Brick Guy Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Quick question for Lucky or whomever else can answer this. I wasn't aware that T5power had done this until some searching today pulled up his classified from when he sold the car. When I order my tune, will I still need the SAS delete option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 So you are missing the air pump? And what about the solenoid?If so, yes, you would need either the software delete, or the hardware delete as documented in this thread. If the car already has a tune from someone that included a software delete, I don't think you would need to repurchase that option when changing tunes with the tuner, but that's up to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brick Guy Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Not sure. I just saw T5power's post of him deleting it. I'm not sure what was removed. It's still running a stock tune and I was planning on deleting it before I found out. Wasn't sure if the diode install was in the ecu itself or the wiring harness. Sorry if I come of as incompetent, electrical isn't my strong point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Is this the post you are referring to?just got my extra ECU today. looks like i'll be modifying my stock one to do this! thanks OP for the writeup. looks super simple.and aaron, you'll probably be the one to help me get the air pump out in the coming weeksTo answer your original question, if the resistor is on the harness, you don't need the option from the software tuner. If it's on the ECU, you'd want them to apply the tune to that ECU and not do a core exchange.You can verify what was done pretty easily, just be patient and slow. The old plastic will be brittle, so take your time. Static electricity can damage electronics, so be careful not to touch the green board and associated materials. Frankly, I've seen a lot of people not care about that with older equipment they don't care about. It seems pretty hard to kill a board by touching it, but, it is still possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brick Guy Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Yep, that's the one. just did the delete on my T5A and T5M ECU's. thanks so much for posting this up!! hopefully everything went well. did everything as posted. I think this one answers which one it's on. So if it's on the tune then it's a no no to have them flash that one, and I can't send the old one back since it's been "tampered" with, right? Thanks again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 It's just a diode across two pins..all my ecus have it.. Shouldn't be an issue for anyone tuning it and if you buy a new tune just solder the diode across the pins when you get it. It's only a few cents.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepsouth Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) This write-up inspired me to join the board! It worked perfectly. I did the mod on both my 1998 V70 AWD and 1998 S70. I disconnected the pump and capped the vacuum lines but waited until 3,000 miles to pull the actual parts out. Hardest part in my opinion? Removing the rusted coupling in the DP. It was a SERIOUS PIA that required a can of Deep Creep, a 22mm crow's foot, 24" breaker bar, and a lot of beer. Found the M16 1.5 bung plug at Advance. Autozone didn't carry it. Sure enough my pump was filled with water (was throwing a 410 code). If only I could track down the p0455. I've replaced all the usual culprits and am about at my wits end as it only throws it every 200 or so miles. Anyway, thanks guys--GREAT JOB with this!!!! Edited May 2, 2013 by deepsouth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Just read through the whole thing again, since I will be doing this on the '98 V70 I bought to turn over. Sorry, but I have to chuckle at all those who assumed the delete diode will fix ANY problem with the SAS. As Jeff pointed out, the relay and solenoid are required, so if you are doing this because you ALReADY have an 0410 code, then it behooves you to FAULT trace the system BEFORE applying the mod, and then Whining that you still have a CEL. This is a proven fix. I wish I hadn't had to sift through half the posts whining about a continued code when no diagnostics had been performed. The two things that could be added to the original post are the part numbers for the non-SAS smog sticker, and the rubber grommet for the air box lid, both numbers have been contributed by members - 9180870 is the grommet, 93430401 is the sticker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlausC Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 Finally! After mumbling to myself for a month after soldering the ECU and plugging the vacuum line and disconnecting the wire from the air pump, I replaced the relay on my 1996 854. The original relay didn't have any innards left!! A junk yard version only cost $2 and the P0410 is gone. What is this 'grommet' at the air box? I do want to get rid of the air hose, or at least plug it up. Suggestion to some that get EVAP codes after playing around with the SAS pump. There is a vacuum line for the charcoal cannister that gets pretty close to the pump. It is possible to pull the vacuum line loose at the side of the radiator connector. Please check this before you blame the SAS delete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98v70t5man Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 How does the aluminum floor under the ECU separate to expose the wiring harness? Loads of pressure and bending plastic box's tabs carefully won't budge. Thx experts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod'sT-5 Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Gently pry the locking lever so it will pivot over the heat sink bumps, and move it out of the way. Then there are 4 tabs to straighten, then the cover will come off Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 How does the aluminum floor under the ECU separate to expose the wiring harness? Loads of pressure and bending plastic box's tabs carefully won't budge. Thx experts! Pry the entire 'floor' out of the plastic casing by levering where the visible plastic tabs are located. Once the aluminum plates are free of the housing, the forward section can be hinged/pivoted upward & separated from the back section & flipped over to access the two wires. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod'sT-5 Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Sorry! Misunderstood. I thought you wanted to open the ECM, not the case it goes into. Much, much easier to put the diode into the ECM. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Girlfriend's '97 GLT finally threw "OK" on all of the monitors, after 4500 miles! Including the SAS monitor :-) What a great mod. Cleaner engine bay too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldponcho Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Pry the entire 'floor' out of the plastic casing by levering where the visible plastic tabs are located. Once the aluminum plates are free of the housing, the forward section can be hinged/pivoted upward & separated from the back section & flipped over to access the two wires. Thanks for the tip, we got it worked out this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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