Keaton85 Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Your way over thinking it! The reason it is connected to the SAS solenoid is to cause a voltage drop when that solenoid received a signal. The ECU is getting the readings it needs when it needs them. It doesn't matter if we mess with the rear O2 anyway. It does not control the air fuel ratios thus engine performance and fuel economy are sustained. This is not just some hack job! It has been tried and test. Myself, personally have tens of thousands of miles on this mod with not a single issue. Solder in the diode then remove everything except the solenoid and relay. Easy peasy! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeedyRom Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Your way over thinking it! The reason it is connected to the SAS solenoid is to cause a voltage drop when that solenoid received a signal. The ECU is getting the readings it needs when it needs them. It doesn't matter if we mess with the rear O2 anyway. It does not control the air fuel ratios thus engine performance and fuel economy are sustained. This is not just some hack job! It has been tried and test. Myself, personally have tens of thousands of miles on this mod with not a single issue. Solder in the diode then remove everything except the solenoid and relay. Easy peasy! No such thing as over thinking . I might give my idea a try first just to see what happens. I wanted to make sure I was thinking about this correctly. Worst case scenario, it doesn't work, and I go to the "tried and tested" method. I have two ECUs so it won't be the end of the world if I destroy it for some reason. I really don't see that being an issue though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Are you trying to accomplish something other than what everyone else in his thread has done? Otherwise, I don't get why you suspect it won't work. I don't think there has been a single person who has not had it work perfectly. But don't take my word for it, review the other 9 pages of posts and you will find the evidence. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Note to my last post: I was wrong about the rear O2 sensor, I was thinking about the cat. efficiency voltage drop! Correction: The FRONT O2 sensor has the voltage drop. and this system runs at start-up so I believe it's already in close loop during warm up (might be wrong). Then at highway/cruising speed it does a system test for a few minutes, which will set the readiness code. I don't get your method? as this method is the only one that works as the SAS solenoid HAS to be the trigger. The pump used to be the trigger but that came on before the solenoid which caused the ECU to freak since the voltage drop was sooner then expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeedyRom Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Are you trying to accomplish something other than what everyone else in his thread has done? Otherwise, I don't get why you suspect it won't work. I don't think there has been a single person who has not had it work perfectly. But don't take my word for it, review the other 9 pages of posts and you will find the evidence. Not trying to accomplish anything different. Also seems this method does work. My only question is why do we need to do it this way? Wouldn't it be easier to just put a resistor in line with A32 to emulate the function of the solenoid? From what VADIS says, it only needs to see a low voltage to assume the valve is functioning. Note to my last post: I was wrong about the rear O2 sensor, I was thinking about the cat. efficiency voltage drop! Correction: The FRONT O2 sensor has the voltage drop. and this system runs at start-up so I believe it's already in close loop during warm up (might be wrong). Then at highway/cruising speed it does a system test for a few minutes, which will set the readiness code. I don't get your method? as this method is the only one that works as the SAS solenoid HAS to be the trigger. The pump used to be the trigger but that came on before the solenoid which caused the ECU to freak since the voltage drop was sooner then expected. I was wrong about running a resistor to ground. That won't work . I just threw it out there without thinking about it. I read elsewhere that some people tried using a PWM and adjusted it to get it to trick the ECU into thinking it was the Solenoid sending the signal. I'm going to try researching this a little more through VADIS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) There are probably, all members added up on this forum, a total of a few HUNDRED THOUSAND miles on this mod with NO PROBLEMS. (almost 20k on mine) So why not just do it this way? Next why don't you try a different shape for your wheels..who's to say round is the best? :rolleyes: Edited December 6, 2011 by scumcity14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 Yeah, come to think about it maybe I will try flipping my timing belt next time around. ya know put the smooth side inward! make it go real fast... This IS the method, it takes 10minutes, costs 99 cents and you don't have to reinvent the wheel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T5power Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 i've done this on three cars now, on them about a year now. not one of which has had an SAS code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeedyRom Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) Anyways, I think I understand why. The fluctuation in voltage is necessary in order to trick the ECU. Edit: Just thought of this. In open loop, there is no voltage coming from the O2 sensors. Only in closed loop do you see voltage from the O2. No voltage = SAS is on. Voltage = SAS is off. While I was reading, per VADIS Edited December 7, 2011 by SeedyRom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 This needs bumped for more flaming LOL OP I upgraded your membership and threw a review up at: http://volvospeed.com/install_performance_parts_how_tos/performance_guides/sas-delete_air-pump.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted December 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 OP I upgraded your membership and threw a review up at: Thanks for the upgrade Che'! Much appreciated. There was some question as to whether or not readiness could be established with this mod. Others have said it would, but I had never checked any of the cars I personally did. I recently checked them and the answer is YES, readiness monitors are all set. Good job on the videos BTW, your soldering skills are > mine :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted December 21, 2011 Report Share Posted December 21, 2011 Thanks for the upgrade Che'! Much appreciated. There was some question as to whether or not readiness could be established with this mod. Others have said it would, but I had never checked any of the cars I personally did. I recently checked them and the answer is YES, readiness monitors are all set. Good job on the videos BTW, your soldering skills are > mine Solder was a hack job because I wanted to use red and green wire to assure it showed up on lower resolution. Either way, great DIY. Keep em coming, videos, pictures whatever. Sure there is another upgrade out there ; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Matt Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 I did this tonight and I have a couple of dumb questions: If the pump is removed then you can not keep it plugged in. Do we cut the wire from the pump and just leave the connector plugged in?? Same goes for the Solonoid on top of the fan?? Do you remove the vacuum lines (plug it at the intake next to the bypass valve) and just connect the plug? What if we left everything connected and just did the diode on the inside of the ECU...Would this trip the check engine light? I am a little fuzzy...does anyone have some pictures of the thing that need to be removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 As long as you keep the relay and the solenoid connect to power everything else can be removed. - Remove the vacuum lines and cap the tree - remove the pump and cap the intake - remove the check valve on the exhaust and plug the hole. Don't over think it...Connected*** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Matt Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 When you say Relay where is this located? I know about the solonoid as it is on top of the fan just left of the cold air tube that feeds the airbox. I know about the valve by the turbo. Now regarding the valve by the turbo. Can I just pull all that out cap the exhaust? Side note: What is all stuff under the battery tray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.