Yellow95 Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 So easy a dumbass can do it. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 I assume yes but can the sas solenoid plumbing be removed as well and the intake manifold port capped off? I'd leave it plugged in of course... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 I assume yes but can the sas solenoid plumbing be removed as well and the intake manifold port capped off? I'd leave it plugged in of course... Intake manifold port? DO you mean vac port? Um, just a rubber cap. I removed all the plumbing when I did the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 :lol: Vacuum port on the intake manifold, right below where the FPR vacuum line attaches and runs over toward the timing area. I was working in that area today and wondered if that plumbing could come out, I'll have to remove it and just leave the solenoid plugged in next time I'm in the area. The solenoid is under that overhang by the upper I/C pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithwicks Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 Wired in the diode below the ECU today. So far so good. Only thing Im wondering about is what plug you need to pull to disconnect the SAS pump itself. Is it the white connector in front of the battery down a little bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 yep, thicker connector i electrical taped mine really good to be safe after removing the pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithwicks Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Well I guess my delete worked/didnt work. I wired in the diode a couple days before I moved out to San Diego, CA from Milwaukee, WI. The entire trip out there was without incident and it wasnt until the morning after I had arrived that my CEL popped. It was two weeks before I was able to swing by a mechanic and have the codes checked. (CA is weird and autozones/ auto parts stores wont let you borrow a code reader). Or at least the ones I went to wouldnt let me quick check my codes. Mechanic came back with two codes, one for a barometric sensor failure which I wasnt surprised by and the other was for a seized air pump. He didnt actually give me the code numbers which might have helped...This weekend Ill probably check down in the area where I wired in the diode and see if something popped lose for some reason... Luckily all I did after wiring in the diode was disconnect the air pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmcm Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 A+++ This mod is great(as is this site). 500 miles and no more code. As a small thank you to anyone interested I have an extra diode that I am willing to send (free) to anyone that is going to do this mod. Send me a private message with your address(first come first serve). Thanks again to the smart folks who figured out this fix and all who discussed it on this site. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Well I guess my delete worked/didnt work. I wired in the diode a couple days before I moved out to San Diego, CA from Milwaukee, WI. The entire trip out there was without incident and it wasnt until the morning after I had arrived that my CEL popped. It was two weeks before I was able to swing by a mechanic and have the codes checked. (CA is weird and autozones/ auto parts stores wont let you borrow a code reader). Or at least the ones I went to wouldnt let me quick check my codes. Mechanic came back with two codes, one for a barometric sensor failure which I wasnt surprised by and the other was for a seized air pump. He didnt actually give me the code numbers which might have helped...This weekend Ill probably check down in the area where I wired in the diode and see if something popped lose for some reason... Luckily all I did after wiring in the diode was disconnect the air pump. Did you ever follow up? My bet is on the diode has shorted out or there is bad soldering... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Did you ever follow up? My bet is on the diode has shorted out or there is bad soldering... I would like to know as well. I have a bunch of these systems deleted through out the family without any codes (pending or mature). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj240 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I did this mod months ago...works great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted September 15, 2011 Report Share Posted September 15, 2011 Also, just an FYI. The plug for the exhaust works great without having a gasket! I tried to find a nice copper crush washer without any luck. Although I did not cut the bolt down at all which should be done since it does protrude into the exhaust pretty deep. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverx1 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Is this mod the same for a 98 N/A??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T5power Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 (edited) Is this mod the same for a 98 N/A??? yes if the N/A even has SAS.. Edited October 14, 2011 by T5power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 17k on this mod..still works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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