ozzimark Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Eric said he was gonna do a dyno comparo between the turbo and N/A cams... no idea how that went though, or if he's even done it yet :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B6ZF_0ZmNV3ZZWQ5MzVkYjYtZGM3OC00ODQzLWJmZTctNGU0Y2U2NzRkZmRh&hl=en Are you suggesting printing it out and using that? Plus, you need the proper tool to square the cam cover as you pull it down, and a tool to lock the two cams relative to each other.... it's easy if you have the Volvo tools, not so otherwise. If you've never done it before, you better allow several hours to check over everything you've done. I have no problem spending a day swapping cams, but can it be done without those tools you just mentioned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 Are you suggesting printing it out and using that? I have no problem spending a day swapping cams, but can it be done without those tools you just mentioned? That's why I posted it Print it out & stick on a piece of card. Use a hole punch for the two small bolt holes - just make sure you get those right or the tool reference will be off. Not easily. You'll have to make a cam locking tool if you don't have access to the Volvo tool. The cam cover tool can be worked around, but I wouldn't do it, it's too many things to juggle, and you can chip the cam seal seats in the head it you don't ease the cam cover off evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L8 APEKS Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 That's why I posted it Print it out & stick on a piece of card. Use a hole punch for the two small bolt holes - just make sure you get those right or the tool reference will be off. Not easily. You'll have to make a cam locking tool if you don't have access to the Volvo tool. The cam cover tool can be worked around, but I wouldn't do it, it's too many things to juggle, and you can chip the cam seal seats in the head it you don't ease the cam cover off evenly. I think I may just call one of my Volvo tech buddies and see what they would charge to swap these in. It would be cheaper than buying the tools, and cheaper than breaking something if I did it wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboedVolvo Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 That's why I posted it Print it out & stick on a piece of card. Use a hole punch for the two small bolt holes - just make sure you get those right or the tool reference will be off. Not easily. You'll have to make a cam locking tool if you don't have access to the Volvo tool. The cam cover tool can be worked around, but I wouldn't do it, it's too many things to juggle, and you can chip the cam seal seats in the head it you don't ease the cam cover off evenly. Although I agree Somewhat, I dont think it would be out of the range of the average DIYer When removing the cam cover I usually just give it a whack horizontally with a soft face mallet and then lift it up, who knows... Ive only done it twice but both times have worked like a charm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 kind of, can make adjustments to the powerband. Advance for more low-end or retard for more high end. I'd also like to do this in the near future, to those who did both how big of an issue was overlap and what would you say your actual adjustment was? I think according to what he said, anyone have a good idea what a good adjustment would be to increase low end? Maybe just 2* degrees on each cam? That's why I posted it Print it out & stick on a piece of card. Use a hole punch for the two small bolt holes - just make sure you get those right or the tool reference will be off. Not easily. You'll have to make a cam locking tool if you don't have access to the Volvo tool. The cam cover tool can be worked around, but I wouldn't do it, it's too many things to juggle, and you can chip the cam seal seats in the head it you don't ease the cam cover off evenly. Ooooh, ok. I thought you were just posting that to flaunt that you had one! Although I agree Somewhat, I dont think it would be out of the range of the average DIYer When removing the cam cover I usually just give it a whack horizontally with a soft face mallet and then lift it up, who knows... Ive only done it twice but both times have worked like a charm Thanks for that tip. I know someone who had made a cam locking tool, I will get a hold of him and see if he can make a small write up or something on how to make it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Is this similar to the cam locking tool that your are talking about Hussein? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bum2kev Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 yes thats a cam locking tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 yes thats a cam locking tool. Awesome. I found some 93 NA cams just a little ways from me, those the same as 94+ NA cams? I know 93 was kinda the bastard child year, so I'm not sure if they're the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ipd Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Make sure you document where you install the cams at in relation to advance/retard as the amount of overlap will play a significant role. Some turbo cars can actually benefit from more overlap while others will suffer. Depends on how much boost crossover occurs (pressure differential in ex man vs. intake man. The more cross over (closer they are to one another) the more overlap you can get away with. What I'm getting at is N/A cams on a stock turbo car might not yield great results while on a heavily modified turbo car they might do much better given all other things equal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 (edited) Is this similar to the cam locking tool that your are talking about Hussein? If you make one be sure that your tabs are parallel to each other and offset. iirs the exhaust one is slot up and the intake is slot down. It is in Haynes,check to be sure. FAIL ON PIC V Intake * * * * * -------------* *-------------* * * * Exhaust * * *-----------* * -------------* * * * * * Edited January 11, 2010 by the commissar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboedVolvo Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 If you make one be sure that your tabs are parallel to each other and offset. iirs the exhaust one is slot up and the intake is slot down. It is in Haynes,check to be sure. Intake * * * * * -------------* *-------------* * * * Exhaust * * *-----------* * -------------* * * * * * I'm sorry...but WTF is that? :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 FAIL ON PIC was trying to "sketch" what I was trying to describe but editor took out all the spaces!!!:ph34r: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bum2kev Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 hes saying the slot isnt right in the middle. the slot tends to be more towards one side and more towards another side. depending on I/E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 If you make one be sure that your tabs are parallel to each other and offset. iirs the exhaust one is slot up and the intake is slot down. It is in Haynes,check to be sure. By tabs do you mean the timing marks? Make sure you document where you install the cams at in relation to advance/retard as the amount of overlap will play a significant role. Some turbo cars can actually benefit from more overlap while others will suffer. Depends on how much boost crossover occurs (pressure differential in ex man vs. intake man. The more cross over (closer they are to one another) the more overlap you can get away with. What I'm getting at is N/A cams on a stock turbo car might not yield great results while on a heavily modified turbo car they might do much better given all other things equal. What does the overlap mean? Well, by the time I'm done with the car it will be M56H, 16T, tune, injectors, fmic, exhaust. I don't know if that counts as heavily modified or not. So you think that NA cams on a fairly mild modded car won't yield me substantial results? I'm either going to add NA cams and advance them a degree, or advance the stock cams to strengthen my low end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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