mjmoore Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Soldering a diode from A32 and A37 wires in the ECU works. No SAS code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peppuz Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 If I'm reading correctly, this write up would apply to the '97 850. Has there been any success in finding a similar modification for the '96 850? Or perhaps I'm stuck with replacing the air pump? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 If I'm reading correctly, this write up would apply to the '97 850. Has there been any success in finding a similar modification for the '96 850? Or perhaps I'm stuck with replacing the air pump? Thanks in advance. The SAS mod works on cars with Motronic 4.4. '96 was a split year, turbos were all M4.3 (I think) and N/A's could go either way. Don't think M4.3 used an air pump. If the car has an air pump, it's M4.4 and the mod should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revolvolution98s70 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 ok, so ive been running around for 12k miles with the delete working properly. i still have all the parts in but pump disconnected and a few of the lines are out and plugged up. im thinking about taking everything out. i did a rad replacement and the air pump was a pain to work around. i know i can remove everything but the solenoid, but id like to know how to plug the line that goes to the exhaust if i take it out the valve above the turbo. it seems to be a metal tube and not sure if its safe to simply put a rubber plug on the exhaust after i take the whole system out. how did you guys go about it and have you run into inspection problems when the obvious valve is missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 If you put a rubber plug in the downpipe you will have a smelly smoky mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revolvolution98s70 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 im talking about parts 10, 11, 12 ,13 and 34. if both the inlets to the valve are plugged up, its pretty obvious, so id like to take it out completely. so at part 34, what do i do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Put a M16 drain plug in there and call it a day. you can get them at advance auto parts, pretty cheap. I don't use a washer since it rusts itself on there and never had any come loose on any vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I just removed this (and everything else except the solenoid ) That part 34, the SAS valve pipe is a bitch. I soaked it in PBblaster 3 days in a row, had the engine completely out of the car, and still found breaking that thing loose from the downpipe was difficult. And I was torching it. Recommendation is to soak, and then torch the outer base of the downpipe with a blowtorch just before you remove it. This will heat up the metal, expanding it and usually helps remove stuck parts. Again, the goal is to heat the downpipe area, not the 'bolt' itself, because you want to expand the hole, not the bolt. I planned to find a bolt or bung plug to screw in there but didn't come across one and was in a hurry. So I chopped the pipe at the base, pinched it shut with a table vice and screwed it back in. So far, so good Eventually I'll get a plug. I cannot say enough how happy it makes me to know that all of this shit is finally out of the engine bay. What an absolute clusterfuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 It's not even the expansion, is the movement of the metals when you get them really hot and then cool them down fast with water. Doing so a few times will break the rusty seal that the threads make with eachother. I just do it when the exhaust is really hot or most times it comes off without messing with it at all. Also I use a dremmel and cut the hose BEFORE trying to take the plug out of the exhaust as the tube usually swings around being a major PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ande0549 Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Thanks to all of those who figured out this mod. My car used to sound like a jet-engine when my old air pump turned on which was kind of cool but also somewhat embarrassing. I proceeded to fix it by buying a cheap used VW air pump and using this tutorial: http://www.___.com/air-pump-fix-tutorial-volvo.html Since then, I've picked up a Eurosport Tuning down-pipe which has a 3rd bung welded in but is sized for a wideband O2 sensor and wouldn't work (w/o adapters) for the SAS pipe connection. So, I'm deleting my SAS system in favor for the wideband sensor and enhanced tuning capabilities! I wish I would have known this mod was possible sooner. Making the decision to delete is easier since my state doesn't emissions test, even though members report that they pass theirs with this modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted May 14, 2012 Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 Now if someone can figure out a diode to solder in to delete the rear 02 sensor. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravisRay Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 Wow, read through these posts, and think that I know the answer ( yes it will) but I'd like someone to help me out, I have a 97 960 Wagon with about 180K, has the 6 cyl with the Motronic 4.4. The air pump is between the battery and the engine. I think this mod would work on the car, but can anyone give me a for sure on this? thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravisRay Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 I may have posted the wrong information. The car has the Motronic distributorless ignition system — B6304 engine. Sorry for the confucsion. I don't know if the ECM is the same or not, however, I believe the code it is showing for the air pump is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 The codes are all part of the OBD-II standard. So they'll be the same usually. The pump and system are probably the same too, given the same make and similar age. Here's the catch. This has been tested on the Motronic 4.4 ECU's for 850/X70 cars. So you'd need it to be an identical pin-out on the ECU. That I cannot verify, and while I think very few here can, you'll have to hope someone who knows will reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted May 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 The codes are all part of the OBD-II standard. So they'll be the same usually. The pump and system are probably the same too, given the same make and similar age. Here's the catch. This has been tested on the Motronic 4.4 ECU's for 850/X70 cars. So you'd need it to be an identical pin-out on the ECU. That I cannot verify, and while I think very few here can, you'll have to hope someone who knows will reply. Yeah, I only tested it on 850/X70's, but in theory it should work also with 960's and S/V90's. I just looked at the schematic for the 960/SV90, and it looks like the pinouts are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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