lookforjoe Posted May 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 did you check the wheel hop situation with the modified engine mounts? Not yet - the weather has cleared today, so with dry pavement I should be able to test it on the way home. If the hop is gone, it will likely slip instead, that's the way it's gone every other time ..... That spacer is not just for the XC, all the AWD have that spacer, even my R. I recall Yang removed his after he did a FWD manual swap on his R to level the engine. On the drivers side the XC have a spacer above the rubber mount and aluminum bracket for the motor. Where my R doesn't have it and the bracket sits right on the mount. I figured all AWD. My left mount bracket is designed to sit on the mount shaft, up against the larger shouldered adjuster nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted May 10, 2013 Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 I am pretty sure I replaced my side mount and it didn't have spacer... but I could be wrong. Now I'm going to have to check. Nice numbers, H! Powerful car is powerful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 I am pretty sure I replaced my side mount and it didn't have spacer... but I could be wrong. Now I'm going to have to check. Nice numbers, H! Powerful car is powerful. Thanks. If yours is an AWD , the spacer should be there. Set a level on the cam Cover to see if your motor is level if there is no spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 So, the clutch is back out, the blown PTE6262 is on it's way back to Precision, and the leaking radiator is on it's way back to Howe for warranty repair. pics of the flywheel, disc & PP PP - fingers look even flywheel that was only machined a month or so ago lots of clutch powder all over PP surface both sides of the disc thickness Rad seepage Blown Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmcarz Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 It's always something isn't it? Looks like another trip to Carlisle in the X19........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 I always have to fall back to my reliable Italian car also when the Volvo breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Awe shucks. You will overcome, we all know this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Took some measurements today. Stack height from back of block to tip of fingers is 82.55 (3.25") (I held a straight edge across the clutch, set the extension on the block surface, and marked the extension where it intersected the straight edge) Distance from bell housing to compressed t/o bearing face is 79.375 (3.125") T/o bearing has approx .75"/19mm travel (extended T/O distance = 2.375"). Which means the pp fingers are already pushed in 3.175mm (1/8") before anything happens. As this clutch wears, the fingers will rise further, since its not self adjusting like the factory DM clutch. So, I figuring the problem is once again the flywheel - since the total height is no good - and the clutch is specifically intended for DM applications. Can't see what else could be the problem. Disc is worn approx .889mm - down to almost 8mm from 9mm original thickness, about 50% worn due to the slippage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Took some measurements today. Stack height from back of block to tip of fingers is 82.55 (I held a straight edge across the clutch, set the extension on the block surface, and marked the extension where it intersected the straight edge) Distance from bell housing to compressed t/o bearing face is 79.375 T/o bearing has approx .75"/19mm travel. Which means the pp fingers are already pushed in 1/8" before anything happens. As this clutch wears, the fingers will rise further, since its not self adjusting like the factory DM clutch. So, I figuring the problem is once again the flywheel - since the total height is no good - and the clutch is specifically intended for DM applications. Can't see what else could be the problem. Disc is worn approx .889mm - down to almost 8mm from 9mm original thickness, about 50% worn due to the slippage. H... sorry to hear about your on going issues.... Clutch, wheel hop, turbo, radiator... I truly admire your persistance and determination... I'm sure you'll have it all squared away in no time... as for the issues you've been having with your flywheel, would it have been any wiser to see if you could have sourced the special flywheel (DM to SM) in conjunction with a clutch that is suitable for your applicaton, vs trying to source everything separetly??? Maybe see if Kalmar has any options for a clutch in your anticipate power range??? oh and a belated congrats on the amazing numbers... not too shabby... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkaplan Posted May 17, 2013 Report Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) yep, sounds like what i was suggesting earlier... if that disc has any significant preload the torque capacity will be significantly reduced. Is there enough meat on the flywheel to machine the mounting surface and make it thinner? Edited May 17, 2013 by blkaplan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 Is there enough meat on the flywheel to machine the mounting surface and make it thinner? I considered this. I would need to remove at least 1/4", maybe more. Seems like a substantial amount, considering what a bitch it was to remove just .050". I may just get a complete new setup - looks like I can get an AP racing clutch and flywheel from Don @ KU for about the same as buying a new spec flywheel and new disc - I would still need to deal with the hot spotted PP on top of that. I haven't heard back from Spec yet, so I don't know if they are willing to work with me at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkaplan Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 what were you using to machine it? with the right equipment it shouldn't be hard to cut away 1/4" IF theres is enough meat to remove it safely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 what were you using to machine it? with the right equipment it shouldn't be hard to cut away 1/4" IF theres is enough meat to remove it safely The hot-spotting/hardening of the billet steel made it much harder to machine than a cast flywheel would be. The machine shop used a mill for the rough cuts then the flywheel grindstone for the finish. Once I have the flywheel off, I can take measurements. I'll take the spec PP to him & see if the surface can be trimmed. There are apparently at least one or two guys in NY who may be able to put together a good clutch for me - so, I need to investigate that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkaplan Posted May 20, 2013 Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 (edited) If you get the right grade carbide and endmill geometry you can cut even the hardest steels. Or it would be a good job to do on lathe with a ceramic style insert if its really hard. Edited May 20, 2013 by blkaplan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsterns Posted May 20, 2013 Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 I'd say the shop did it right, when I ran a shop, the only way to really deal with hot spots is to grind them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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