Blockpartie Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Sorry, that didn't go across as intended - didn't mean that as an attack on you No offense taken. My reaction was more meant to say "WTF, who would buy these items for retail?" Especially because these cars are now so old. You like attention to detail so I thought that using the OEM cd changer cover could be something you preferred over using a selfbuild solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 I had no problem running 1/0 gauge wire to the cargo space thru the cabin. In my opinion, for a negligible price and difficulty increase, the extra headroom a 1/0 gauge wire will provide is definitely worth it. I bought my wire from KnuKonceptz and was very pleased with it - great value for the price, very flexible and well manufactured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 I believe that's what I'm using H. I never kept the part number... and do not recall exactly what it cost. JEGS was having a sale one day and I thought "what the hell." I've had no problems with it... but it may be a larger gauge. Again... if I redo it... I'd probably go hunting for a larger BMW in the junkyard. Or a P2... didn't even think about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 I'm running 0ga in all of my cars. But it's generic wire from flea bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 I'm running 0ga in all of my cars. But it's generic wire from flea bay. hhmmm.... pricing it out that way, doesn't seem to be that much less, though. What about ANL fuse blocks? Did you add one to the + cable? Close to the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 No fuse here. Didn't see a need for it. I like to use thick wire to limit the drop over the length and make sure it supports the cranking amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Spent some time going over the system components today. What I found was that the MAF Honeycomb had dislodged & was restricting/interfering with airflow over the MAF filament. With the screen removed, the super rich condition was removed. With that resolved, I started pulling the DP off. The DP/WG flange has been leaking Looks like the manifold is leaking at the flange The Header is cracked at the collector, I'll be able to explore that once I have it off the engine. I thought the DP was leaking, but no sign of leakage. Had to chop it off at the 3" ID flex coupler - no way to remove that between the firewall & subframe/swaybar New Drain tube Worked a little on the GM coil mount plates. #3 needs to go either here or here Other four will all point this way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 I don't have any... but I could take some. It's just a JEGS battery relocation kit. Cable is through the floor, down the inside of the cabin at the doors and through the firewall. Like standard amp wire routing. Can't find the exact kit I used... but it is either similar to or exactly this : http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/10275/10002/-1 If I had to do it again... I would go to the junk yard and look for BMW stuff. How did you pass the cable through the firewall - I'm curious how to handle that. I've ordered the 1/0 ga kit off Summit along with a distribution block & some other connectors. Pics of the mounting in the back would be nice too Yea with all the weight you have up front with that thing I would definitely want the battery in the trunk. If the battery is gone you could easily use that space to build a nice shroud around the fliter. I'm going to make a large can for the filter, offset using some of the space where the battery is now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 For a run like this, I would only use oxygen-free copper (OFC) as opposed to the less expensive copper-clad aluminum (CCA) due to the improved current handling capacity and resistance to corrosion (causing voltage drop, etc) I ran mine through the factor opening on the driver's side of the firewall. This required removing the stock corrugated plastic tubing Here's a link to the wire I used: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/kolossus-fleks-kable/sp/kolossus-fleks-kable-10-red-power-ground-wire/ And it is extremely flexible, it makes routing the wire through tight areas very easy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnderr Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 NAPA has a nice 250A fuse and holder http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250320 Relocated Battery 250A Fuse. The fuse block is NAPA part number 782-1143 and the fuse (250A) is NAPA part number 782-1142 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 For a run like this, I would only use oxygen-free copper (OFC) as opposed to the less expensive copper-clad aluminum (CCA) due to the improved current handling capacity and resistance to corrosion (causing voltage drop, etc) I ran mine through the factor opening on the driver's side of the firewall. This required removing the stock corrugated plastic tubing Here's a link to the wire I used: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/kolossus-fleks-kable/sp/kolossus-fleks-kable-10-red-power-ground-wire/ And it is extremely flexible, it makes routing the wire through tight areas very easy Thanks for the tip, I have already ordered the Summit kit though. My firewall pass through is completely used up with my many data logging sensor wiring. I'm gonna have think about this. NAPA has a nice 250A fuse and holder http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250320 Thank you for the linky - good read on the various linked threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 Took over two fucking hours to remove the fucking header. The way the runners are designed, there is little clearance for a socket. Had to chamfer grind a closed 13mm wrench to get two of them loose, then undo 1/2 a flat at a time. Good news ( in that even though the flange nuts are absolute bollocks to access & tighten, they hadn't loosened over the past 35k) is that the only leakage was at the collector, the manifold was all good - all the sooting was blowing out the collector cracks. Now I have to fabricate a new DP to fit the revised WG positioning - which is so close to the DP flange, I see no way to refit an expansion coupler. Pics later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 It's impossible to convey in words, how much fun those kind of jobs are. Good news is you can look forward to tightening those nuts back down.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 and I thought wrestling my angle gear out on the weekend was bad. Interested to see pics of the leak. Keep in mind the stainless manifold will expand/contract more than the mild version and may be even more prone to cracking. Is your turbo supported/braced? Might be something to consider adding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 . Keep in mind the stainless manifold will expand/contract more than the mild version and may be even more prone to cracking. Is your turbo supported/braced? Might be something to consider adding. Bugger. Yeah, perhaps an additional support would be a good idea. Needs to be spring steel, like the tang used on older volvo exhaust braces. Keep forgetting to ask - Did you butt-weld your SS DP? Or are the joints lapped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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