lookforjoe Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) Drove 500+ miles to Ithaca NY & back on Sat/Sun. Car started smoking on decel about an hour into the drive. But the time we got to Ithaca, it was heavy oil smoke & knock. Had to add a couple quarts of oil to get there. Didn't want to deal with towing 230miles home, so I bought 10 quarts of oil for the drive home, stopping every 50-60 miles to add a quart or so. actually only needed a gallon all told to get home with a reasonable oil level maintained.Did a compression & leak down test today. Compression is even enough (#1: 190, #2: 185, #3: 200, #4: 180, #5: 190) except for #3 which was higher, and also the one that had obvious oil washing. The spark plug was heavily coked. Leak down test didn't show ANY leakage past valves or rings. However, the oil ring must be fucked on #3, there's no other reasonable explanation for the oil loss/consumption that I can see. There is no CC pressure/blowby, which is odd, really. Still, one would expect it to destruct over a 230 mile drive. I don't know if I had coil failure that allowing the cylinder to get washed, starting the coking, or if the oil volume just fouled the plug & then the cylinder got washed...The knock sounds like it's right at the top of the bore, not low down like a normal rod knock. I dunno. I dropped the filter & there are metal particles in it. The machine shop mentioned that carbon buildup on the piston can lead to knock / contact with the cylinder head. Based on the amount of coking I could see with the boroscope, that seemed feasible. Adam & I ran a decent amount of water through to steam clean the piston. Checking with the boroscope after, the piston is pretty darn clean, and the knock is as present as ever, and the oil was diluted with some of the water, so seems like water must have got by the rings to enter the CC.I'm gonna have to pull the motor to see what actually happened with the #3 piston/rod.At this point though, I don't think I'm going to fix it. I need a good working car before the winter gets here. My X1/9 is not a good winter use car, neither is our '95 Mustang GT. The Mustang is actually OK with 4 snows, but I don't want to have to use it as a DD.So, I'm looking at a couple of 2011 C30 T5M's. If I go that route, I will start parting out the XR. Edited September 16, 2015 by lookforjoe changed emphasis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 So, I'm looking at a couple of 2011 C30 T5M's. If I go that route, I will start parting out the XR. ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?Damn 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 So, I'm looking at a couple of 2011 C30 T5M's. If I go that route, I will start parting out the XR.Woah. That's not what I expected to read at the end of that post. If #3 is toast, why not just put another rod/piston in and keep the XR on the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 So, I'm looking at a couple of 2011 C30 T5M's. If I go that route, I will start parting out the XR.Noooo!!!Why not just pick up a winter beater for cheap while the XR is down?Just a WAG but kinda sounds like #3 piston is cracked or something..BTW: what CR pistons are you running? 9:1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) Woah. That's not what I expected to read at the end of that post. If #3 is toast, why not just put another rod/piston in and keep the XR on the road? Yeah. I just don't feel like I have the energy to do a complete new engine build on this. Right now, the '98 is the newest(!) of our three vehicles - I need to either stop fucking with it (can't see that happening) or just move on. I need to either pull the motor or pull the head & drop the pan, then pull the piston/rod. Problem is, if either piston or rod is buggered, it's unlikely the bore is undamaged. Can't decide how the proceed. Noooo!!!Why not just pick up a winter beater for cheap while the XR is down?Just a WAG but kinda sounds like #3 piston is cracked or something..BTW: what CR pistons are you running? 9:1?Yup 9:1 Wisecos.Not sure I can be bothered with dealing with finding a beater for the winter process..... cheap still means couple K around here. Edited September 16, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) Not sure I can be bothered with dealing with finding a beater for the winter process..... cheap still means couple K around here.You buy a beater for couple of Gs; drive it while the XR is down, and then sell it once the XR is back on the road for what you paid for it (or more, since I'm sure you'll fix it up!).. what's to lose?couple of quick examples:http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/5223452773.htmlhttp://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/5210299049.html Edited September 16, 2015 by gdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoLonY Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Damn sorry to hear man, sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I'm gonna have to pull the motor to see what actually happened with the #3 piston/rod.At this point though, I don't think I'm going to fix it. I need a good working car before the winter gets here. My X1/9 is not a good winter use car, neither is our '95 Mustang GT. The Mustang is actually OK with 4 snows, but I don't want to have to use it as a DD.So, I'm looking at a couple of 2011 C30 T5M's. If I go that route, I will start parting out the XR. Of course you're going to fix it A C30, what fun is that ....you can't even tune them yourself I would lift the head, drop the oil pan, get piston #3 out and decide from there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martijn_B Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Hussein...I've been at the same situation last year and understand your feeling. Only reason I still have the volvo is because I have a 2015 audi next to it now. It's important to have something reliable next to it that just always starts and drives comfortably...as at the stages where we are with our engines anything can happen and you never know when the next breakdown is going to be. That said, I would hate to see you quitting the XR... and although I would opt for your ENEM's, I wish you find the strength to continue!Like piet said, drop pan and lift head(can do this in a few hours) and you will know what's up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S8ET6 Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) ... If I go that route, I will start parting out the XR. Edited September 16, 2015 by S8ET6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) I'm going to try & get the head off today - it's a royal PITA with the headers, otherwise it's pretty cut & dry. I'll wait until it's apart & I can evaluate the extent of the damage before I jump off the deep end....... LOL at the Chipmunk.... Edited September 16, 2015 by lookforjoe 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I know the feeling. I have trashed enough engines in mine that if this one goes, I am not rebuilding it, and I am not pushing for more power like you are.Another thing that could cause the knock is a fried rod bearing. It would explain the metal in the oil as well. Is it a random knock at idle? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S70-R Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Hussein, I'm really sorry about the situation. Situations like those are always hard to handle and to manage the feelings.But I agree with the other members. Get a temporarily replacement DD car and fix the XR.After so many years of effort and money creating such a unique car you shouldn't give up only because of a stupid piston/ring/rod/bearing, whatever.You have 99% of the hard job done in your car. I know it takes time and effort but you just need to open the engine and check the damage first and you have the knowledge and skills to do it yourself. If you hadn't it would be a much harder task.If there's no cylinder damage that's "easy", just replace the rod/bearings or piston/rings, whatever created the problem and try to evaluate what caused it so it won't happen again.Even if you need to rebore it or put new sleeves on it, go for it. Like I said, 99% of the hard work you have already done on your car so get the strenght to fix it and get it running again.I'm sure you will be pretty happy to have the XR running strong again and I also think that if you go with other route you'll probably regret of not having it fixedParting out the car would also takes you a lot of time, effort and dedication (not to talk about loosing at least 50% of the investments you made on your car). And it wouldn't be easy from an emotional point of view as well.So, good luck and I'm sure you can do it!You have our support. Go for it! Edited September 17, 2015 by S70-R 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Only had time this evening to drop the pan. 40K miles since build.My X1/9 oil warning light decided to come on at idle not he way home from work. Hooked up a mechanical pressure gauge & found the idle pressure was under 8psi, but OK when revved. I blipped the throttle a few times, & there was a surge on the gauge, and then he pressure was back around 30-35 as it should be on that motor. Pressure relief valve must have stuck, although I've never experienced that before...Anyway, with the pan off the XR, I found large chunks of #3 piston skirt & oil control ring.For reference, this how the piston looks outbroken skirthow it should lookcrank looks like it's OKbearings not so much#3#4I'll get the head off next. The motor will have to be pulled & flushed, new rod & main bearings. Hopefully the bore is OK - surprisingly, it looks undamaged, and compression numbers backed that up.Once I get the head off & some numbers worked up for overall repair costs, I'll decide whether I'm gonna fix it. Honestly, I'm still leaning towards moving on, so I may sell it anyway, even if I'm losing money, since that's a given. I've had the wagon apart so many times for clutches, etc., that I really am not motivated. The grueling drive home from Ithaca just reinforced that we don't have a newer reliable ride. I cannot afford to have 4 cars, and the X1/9 is never going - I wanted one as a teen back in England, so I'm not getting rid of it. I have to go test drive a C30 M66 T5 on Saturday. If I like it, that may be the way I go. I can get CEIKA hubs & brackets to transfer the brakes, and the new 18 wheels & tires I bought will also fit, with the correct hub rings. The Mustang GT will be the next to go, looking at Fiat 500 (manual) Cabriolets to replace that for the Mrs. Edited September 17, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S70-R Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) That is a big ouch but if you confirm there's no cylinder damage those will be great news!How would a skirt break like that. Defective?If the oil pressure relief valve was stuck (closed) you were supposed to have excessive pressure when revving the engine and normal pressure at idle I think. Right? But that doesn't seem to be the case. It seems more like it opens at low engine speeds when it shouldn't open (stuck open?).They would explain the rod bearings wear but would not explain the skirt issue.Maybe the broken skirt contaminated the oil causing the oil pressure problems through the pump and relief valve. Edited September 17, 2015 by S70-R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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