ianmcc Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 They all have the same 1.1V voltage drop. Thus going with a 1N4004 should work since it's rating it just to handle higher voltage, with the same spec for 1.1V which is all your looking for. That's the answer I am looking for. Will do the install tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlapShot Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 (edited) If I have an ARD Blue tune with the SAS delete in software, does the diode mod do anything for me additionally? Reason being I noticed the last time I plugged in Vol-FCR I had two codes but no CEL: EFI-442, EFI-448. The relay and solenoid are still plugged in, just the pump has been removed. I capped the solenoid where it would lead to the valve on the exhaust, but it it is still getting vacuum from the tree. Edited May 6, 2014 by SlapShot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mags98c70 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 If I have an ARD Blue tune with the SAS delete in software, does the diode mod do anything for me additionally? Reason being I noticed the last time I plugged in Vol-FCR I had two codes but no CEL: EFI-442, EFI-448. The relay and solenoid are still plugged in, just the pump has been removed. I capped the solenoid where it would lead to the valve on the exhaust, but it it is still getting vacuum from the tree. I'm no expert on this topic...but I swear I read you have to remove the vacuum line to the tree, and cap off the tree. Maybe someone else will chime in for more advise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Yup, cap the vacuum tree and remove those lines! only takes 5mins and your asking for trouble leaving that hooked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mags98c70 Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Finally got to doing this mod about 2 weeks ago. Very well written. Thanks for the input everyone. I think that I did it right... However, I just popped a code for P0133, front O2 sensor (slow response). Nothing in the code reader for the SAS system, so I know that's all good. YAY! Hopefully the O2 code is unrelated... but makes me worry since the other pin that the diode was soldered to was for the front sensor. I will change the front sensor this afternoon and see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Are you 100% sure you put the diode in the right direction? And not backwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mags98c70 Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) Are you 100% sure you put the diode in the right direction? And not backwards? I'm almost 100% positive. I swapped out the O2 sensor yesterday afternoon. No CEL yet, but it did take about 600 miles to come on after the mod. If it returns, I'll remove the ECU and take a look...crossing my fingers for now. Update: 800 miles and no CEL. I think I'm all good. Excellent write-up. Thanks. Edited July 6, 2014 by mags98c70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSkoolMadSkilz Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks for this writeup. Took a LONG time to get readiness to come up despite doing the procedure in the Volvo TSB, but I finally passed emissions. Best thing is that my mileage went up 15%! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 So is it just me, or is the video on this page in the DIY section, telling people to solder the wrong pins? http://volvospeed.com/install_performance_parts_how_tos/performance_guides/sas-delete_air-pump.html I actually didn't find this, someone else posted it, but I looked and it sure seems like the video does not agree with the still images. And I know the images are right ... That video is wrong. I think Keaton85 might have caught that and mentioned it somewhere earlier in this thread. Just for the record, that's not my video. The guy who did that video, even though he can't count, has much better soldering skills than I do Chuck should take the video down, that is going to screw up a LOT of people. No video is much better than wrong video. I think I PMed him a while back about it but no responds.... I just raised the question. It's really stupid to leave that video up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigapaw Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 joined the forum just to thank you for this mod soldered the diode, cel off for 2 weeks now it used to be back on in 2 days all i did was unplug the pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Any update on the P0133 code? Same exact thing happened to me. Waited until the month my emissions were due (like an idiot) to solder in the diode. A couple days later I pass the SAS monitor!.. But only to find an Evap leak code still left. Fixed that then, Boom! "front O2 sensor slow to respond" CEL shows up. Just replaced the front O2 sensor so crossing my fingers the freaking readiness monitors will set soon, and I'll have no more CELs! I'm already 3 days overdue on renewing my registration and am sweating bullets every time I drive. I HATE getting pulled over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 I'm already 3 days overdue on renewing my registration and am sweating bullets every time I drive. I HATE getting pulled over.Do you need your emissions testing to be current in order to renew your registration? In MA, you do not, but I can't find any info about that in Georgia. And if you meant your emissions testing needs to be renewed, can't you go fail and buy yourself a 30-day grace period? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Yes, I need emissions to be current. Problem is I am already in the 30 day grace period, but still have a week or two. I think my mistake was showing up knowingly with a CEL for a bad O2 sensor. I have a sneaky suspicion that if I would have cleared the codes then showed up they would have said, "Oh you have a 98 Volvo with problems getting readiness. You don't have a check engine light on so you're good." But since I showed up with it they had no choice but to fail me and they are not extending the same grace to me now that my readiness isn't set. It's been 2000 miles since I soldered the diode, 1600 miles since I cleared the O2 sensor code, and 200 since the new front O2 sensor. I'll update when something happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 So you have no CEL's currently? Just need the monitors to reach ready state? Do you know that yours aren't ready, or are you just concerned they aren't? Have you attempted a drive cycle reset sequence? There's some info about it in this thread: '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob82pigdog Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 (edited) Correct, no CELs but still need monitors to reach ready state. Currently 3 are ready and 5 are not. I am allowed to have 2 not ready ready and still pass. I have been plugging up my Harbor Freight scanner every time I reach a destination to check on things. I have read some of the readiness procedure threads and have tried my best on several occasions, but it's pretty ridiculous. I don't know how people are able to even come close to following the steps on public roads. I haven't seen the one you posted though, I'll read through it. Thanks. Edited October 4, 2014 by bob82pigdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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