there is 99% water vapor by the time it gets throught the tertiary can, I'm hopeful no oil of consequence will make it through. I can always plumb the Provent this way if need be. I have logged 92.9Kpa under boost, as opposed to 99.9 continuous when VTA. The tubing is stock Volvo SAS to airbox, cut down just a little to fit perfectly :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkaplan Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 did you check the wheel hop situation with the modified engine mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 That spacer is not just for the XC, all the AWD have that spacer, even my R. I recall Yang removed his after he did a FWD manual swap on his R to level the engine. On the drivers side the XC have a spacer above the rubber mount and aluminum bracket for the motor. Where my R doesn't have it and the bracket sits right on the mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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