flyfishing3 Posted September 19, 2015 Report Share Posted September 19, 2015 Dang H, that's some crazy stuff there. Problem is the won't admit anything and even if they do, it won't help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 HH if you are going through with parting it I could use a couple things. I'll message you with what I'd like. All projects must come to a end. Been there before and I'll be there again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 HH if you are going through with parting it I could use a couple things. I'll message you with what I'd like.All projects must come to a end. Been there before and I'll be there again. I put a list of already sold/ spoken for in my showroom thread, look at that also.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankenMoose Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Man, so sorry to here about this. Part of the reason I went with Wiseco pistons is because of your build. But, alas, everything ends.It looks to me like when your piston was on the down stroke, it was extending downward enough for the rod to come in contact with the skirt. That would explain the slight bend in the skirt, and the stress cracks/fractures. i.e: The skirt was being bent out ever so slightly from the inside by impacting the rod; then, probably bent back into position by the bore on the upstroke. Do this enough times, and BAM stress cracks. Are there any signs of contact on the rods?Also, I don't remember, is this a B5244T3 block? If not, did you also use the crank from a B5244T3 along with the Piston/Rod setup from it? I only ask because the B5244T3 crank as a 92mm circumference, as apposed to the 90mm of the B5234T3. This allows the rod to be in a difference place when rotating than on the 90mm. It is a small difference, but enough to allow for clearance. Just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 So sorry to hear about everything H.Must be very devastating.Best of luck with the part out.Looking forward to what you start tinkering with next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 I fully understand the frustration. Like I said earlier, I have trashed 3 engines myself, and that one that is currently in the car is the last one. If it goes it will be replaced with a junk yard engine.My 850 has been down for the last 10 days and I have been driving the spider. Now I want to fix it up because even with its issues, it was fun driving it. Are you on any Italian car forums for the X1/9? It is running L-jet right now, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 sorry for your loss Hussein.skirts are the tightest part...in my opinion piston clearance to bores were too tight that's why they all have cracks...not to a point were it happens right away, but over time . i like my piston clearances loose as seasoned whore gina......welp maybe not that loose...but for high booost on max side for sure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) I fully understand the frustration. Like I said earlier, I have trashed 3 engines myself, and that one that is currently in the car is the last one. If it goes it will be replaced with a junk yard engine.My 850 has been down for the last 10 days and I have been driving the spider. Now I want to fix it up because even with its issues, it was fun driving it. Are you on any Italian car forums for the X1/9? It is running L-jet right now, correct?Xweb for the X1/9. It's always fun driving it with the roof off - like a go cart, but with more power now I have the 1600 stroker motor :) Never drove a Spider - I like the styling on that as well. Saw a nice well loved one in Portland OR while we were out there.I'm running Volvo LH2.2 at the moment, working on LH2.4 - I need the adaptive & tuning options with 2.4Man, so sorry to here about this. Part of the reason I went with Wiseco pistons is because of your build. But, alas, everything ends.It looks to me like when your piston was on the down stroke, it was extending downward enough for the rod to come in contact with the skirt. That would explain the slight bend in the skirt, and the stress cracks/fractures. i.e: The skirt was being bent out ever so slightly from the inside by impacting the rod; then, probably bent back into position by the bore on the upstroke. Do this enough times, and BAM stress cracks. Are there any signs of contact on the rods?Also, I don't remember, is this a B5244T3 block? If not, did you also use the crank from a B5244T3 along with the Piston/Rod setup from it? I only ask because the B5244T3 crank as a 92mm circumference, as apposed to the 90mm of the B5234T3. This allows the rod to be in a difference place when rotating than on the 90mm. It is a small difference, but enough to allow for clearance. Just a thought... No marks on the rods, except #3 where there is scuffing from the skirt dropping. The block is '04 2.3L RN "C" prepped, I used the heavier crank with the 147mm rods. 98 2.4l heavy crank & 04 2.3l lighter crank have the same stroke, unless I missed something.sorry for your loss Hussein.skirts are the tightest part...in my opinion piston clearance to bores were too tight that's why they all have cracks...not to a point were it happens right away, but over time .i like my piston clearances loose as seasoned whore gina......welp maybe not that loose...but for high booost on max side for sure. Thank you.My bores were on the loose side - the speed shop has the same opinion as you, looser (within reason) is better for higher output. Wiseco bore spec was 3.209". Mine are (edit) .03-.05mm on the loose side of that. Edited September 21, 2015 by lookforjoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Thank you.My bores were on the loose side - the speed shop has the same opinion as you, looser (within reason) is better for higher output. Wiseco bore spec was 3.209". Mine are .003-.005mm on the loose side of that. not by specs but that's pretty dam tight to me...i just had napa bored out my 2.3 81mm block that i was going to trash but since i have R 2.5l 83mm pistons ,rods and crank , i said why not just built another spare short block ....i told them loose please to .001 inch = .0254mm that's the tightest short block i have sitting around...but i deal with all used builds for my volvos... i am certain one day i'll get tired just like you and get rid of all this...although this is the longest i owned this volvo brand than any previous cars , since 2005. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 not by specs but that's pretty dam tight to me...i just had napa bored out my 2.3 81mm block that i was going to trash but since i have R 2.5l 83mm pistons ,rods and crank , i said why not just built another spare short block ....i told them loose please to .001 inch = .0254mm that's the tightest short block i have sitting around..I mistyped the clearance - it is .03-.05mm He said we could simply hone the bores, but I'd still have to buy a new set of pistons..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) I would think the bores being too loose and more likely to cause piston rock, which is always a concern anyway with short skirt pistons, would be more likely to cause skirts cracking. If the bores were too tight you would see scuffing/seize marks on the skirts and bores (aluminum melting from friction and moving from the piston to the cyl). H., did you see any abrasion marks on the skirts? What about the top of the pistons; any sign of mottling at all? This would be sign of pre-ignition or detonation, but may not see it on forged pistons. Did you have adaptive-knock turned off?Very interested in what (if anything) you hear back from wiseco..some quick googling yielded this; seems this is certainly not the first time something like this has happened (is an old thread though)http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cracked-wiseco-piston-skirts.140790/ H; i just converted .03-.05mmm; that's about 0.0012" to 0.002"; that seems awfully tight for forged pistons of that size bore..! Are you sure that's correct? This is a good read too, and relevant:http://www.underhoodservice.com/getting-a-fix-on-piston-diagnosis-and-inspection/ Edited September 21, 2015 by gdog 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) Also relevant:http://engineproblem.com.au/engine_problem/details/2.htmlEspecially the sentence with the term "faulty piston design in it" Edited September 21, 2015 by Piet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 when you're haulin azz on a highway on a long extended trip at high speeds here and there, things expand, they get pressed...too tight....too loose you'll hear a piston slap way all before that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) Like gdog said: If the bores were too tight you would see scuffing/seize marks on the skirtsAll cracks are on the exhaust side of the pistons crack starting. all the pistons have marking on the inside of the head near where the oil passages are - not sure what caused that "crack starting. all the pistons have marking on the inside of the head near where the oil passages are"........ Didn't notice this before but maybe this would explain everything? While the pistons have been pushed upwards in the cilinder the H-rods, beeing at an angle came in contact with the inner side of the skirt, pushing it against the cilinder wall and eventually made it crack.....Or are these markings too high up in the pistons for that? Edited September 21, 2015 by Piet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Is there a cutout here in the piston and that is where the cracking occurred? If so, I would think that is a flaw in the piston design. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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