andyb5 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 if the N/A even has SAS.. They do indeed have SAS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Seriously was just thinking about this today. Got in my car next to a V70 NA with a noisey dying air pump, and thought how nice it is not to be resetting my CEL every 60 miles. BIGGGG :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostnm3 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 im going to do mine this weekend, thanks for the info, my sas pump is broken and loud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850wagonT5 Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 I did the A32-A37 diode trick on a friend's '98 S70 that was throwing a P0410 CEL (SAS). At first, I was afraid because it wasn't passing the drive cycle readiness checks - this normally was done within 30 miles of an ECU reset. After the diode, it took 165 miles of driving but it finally did complete the readiness checks and the CEL is long gone (remember, if the readiness checks don't complete, it can't be smogged!). Thank you for taking the time to figure this trick out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverx1 Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 This is exactly what this site is about!! An excellent mod, well written and explained I did mine this am in about 20 min. Thanks to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 I did the A32-A37 diode trick on a friend's '98 S70 that was throwing a P0410 CEL (SAS). At first, I was afraid because it wasn't passing the drive cycle readiness checks - this normally was done within 30 miles of an ECU reset. After the diode, it took 165 miles of driving but it finally did complete the readiness checks and the CEL is long gone (remember, if the readiness checks don't complete, it can't be smogged!). Thank you for taking the time to figure this trick out. Most states with emissions testing have, on record, that Volvo Motronic can have problems setting monitors and will either exempt it after certain number of attempts or offer a tailpipe test (that's what I had to do for my evap monitor that seems to NEVER set). This SAS mod should have no problem setting after a couple of drive cycles, just don't do the mod and drive to the station right away.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimpleeDaBesst Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Totally Awesome Mod, Will Try it 170,000 miles on 98 S70 2.3, going for inspection next week, I wonder how many miles I have to drive for the Ready state? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KS855R Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Sorry perhaps this is a stupid question but what do you gain by deleting the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Sorry perhaps this is a stupid question but what do you gain by deleting the pump? Would you rather pay hundreds to repair the system or 99 cents to completely remote it forever? 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Sorry perhaps this is a stupid question but what do you gain by deleting the pump? You gain several things: Extra space, typically used for FMIC pipe routing, or maybe space for a water/meth injection reservoir. Less tubes running across your engine/bay making it easier to work on, like the SAS valve is in somewhat of a difficult place. If you want an aftermarket downpipe, you don't have to factor in the SAS valve bung and position. And just as "please delete" said, the shit breaks all the time and costs quite a bit of money for a system that really doesn't provide a lot of functionality. In some states, it isn't even requried typically through exemption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BtownVolvo Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Soldered mine up tonight and disconnected the vac lines. Going to do Jeriads (Jwoo601)'s tomorrow and see where this gets us since we were both throwing CELs for it. Thanks for the slick write-up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Would you rather pay hundreds to repair the system or 99 cents to completely remote it forever? bing finally gets +1's lol 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BtownVolvo Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Quick question. This is only supposed to show it as ready and the air pump will continue working as if nothing happened, right? Reason I ask is I did the diode fix and I still hear the air pump come on. Admittedly I haven't had a chance to check and see if the code came up (i still have a P0455 lit) but just wanted to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 As long as the relays arent shot you can simply rip out the system and beat the piss out of it with a golf club. That is what I did. I removed the pump, pulled the + & - out of the pump it self, put electrical tape on them, left all wiring & relays. beat pump like it owed me money. The ONLY time I ever got a code was on a cold morning once every 6 months when it would typically come on and help heat up my non existent catalytic converter to help it become efficient earlier. I assume this would cause my P0455 like BtownVolvo but I based it off the fact that the 02 sensors are preparing to detect a change causing it to shut off the 1st one, after nothing is changed because my pump isnt pumping warmer engine bay air into my pretend catalytic converter it goes ahead and assumes the SAS pump took a dump. Since I have had an ARD tune & it may or may not have been deleted for off road use only. Prior to the delete via tune all I did was remove the pump itself (the OBX Downpipe didnt have a bung for SAS anyways so yea) and leave the power leads to the pump taped up. There is no way for the car to know if the Pump is actually using the power from the signal sent. The relay closes and says GO GO GADGET PUMP. it doesnt know that the pump isnt actually in there because its still sending the signal... just to nowhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeedyRom Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Just read through this thread. Haven't done it to my car. I wanted to research the fix a little more before I modified my ECU. Here are some quick screenshots that I took from VADIS: Basic understanding of the 02 sensor tells us that it receives a fluctuation between 0.1v and 0.9 volts. This is how it reads how much fuel is in the exhaust. Pretty simple stuff. When the valve is active, the relay sends "U-low" to the ECU. When it is not active, it gets battery voltage. Seems pretty straightforward. So this is where I get confused. Why are we relaying the O2 sensor 0.1v-0.9v fluctuation to the SAS control signal? Wouldn't it be better to use a resistor from a ground? I'm not an electrical engineer by any means. I don't claim to be an expert. So I'm hoping someone with more knowledge than I can chime in with an opinion. I feel like this would be a more efficient route than just splicing into the O2 control signal. I'm also wondering if this would affect engine performance by messing with the numbers the O2 is reporting to the ECU. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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