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Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens


lookforjoe

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Between 4.1ms and 4.6ms of dwell (at 13V) I couldn't run more than 10psi of boost. When reduced to 3.5ms I could run 20psi without problems. I'm still above 70% efficiency at 20psi on the EFR7064, so this isn't much different than 20psi on your turbo.

I understand that this isn't the full saturation time that the coils are spec'd at requiring, but these coils have a known problem with pre-firing when over charged:

http://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/740107-tech-the-944-951-ignition-system-9.html#post10237916

Even at only 3.5ms of dwell I'm sure these coils will be putting out a lot more spark than the stock coils. I could never maintain .032" gap at 20psi with the stock coils before.

Yes, I agree.

Bench testing and running them in a car  are different situations after all.

The best charges time om the bench doesn't necessarily have to be the best charge time while using them in the car.

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Between 4.1ms and 4.6ms of dwell (at 13V) I couldn't run more than 10psi of boost. When reduced to 3.5ms I could run 20psi without problems. I'm still above 70% efficiency at 20psi on the EFR7064, so this isn't much different than 20psi on your turbo.

I understand that this isn't the full saturation time that the coils are spec'd at requiring, but these coils have a known problem with pre-firing when over charged:

http://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/740107-tech-the-944-951-ignition-system-9.html#post10237916

Even at only 3.5ms of dwell I'm sure these coils will be putting out a lot more spark than the stock coils. I could never maintain .032" gap at 20psi with the stock coils before, so for now, I am happy.

A tiny spark plug gap is what I'm trying to avoid. 

I would love to know why the LS2 coils don't work for me. Lowering the dwell times didn't actually make any difference at all that I could discern. I tried adding the CAPs as outlined on the MS forums.

I hoping the LS9 coils, with their closer to Bosch times, will play nicer with M4.4 COP. I also run stock plug gap, with both the Bosch coils, and the LS coils.

To reiterate: The Bosch coils & plugs at normal gap have no problem @ 26psi, some minor knock I need to address, but that's it. My clutch is another story. :)

 

Why are you so against it?

I need to be able to get the annual NYS inspection, which uses OBDII to confirm there are no faults. Until it is 25years old, after which only safety inspection applies, although they may still require OBDII data, since it's there. The 25 year thing applies to my X1/9, but that used to have to be tested for emissions on a rolling road .

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Hussein, if you would like to run a standalone EMS just register your vehicle in South Dakota. My wife's car is registered there and we just pay an annual fee for the sticker. No inspections, no emissions, nothing.

 

When we registered the yellow in South Dakota, for the title registration and plates it was just under $100. I think it's $30 or so a year for the sticker, check it out.

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Thanks for all the tips on OBDII / inspection circumvention. 

Finally got the subframe dropped & the trans & clutch/flywheel removed.

4DEBDCD5-0072-4EE5-9D7E-EB676CC92517_zps

2 years since last drop. Items replaced then that have now failed: 

 R/S control arm (forward bushing worn)

Trans mount - Stud dropped/ weld broke. Last one (Volvo) sheared off base

R/S wheel hub bearing shot

D6E39A65-A603-4FB8-9CFF-8B9B3CA25A70_zps

Spec flywheel & clutch go in tomorrow, and hopefully get it all back together.

 

Hussein, if you would like to run a standalone EMS just register your vehicle in South Dakota. My wife's car is registered there and we just pay an annual fee for the sticker. No inspections, no emissions, nothing.

When we registered the yellow in South Dakota, for the title registration and plates it was just under $100. I think it's $30 or so a year for the sticker, check it out.

What did you have to do about the 4% tax? Did you use one of those online agencies? Do they use rear only or F&R plates?

Edited by lookforjoe
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Why going stand alone?

What would be so much better with it?

I'm not. If I can get close to 550AWHP on M4.4, why go to the headache of rewiring & learning a new EMS. As long as I can resolve the coil issue, I have no reason to change it.

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Spec Flywheel, new flywheel bolts (9454743) 33ft/lb + 65º angle torque & Spec Stage III+ unsprung disc & PP installed (Rated for 670ft/lbs). Flywheel weighs 18lbs. Significantly more than the AP setup.

F045DF0B-37EB-40EC-B3E9-E27475D2D2F5_zps

E11D78D7-D1C8-4C7F-A0EF-057D078FE036_zps

Trans, & subframe back in. While I had the subframe down, I removed shims from the AC clutch to fix the excessive gap problem.

 

Edited by lookforjoe
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Got the wagon back together today. Clutch feels good, grabs closer to the floor than the AP, and of course much coarser engagement with the metallic disc vs. organic.

I changed out the shift gate assy in the hopes that that would resolve the 1-2shift problem I experienced on the autocross course at Carlisle. . It still seems to be there. I'll replace the shifter cables next.

In other news, some fucker stole 4  5 packages off my porch on Saturday, shortly after they were delivered by the post office. My $$$ replacement rear adjustable Konis were included.  

Edited by lookforjoe
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Damn H, sorry to hear about your packages getting stolen... looks like the last 2 months haven't been that kind to you (Clutch job, AWD system repair, X1/9 HG blowing and now these packages) 

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Working on the shifter & cables.

I have new '00 cables to use if need be, first I'm going to try C30 shifter & cables with modified S60 M66 cable bracket.

04F7D437-E577-4161-AD76-DB31B2713878_zps

Firewall pass through is not useable - so I had to slot &  transfer that over

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F932076A-FCF4-4F9F-8F37-BE1E30C9ADF3_zps

My old cables may have been binding & causing the loss of second in hard shifts, but I bent the rigid ends getting them out, so I will never know for sure

B3D6B213-34C7-42FD-ABA7-F8BADDEF5431_zps

Shifter needs to be offset to the left & rotated a couple degrees CCW

FB1BBF43-9732-4375-AC01-4EE39377B22C_zps

EF32D32E-672E-4DD3-893B-B6090D4C8FB4_zps

 

Adaptor plates to offset for C30/S/V40/50 shifter

19266299-97E7-4225-AA84-E2D4DC326EDA_zps

Shifter Assy comparisons

750D1CB2-3683-457B-91F7-8B2AD59EACCC_zps

BC8B60BE-581B-4F36-8F68-65070052F1D0_zps

Modified cable bracket, reduced main cable offset by 3/4" to get correct throw for C30 shifter cables with S60 trans shift gate 

B1053F12-BF96-4C23-B0BB-BAD83DCAD7D6_zps

BD25DFE7-A31D-44A4-80ED-EC5340BA4223_zps

 

 

Edited by lookforjoe
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Got the trans cable bracket installed, and hooked up the cables after making sure the routing was not interfering with the PS rack, etc..

1563B777-07CF-417D-9A43-36A92EF0E6F4_zps

9CA1FF3B-16AA-414E-992A-274993D2FB0D_zps

E10C2324-DE56-4018-B50F-0E191A9EF566_zps

what I had not accounted for was the fact that the C30 cables are shorter overall length, so I had to move the whole shifter assy an inch or so forward

B649843D-A5C5-490A-B645-56CE046F8125_zps

0CFF4948-BEC5-437F-B45D-9207B25698AC_zps

revised brackets

786E984E-4DF2-484A-A66B-ED8000524F30_zps

M8 hex bolts to secure the brackets to the floor

E2AA4B11-6F92-489C-A62C-FBF9F527B14B_zps

M8 bolts to secure shifter the brackets. Spring washer is to take up the offset thickness of the shifter assy, so the plastic is not stressed by the larger washers.

I did away with all the rubber isolaters.

D376908D-6EED-4B75-B329-72D77DA6E7ED_zps

C7AB3B88-6AFE-4D1A-9FC1-7916EBF42096_zps

Shifts seem good now, except the C30 shifter has a kink in it, that alters what I'm used to in terms of overall shift orientation. The fact that the shift pattern is reversed is less of an issue, IMO.

EDIT: Trying to find pics of the S/V40 or S/V50 shifter cables - pretty sure someone said the firewall passthrough was the same as ours. Don't know which ones Commander Riker used here

 

Edited by lookforjoe
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