optimus prime Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 yes i did it exactly like in the picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 also the pump is slightly different than the on on the 98 the 97 pump has one blue wire that goes to the connector and the black wire goes straight to ground on a bolt. The air pump relay on your car is a big relay that mounts to the air pump (on the air pump bracket). Did you leave that relay plugged in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimus prime Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 the one thats right next to the air pump plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 The relay that the blue wire from the air pump plugs into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimus prime Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) it plugs into a white piece that there are two other plugs in Edited March 7, 2013 by optimus prime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 That's the air pump relay. The blue wire from the air pump should be unplugged, but the other 2 connectors stay connected. Also that relay is known to fail, so that could be the problem also..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimus prime Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 anyway to delete the relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 The relay has to stay, but you could probably do away with that big ass relay and use the much smaller relay from an X70. The small relay wouldn't be plug-n-play (you would need to wire it correctly), but it's much smaller and could be hidden easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimus prime Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) ok so i was just looking at it and the wire from the center plug is worn bare about an inch from the plug and corroded might not be working what is that wire going to? im guessing something that is causing the sas code maybe? im going to strip crimp and heat shrink it tomorrow Edited March 7, 2013 by optimus prime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 what is the resistance on the relay. Idono if it's possible to install a resistor in place of the relay and still keep the ECU happy. Or you could flash a new BIN file to your computer without SAS and call it a day haha. although you have CEL and readiness checks down there in southern Maine. Past Wiscasset, we don't have CEL or readiness inspection requirements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimus prime Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Lol im stickered already i had no cel last week.it popped so i figured id get on it now and if the pump wasnt the failing component i could sell it for 100 plus shipping on ebay. No cel this morning after a 16 mile drive after messing with the relay last night. Gonna crimp the wire and go from there.And just checked after i posted this and it popped again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
optimus prime Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 crimped sealed cleared the sas code went for a drive started it and turned it off a few times still no code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmsteele Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I'd just like to chime in that I did this mod last week on my 1998 V70 T-5M (I jumped the wires under the ECU) and just got my car smogged in Los Angeles (Smog capital of America) at a Star Station and it passed no problem! I removed the pump from under the battery and plugged the vacuum line but left all else in place. (I mainly did it because my battery had boiled over and essentially killed the pump. And $2 sounded better than $150 or so I'm not someone who wants to delete all smog devices per se). BTW, as my car had been "unplugged" I even tested with my car not in a state of readiness- but no worries! Because the 850s and late century V70s are listed as problematic and will pass even if not in readiness! That is if all else is ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brick Guy Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 What's is the difference between doing this and adding the sas delete option to the ARD tune? T5Power, I belive I have your old S70 now, picked it up from Steve in Philly this past weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 ARD is software which removes the need for anything hardware. This is a hardware fix that tricks the ECU. Either way doesn't matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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