Ed_r Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) Ok had the p0410 fault and soldered in the proper diode in the em, on the right pins. Drove the system readiness procedure twice. No p0410 so thats gone yea. Now i didn't disconnect anything, just removed the ecm, soldered the diode in place, and put it back together. Now after my readiness drives, I plugged into the OBDII connector and rescanned to see if the system was ready, and found there was a pending fault p0455, for a large emissions leak. This fault was not present before. I scrolled through all 25 pages of this post, and I've seen a few people come up with the p0455 fault after doing this mod. Did anyone ever figure out why this is happening? Is it just a coincidence after the mod? Actually the check engine light didn't come on yet, I just noticed the fault when I rescanned. I since cleared the p0455 fault. I'm going to put more fuel in the car, it was on ¼ tank. So maybe that has something to do with it. Any further insight? Edited April 21, 2015 by Ed_r 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T5power Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 Guys, I just did this in a 97 850 N/A. P0410 popped up immediately after I restarted the car and installed the diode. i checked twice that the diode was in the right direction, which it was. Any ideas? I have done this twice on 2 other ECU's (98 S70). Let me know........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afb3 Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Thanks for sharing this Volvo5.0! It will save me a lot of headaches and quite a bit of pocket change!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcass777 Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Ok I will go over this again... Keep: Vacuum solenoid above the fan and the relay up next to the strut towerRemove: Pump under battery, valve on the exhaust, vacuum lines to and from solenoid, and the hoses. BUT, if you don't want to bother plugging the hole in the intake box and the exhaust then you can leave the parts and just unplug the pump, and unplug the vacuum line from the tree and cap it. You DO NOT WANT to leave the pump or the vacuum plugged in or it might work half way and show the computer an even higher voltage drop! Also keep in mind if the valve on the exhaust is leaking and the pump was good when you did the mod, it will likely go bad. SO if the pump is useable ebay it! Also just a note, if anyone wants to have someone else do the mod, I can mod the ECU for you. Just shoot me a PM if interested....I read thru the entire post and did the mod. All seems fine but I want to make sure I disconnected the right stuff. Please tell me where or what the tree is. This is a lifesaver! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 The "tree" is the vacuum tree, it is mounted on the throttle body. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KamiKazie Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Just a thought to help peeps out, STUDY THIS RELIGIOUSLY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afb3 Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Finally up against the emissions inspection deadline. Completed the mod but am now still getting the P0410 code within a few minutes of clearing it. No other codes are being thrown. The diode is inside the ECM and in the right place and correct direction. I've unplugged all of the connections to the pump and I've put a blockage in the vacuum line between the tree and the solenoid, which is still plugged in. (I'm leaving things in place as I want it to look normal under the hood.) I've cleared the code a few times but it comes back pretty quickly. In terms of what I've done wrong, I had the wrong diode, a 1N4001 instead of a 1N4003, soldered in place for a few months (not sure how I misread that instruction in the first place but I've now replaced with the correct diode), I somehow also thought that I had to leave a "ground" wire attached to the pump so hadn't unplugged all of the wires from the pump. This also was the condition for over a month. So, I drove the car with that incorrect setup for a while and the CEL on the whole time. I finally cleaned up all the mistakes. Any idea whether having it done wrong for all that time might be causing my problem? Alternatively, any idea what else I might be doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Is the pump still plugged in? Pull all that stuff. I'd bet no one will notice the SAS is missing unless they are on these forums and pulled it themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Maybe you cooked the diode wile soldering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afb3 Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Finally had a chance to devote another morning to this to no avail. (Somehow, I'm not getting email notifications when replies get posted so apologies for the delay in holding up my end of the conversation.) On the diode, I did a voltage drop test across the diode from both the leads of the diode and the A32 and A37 pins to which it is soldered. Got a voltage drop of ~580 mA in the correct direction and no flow in the incorrect direction. Checked another diode from the same lot with the same multimeter and got consistent results. In short, I don't think I fried the diode. I pulled the vacuum line from the solenoid valve with the engine running and there was no vacuum coming out of the line. I still left it disconnected just in case some residual vacuum pressure (or lack of pressure) in the line was causing the valve to open and creating the bigger voltage drop. The pump is still unplugged. I started the car, cleared the code (P0410 Secondary Air Injection is still the only code being thrown) and sat in the car at idle for a few minutes. No CEL. Turned the car off, turned the car over, and the CEL came back instantaneously. It's throwing the the P0410 code again and nothing else. The only other thing I can see that seems out of the ordinary is that the OBDII reader takes a freeze frame of the readings on all the modules that presumably is from when the fault was thrown and it indicates a CL-Fault on Fuel Sys 1. (I think that means a closed loop fault?) That doesn't seem to generate any codes in its own right and I suspect it is not related and perhaps even the correct setting immediately on starting the car, but I thought I would mention it in case it sheds any light. Very frustrating not to get this fix to work but I'm so glad you guys are all here to help out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josephodrain Posted May 19, 2020 Report Share Posted May 19, 2020 Sorry for reviving this thread. Do any of you know what size bolt will fit in the exhaust manifold where the air valve connects after I remove it? Has anybody put another sensor there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majsterJelenia Posted July 18, 2021 Report Share Posted July 18, 2021 Hello, I have Volvo V70 1997 with engine B5254S. I think i have ecu 4.4. I've got P0410 error code. Can I insert 1n4003 between A32 and A37, turn my car, clear codes and thats all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majsterJelenia Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 (edited) I have a problem. I bought V70 from second hand and I got 410 code. I put diode in ECU, unplug pump, exhaust valve (somebody deleted it). Above cooling fan i have solenoid with violet and white line. Violet is cut and close but white running to my throttle. Should I close it - both ways? And shoild I leave solenoid above cooling fan with power cube plug in? please help @Keaton85 @Volvo5.0 Edited August 1, 2021 by majsterJelenia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowkeyturbo Posted September 2, 2021 Report Share Posted September 2, 2021 No need to do this complicated procedure. Simply remove the pump and all sensors and hoses and disable it from the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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