lookforjoe Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Taking a break from other stuff (installing modified LH2.2 in my X1/9 before the built motor goes back in) Serpentine belt mod using some Volvo parts is complete, also. Beats the three standard v/belt setup Fabricated the new 3/8" hard lines and quick connects for the sending unit going in. All fittings silver soldered. Was a pita to bend the 3/8 line without kinking, and to ensure the offset angle on the new one is near as dammit the same as the original, so it sits properly on the base of the gas tank floor Stock lines I cut off & drilled out the pass through. The electrical junctions are a press fit, with a rubber seal and a stat washer to retain from the inside. Not hard to remove and reuse if suitable care is taken. Next I have to replace the pass through 5/16" fittings for the ejector sender installed in the left saddle 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 I was wondering if you could help me out quick with your oil cooler mod you originally started this thread with lol. I'm looking into doing it on my 96 850 and had a few questions. I'm assuming this wasn't an RN engine you did it to as otherwise it should have had it already, so what did you do about the stock lines that leave the engine to go to the rad/cooler, do they get re-routed to the cooler on the pan or do they get blocked off? I'm a little confused about the assembly, I was under the impression that housing was part of the pump assembly. As far as parts, I would assume pan and pickup tube, cooler, lines, rear water pipe turbo lines, and all the seals, but what about the oil pump or water pump? Is most of this stuff bolt on? Just want to make sure I won't be getting in over my head if I want to try and do this. Thanks Billy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 (edited) the RN pan deletes the connections to the radiator, everything is self contained. The N pan has a thermostat in it that directs the oil to the cooler when it gets to a certain temperature. This is missing, and you simply need to forget about the oil line connections to the radiator. You also need the correct water pipes. there are 2 that you need. The one from the water pump to the radiator that goes around the back of the engine, and the one that has the drain cock on it. both have a tube for the water lines to connect to the oil cooler. Hussein has pictures of the various versions of those water lines in one of his posts. Edited May 12, 2014 by wizzard_al 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Perfect that's exactly the Info I needed thank you very much 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 I had my engine out when I did mine. But what I have read from others it is a PITA to do in the car. Its doable, but is a chore. You have to remove everything on the exhaust side of the engine and be able to wiggle the main coolant pipe out of the block. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 The difficulty with the water pipe depends on the version - the later pipes with the longer water feed pipe to the oil cooler being the most difficult as there isn't much room to pivot the water pipe when working it into the water pump housing. Plenty of vaseline on the housing o-ring helps. Working on Aerocatch latches - after looking at Trent's thread again Latch will go about here - with outer edge closely aligned with fender line, which also closely aligns the inner edge with the hood ridge. Having the catch set so the centerline of the catch aligns with the hood/fender seam just looks wrong. catch will be set so that opening for pin aligns with stock catch center - 6.5" front front edge, 3.25" in from fender edge Since my battery is side mounted, I don't have the room to make hood pin brackets like Trents - so mine will be like this: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hood latches are looking good! Thanks for the info on the water pipes, doing it in the car won't be as issue for me as the head is completely off the car at the moment so I should have plenty of room to get the pipe out. I'll watch for an earlier model year one then anyway, I'm assuming I will need one from a turbo car for the turbo connections, there's an S60 NA in the wreckers by my place that I was hoping to get it from but maybe I'll just get the pan and cooler etc and get the main pipe later. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 You need to look for '99 or '00 S70 turbo cars, I think Hussein said those were the closes to what you want, so that you don't have to fabricate all new water lines to the turbo that that are different in length from the originals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Brackets are ready, now I 'just' have to cut up the hood... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Cut the hood for the catches the past two afternoons. Finished up the install & drilled the mounting plate holes this evening. Holes are painted & trimmed, Catch has a thin bead of Volvo sealant under the lip. remove underside catch install pin w/bracket & check contact area in hood align catch with fender/ hood seam rough cut check fit & catch operation drill mount plate holes & paint. Use butyl to retain nuts in mount plate installed and done 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Applause!!! And more Applause!!! Great job H!!! Clean install on the latches!!! Coming along nicely, I see... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Did you have to put in a larger coolant overflow reservoir when you upgraded the rad? I'm starting to get overflow during hot soak with the larger capacity, and I assume the overflow is the same size for Manual/Auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Did you have to put in a larger coolant overflow reservoir when you upgraded the rad? I'm starting to get overflow during hot soak with the larger capacity, and I assume the overflow is the same size for Manual/Auto. What type of rad do you have? There is no reason a larger expansion tank would be required - there is no change in expansion rate of the coolant... I am using Evans Waterless since last August, but didn't see any increase in coolant expansion in the reservoir with the 3" core and standard coolant prior to that...My wagon at Carlisle On the way down 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamdrives Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Looks like that white civic is gaining on you dad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulvaS40T4 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) Read about your breather problem. I use S60R breather with 25mm (1") line to under the car. No crankcase pressure problems even on 660hp / 660nm / 2.5bar / 8000rpm rev limit. Also i have oil restrictor on my holset hx40 which is 2.5mm (0.100"). Also use 1liter less oil in engine so oil level should be on halfway mark on you oil dipstick. Also revving only to 8000rpm is helping alot compared to 9000rpm... Edited May 29, 2014 by VulvaS40T4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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