Burn-E Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Your loss of 2nd in hard shifts is similar to the issue I initially saw before my cable completely froze and I lost 1, 3, and 5. It all was back to normal with new cables.What's the benefit of the C30 shifter over the P80 shifter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 (edited) Your loss of 2nd in hard shifts is similar to the issue I initially saw before my cable completely froze and I lost 1, 3, and 5. It all was back to normal with new cables.What's the benefit of the C30 shifter over the P80 shifter?Not much really. It is a more compact design, with less moving parts, so less inherent play between the shifter & the cables. Knob attachment is nicer, & shift knobs are lighter weight than the earlier designs.I'm going to cut & fit the shaft so that it is straight. If it still feels weird, I'll just reinstall the '00 shifter housing (with modified shaft for P1 knob) & new '00 cables. EDIT: End of Aug, I reinstalled the modified '00 shifter housing (has insert from S60R housing to provide correct lever throw) and new '00 cables. It was just too funky adapting to the reversed shift gate. I checked the throw & shift operation on my spare trans before reinstalling. The one thing that I hadn't dealt with previously was the main shift cable offset - since they are meant for an M56, the main cable has greater length from firewall to trans bracket than the M66 version. To correct this, I cut off the crimp that holds the cable in the firewall grommet & pulled some of the length back into the cabin. This prevents the cable from arching over into the frame rail & potential binding as a result. Seems to shift fine now, I'll know for sure when I do some more aggressive 1-2 pulls. In the event it still is an issue, I will get an S60 shifter, cables & trans bracket & make it match the stock S60 setup. Edited September 7, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 The link you posted isn't working for me, but I just used the stock auto firewall grommit. I can't seem to find pics, but I just modified it to accept the second cable and then RTV'd the shit out of it to seal it. A bit ghetto but it did the trick. Can you not just use a P2R shifter/cables? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 (edited) The link you posted isn't working for me, but I just used the stock auto firewall grommit. I can't seem to find pics, but I just modified it to accept the second cable and then RTV'd the shit out of it to seal it. A bit ghetto but it did the trick. Can you not just use a P2R shifter/cables?The P2 cables are designed to work with that shifter - which is just a revised version of the older style with the main cable attaching to the base of the lever instead of on top. Fixed the link. This editor sucks, I was linking the specific post & it just doesn't work.Were you also able to use the stock shifter housing orientation (relative to the existing holes) ? The main cable was too short for that to work for me. Edited August 9, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) Been working on the battery relocation. Based on battery size, the only place I can put it without interfering with the cargo access panels & carrying large sheets of plywood, etc., is the left rear. I bought the hydraulic crimp tool for the larger connectors.The hold-down rods pass through a tie plate under the access panel, that is bolted to the base of the rear well. Access panel is also bolted to the inner rail, through the battery box. Makes it a bit of a PITA to remove, but this way I know it's' about as safe as can be. The vent tube is located in the corner of the box, and passes down & out through the fender vent panel.Battery ground & fuse blockCable runs alongside conduit under rear seat back from cargo area, then into conduit.I was able to fit the cable through the firewall pass through into the bay, even with all the existing add ons I have in place. Used another fuse block as a junction - other side (rear) is the existing feed to the starter.Battery ground is now secured to the frame rail, along with a ground to the transmission case. Edited August 14, 2015 by lookforjoe 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Nice install Hussein! So much room for activities. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 (edited) Nice install Hussein! So much room for activities. The plan was to make room for a new airbox, however the filter fitted sideways takes up all the space, and won't allow for a straight run for the MAF. Until I can figure out what to do about it, I made an air deflector for the existing location, with a funnel feed from the left bumper air vent Edited August 13, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2015 cleaned up the harnesses Made a cover for the air filter until I can figure out if I want to do something else with the locationall buttoned up for nowNext I have to re fit the LS2 coils & try the revised dwell table, to see if the voltage axis issue that Aaron found is the cause of my problems with them. After that, I'm going to fit the LS9 coils & try them.Then, once the clutch is bedded, I can try pushing it a little harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2015 Started on the LS9 mount plates. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 (edited) Getting ready to install the QA1's, following Aaron's lead.The Koni's are completely blown now. Kaplhenke was giving me replacements at cost, however the set I ordered was stolen off my porch within a hour or so of delivery, and additional units are backordered until end of November.Both the Volvo AWD shocks (Nivo/standard) have a shoulder to spread the load on the mount, so I used a rear sway bar end link bushing seat for that. Made 1" spacers to take up the untreated portion of the threaded rod, and had the openings in the 5" bars machined to match the Volvo spec.Threaded portion on these is not metric, it is 3/8" fine. One could thread the rest of the rod, and not use a spacer. Not sure how that would impact available travel, since that would move the piston up 1" relative to the shock body position. These shocks have total 5" travel, vs. the 4" that the Koni's had before they hit the bump stop.I compressed the suspension until the control arm hit the bump stop, and I measured 4.5" travel. So, I shouldn't have any shock travel issues with these in my preferred height setup.Good job these arrived today, I just found one of my rear wheel bearings on the X1/9 is toasted... Edited September 6, 2015 by lookforjoe 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayAway Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 I have the Qa1's and i like them alot over the nivo's. Your koni's did not last long, huh? For the price of them, that just insane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) I have the Qa1's and i like them alot over the nivo's. Your koni's did not last long, huh? For the price of them, that just insane I don't know if mine failed prematurely because of my ride height/setup - before I got it all right they definitely bottomed out on the bump stops. Only one of them was completely shot - all the oil came out. Slight revison to the install - the space goes on top, otherwise shock travel is reduced from 3.5" to 2.5", and adding drop spacers at the lower mount to get it back would make adjustment impossible.sequence of top mount parts, tip of shock threaded rod is cut off, otherwise it will prevent install of the top cover plateI set the damper level to ten, and that feels pretty good. Might go a couple clicks firmer.Swapped out the 450lb springs for 400lb, still using Blue Coil since I have several sets. Not impressed with the quality, the ones I removed have both lost length, one about 1/2", the other about 1/3", coating completely peeled off & rusted. Maybe 30-35K on them. Think I'll look around for a set of Eibach 400lb, 8"L, 3" coil. Edited September 6, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayAway Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) Well it would make sense if the koni's were not engineered length wise for the coils, that the would indeed blow out that fast. I put my spacer on the bottom. I actually used the spacers from the old IPD drop bolt kit i Used to have. When installing the QA1's you kinda have to figure the mounts on the body on your own. Edited September 6, 2015 by WayAway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 Well it would make sense if the koni's were not engineered length wise for the coils, that the would indeed blow out that fast.I put my spacer on the bottom. I actually used the spacers from the old IPD drop bolt kit i Used to have. When installing the QA1's you kinda have to figure the mounts on the body on your own.I believe Ben made all the necessary computations when he designed the rear setup. I don't know if using shorter springs and reducing the length of the perch for lowering had any impact on that. Pretty much I went back & forth with him as I made changes to the setup.The way you have yours, isn't it awkward to reach the adjusters now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayAway Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 With out a doubt. I have small hands, and i think ts a little difficult for me. Too close to the spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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