bob82pigdog Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 So 3,600 miles ( ) in after I soldered in the diode on my ECU harness, I still have 5 monitors not ready two of which include O2 sensor and SAS. I know these cars take a long time to set the readiness monitors, I did the stupid 'readiness' procedure twice and it didn't work. No way it's gonna happen again, the roads around me don't really allow it. I am starting to worry that something might have gone wrong with my SAS delete diode install. I have already seen the SAS readiness monitor get set once about 300 miles after I soldered the diode in, but that was at the same time my CEL came on. After finding an evap leak and replacing the front O2 sensor, 3,600 miles later still no readiness. The 5 monitors that are incomplete are Catalyst Monitor, EVAP system monitor, SAS, Oxygen Sensor Monitor, and Oxygen Sensor Heater (?). I know the SAS delete diode involves an 02 sensor wire. Could the diode somehow be screwing with the O2 sensor readiness? Is there something fishy going on? Or do I need to just suck it up and keep driving until they reset? Here are some shots of my scanner: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosundance Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 For anyone interested, I performed the SAS delete mods on my '98 S90/960 today. I soldered a 1n4007 inside my ECU following the directions at the beginning of the thread. I didn't have a MIL before doing the mod and I've only performed the mod because I want to remove the SAS pump and hardware to clean up my engine bay and avoid future problems with the SAS system. I have only driven the car a couple dozen KM since the mod but no MIL so far. I will update after I have driven several hundred KM to say if it works for me or not. I see no reason why this mod will not work on the M4.4 960/S/V90 cars too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluewater Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 For anyone interested, I performed the SAS delete mods on my '98 S90/960 today. I soldered a 1n4007 inside my ECU following the directions at the beginning of the thread. I didn't have a MIL before doing the mod and I've only performed the mod because I want to remove the SAS pump and hardware to clean up my engine bay and avoid future problems with the SAS system. I have only driven the car a couple dozen KM since the mod but no MIL so far. I will update after I have driven several hundred KM to say if it works for me or not. I see no reason why this mod will not work on the M4.4 960/S/V90 cars too. I have a 97 960. I am very interested in your mod. Please let us know how it works after you drive your car for more KM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluewater Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 I have a P0410 code in my 97 960. I went ahead to solder the diode in my ECU. After 120 miles, no more code. Thanks for the mod! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mags98c70 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Great thread, but I've got a question... My father just picked up a 97 850 glt wagon. It had a CEL for our favorite code here. I tried to do this mod, and I am having an issue. I soldered the diode inside the ECU, unplugged the air pump, and cleared the CEL. Now I am getting a CEL, but when I plug in my scanner, there are no codes registered. Cleared several times, but when I shut off and turn on the car. The light comes back. I did this mod to my 98 C70 about 20k ago without any issues. Any help here....am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 So, I did the delete last night on my '98 S70 T5 by soldering a diode between A32 and A37 (not A33 to A38 which almost got me to do it wrong from the YouTube video and I'd bet the reason for other's having codes now). The SAS pump had been screeching and I knew it would go soon. After the delete I also unplugged the power to the SAS pump Everything is working as described since the delete I am leaving the air pump as is. I have not pulled off any vacuum lines. My question is, is pulling off the hoses and capping them really necessary? I might get a smidgen more boost? What real benefit will that get me? The car should act as if it did when the air pump wasn't running right? I might get a smidgen more boost or is there something else? I have an IPD upgraded T5 ECU BTW.... You're input is appreciated- I'm trying not to over-think this thing as many have already done here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 If you keep the vacuum hooked up it will make exhaust fumes go toward the pump. Either remove them or just flip the one way valve right before the solenoid. That way it will look all stock of that's what your going for. In my opinion, removing every last trace will free up a lot of space. I even put a 10watt 30ohm resister in place of the solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Thanks Keaton- I'm just basically lazy and don't need the extra space plus my car is 240K and I do mostly city driving now- job and back and a little around town. At my age (55 next month), I'm not going for the 0-60 in 6 seconds anymore. LOL. I think I'll just remove the line from the solenoid and cap that spot on the vacuum tree and put duct tape around the inlet to the air box from the SAS pump and call it a day. That sounds simple enough! One day I'll need to fix the vacuum leak under the battery that is keeping my cruise control from working and I might find a reason for wanting more space down there. At that time I will probably work on deleting the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nautic_Wagon Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 My air pump system was fully functional. I removed it when I installed my OBX exhaust. I didn't want to modify the DP (by adding a bung) to make provisions for the air pump. Also I hope to soon install a FMIC and removing the pump will free up space for that. I removed everything except #18 the solenoid valve. Make sure you leave the electrical connection attached..... So everything in this photo can be removed? and what does it mean by leaving the #18 connector in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 So everything in this photo can be removed? and what does it mean by leaving the #18 connector in? #18 in the parts schematic is the solenoid valve. I left the solenoid valve on the car with the connector plugged in. Others have removed the solenoid valve and attached a 30ohm resistor to the connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Must be a high wattage resistor - not your standard low watt style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misa Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 I soldered the diode inside the ECU, unplugged the air pump, and cleared the CEL. Now I am getting a CEL, but when I plug in my scanner, there are no codes registered. Cleared several times, but when I shut off and turn on the car. Any help here....am I missing something? If the car have automatic transmission it could be a code for transmission.You can't read those codes with standard scanner.At least you would need vol-fcr. Some auto transmission codes are presented via check engine light. The other possibility is that you have a specific volvo code which can't be read via standard obd II reader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Must be a high wattage resistor - not your standard low watt style The solenoid valve doesn't occupy much space. Almost seems silly to remove it and replace it with a resistor that's almost as big.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 The solenoid valve doesn't occupy much space. Almost seems silly to remove it and replace it with a resistor that's almost as big.... Mainly I did it back then so that it wouldn't look like there was something disconnected for NY inspection purposes - that hardly matters anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spreader Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) FYI for Ontario people on the fence about this. I ran a check engine light all winter (terrible around town fuel mileage) while waiting for my diodes to come in. I recently did the ECU mod. The MIL code reset immediately and the fuel management went into closed-loop status. Since then it's been 650km and I just passed my OBD-2emissions test (e-test)! Following are my Systems Monitored and their state: Ready: Misfire, Fuel System, Comprehensive Components Not-Ready: Catalyst, Evaporative System, Secondary Air, Oxygen Sensor, Oxygen Sensor Heater, EGR System Thanks alot for this thread. It's saved me time, money and frustration. EDIT: PM me and I'll mail you one of the extra diodes Edited March 23, 2015 by Spreader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.