sconeman Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 (edited) hate to rain on your parade.... thats from an 03 T5 on SS, member "CAN210" Hmm I'd like to know what setup he had. Any rod can bend given the right (or rather wrong) conditions. (this is posted elsewhere on VS) stock 03 S60 egnine: (451 HP, 393 FT lb) Edited January 5, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impulse922 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Hmm I'd like to know what setup he had. Any rod can bend given the right (or rather wrong) conditions. (this is posted elsewhere on VS) stock 03 S60 egnine: (451 HP, 393 FT lb) if johann touches it, it doesnt count but really, i think it is more of a case of an optimistic dyno. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 (edited) if johann touches it, it doesnt count but really, i think it is more of a case of an optimistic dyno. do you mean this dyno or the one for the engine that went boom? Even if the fastech dyno is 10% optimistic we're still talking over 400 HP which is a lot more than you could squeeze out of a B5234T5 ... even if it were 20% off that would still apply. And the 02 hpt is clearly better in many ways over the 95 hpt. No matter the information is limited right now. Time, research and experimentation will flush out how robust the newer engines are. Edited January 5, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Hmm I'd like to know what setup he had. Any rod can bend given the right (or rather wrong) conditions. Bingo. He doesn't say how they bent in his thread on SS either, or what the setup they were used in was. Crank up the boost without fuel and timing changes to match could easily give you severe enough detonation to destroy even the h-beam rods. We know that the 139.5mm rods can withstand ~300ft-lbs pretty reliably. The 147mm rods are about 1.9mm wider, which is a pretty fair improvement in their bending resistance. Edit: The car was stock when it bent the rods. Something else must have failed to cause the rods to go. Parade-raining party has been averted :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 if johann touches it, it doesnt count but really, i think it is more of a case of an optimistic dyno. I only rebuild the car to the engine which is currently in it and sold the turbo to the current owner, his name is Sebastiaan, a while later. That's it. All the credits go to Sebastiaan. (period) About the optimistic dyno, I can understand why such a remark has to show up. I also know that this will be a never ending discussion. What i also know is that the people of Fasttech, including Sebastiaan, before they invested in their dyno system always have been under the impression that several dyno systems they have used or hired weren't showing everything. This sometimes for reasons that things like measured acceleration numbers didn't add up with the power figures measured. After they installed their own dyno system they have spend a lot of time optimizing cooling and log ECU data to see if things like MAF voltages and such didn't show unwanted side effects of insufficient cooling which often result is lower HP output but also very often shows very positive lower end torque numbers. Next thing is that the car in the video has made a ridiculous amount of dyno runs to date. Currently the car is at it fuel system limit outputting 470 crank HP and torque over 440 lb-ft. FYI it accelerates from 62 mph to 125 mph in 7 seconds. Still same engine which btw doesn't sweat at all, bone dry not a drop of oil to be found on the outside. I have seen this car on the dyno several times. It was beaten like no tomorrow and the results were very repetitive time and again which says something about the cooling used with this dyno. During higher ambient summer days some issues with temperature control show up but now with the freezing weather it's working very well. Sebastiaan's brother Marcel also drive's an S70® with a build engine and GT3076 turbo and I have seen this car repeat over 415 crank HP run after run on that same dyno for well over 2 hrs. Eventually they settled for 435 crank HP but during all the runs and tweaks the power curves showed stable power. No indication that things heated up to much. Even when taking a couple of % deviation in to account the numbers are still extreme for a stock engine. And of course Happy New Year to all!! 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impulse922 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 on his new build he plans on using an 18t, so i would assume it was done on a 16t. I just posted in his thread asking what exactly was going on. Re: dyno, when doug dyno'd his yellow, it turned out to dyno about 100 over. I'm suspecting something like that happened on the s70. I hate to be a nay-sayer, but there wasn't exactly a wealth of information posted about the s70 either. No matter what is going on with either of these builds, the rods still look mighty thin to be praising them when there is a lack of knowledge to go either way. I really wish it were otherwise(i drive an 03 T5), but i'm starting to get very skeptical. 1 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I only rebuild the car to the engine which is currently in it and sold the turbo to the current owner, his name is Sebastiaan, a while later. That's it. All the credits go to Sebastiaan. (period) Next thing is that the car in the video has made a ridiculous amount of dyno runs to date. Currently the car is at it fuel system limit outputting 470 crank HP and torque over 440 lb-ft. FYI it accelerates from 62 mph to 125 mph in 7 seconds. Still same engine which btw doesn't sweat at all, bone dry not a drop of oil to be found on the outside. I have seen this car on the dyno several times. It was beaten like no tomorrow and the results were very repetitive time and again which says something about the cooling used with this dyno. During higher ambient summer days some issues with temperature control show up but now with the freezing weather it's working very well. And of course Happy New Year to all!! I'm jealous My AWD still takes 11.5 to go from 60-120 including two gear shifts, that take at least a second each. I hope I can improve on that. Do you have any insight into the cam specs we are looking for in this Thread ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 on his new build he plans on using an 18t, so i would assume it was done on a 16t. I just posted in his thread asking what exactly was going on. Re: dyno, when doug dyno'd his yellow, it turned out to dyno about 100 over. I'm suspecting something like that happened on the s70. I hate to be a nay-sayer, but there wasn't exactly a wealth of information posted about the s70 either. No matter what is going on with either of these builds, the rods still look mighty thin to be praising them when there is a lack of knowledge to go either way. I really wish it were otherwise(i drive an 03 T5), but i'm starting to get very skeptical. He said it was bone stock earlier in the thread. It dyno'd 100 over what? Thin or not, they are thicker than the older rods that have shown to be good for 300ft-lbs at the wheels reliably. I don't know the exact changes in geometry, so I can't say what the actual increase in the second moment of area is, but an increase from 10.5 to 12.4mm could make it more than 50% stiffer... That's not insignificant ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 but there wasn't exactly a wealth of information posted about the s70 either. The white one in the video? 2003 B5234T3 engine and gearbox. GT3071 turbo on machined R/XC90 manifold with slightly ported wastegate opening connected to a Tial 38 mm external WG. Full 3" exhaust system. 625 CC injectors, Walbro fuel pump, 61 psi line pressure. 3" intake with an open cone filter and 3" MAF. All other is stock. Mapping, ME7, is made by Sebastiaan. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagonhawaii Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 The European guys just got it figured out. to be able to pull that much power reliably out of a bones stock bottom end in a Volvo is impressive. Would there be any way to find out what he did to make this possible the tunning? what did he do...... did he just re-tune the stock computer or did he use a stand alone? The European guys just got it figured out. to be able to pull that much power reliably out of a bones stock bottom end in a Volvo is impressive. Would there be any way to find out what he did to make this possible the tunning? what did he do...... did he just re-tune the stock computer or did he use a stand alone? Sorry just read through the last post. Is there any way to learn his secret and if so whats the price? :D 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 (edited) The European guys just got it figured out. to be able to pull that much power reliably out of a bones stock bottom end in a Volvo is impressive. Would there be any way to find out what he did to make this possible the tunning? what did he do...... did he just re-tune the stock computer or did he use a stand alone? Sorry just read through the last post. Is there any way to learn his secret and if so whats the price? he just took his setup to a reputable tuner and had it dyno tuned. You or anyone should be able to do the same. Key is get a 02 or later engine that way you get a majority of the revisions. Edited January 5, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Any pics of the back of the motor/head with the old cam sensor test fitted yet? Can't tell from this whether the upper ear for the cam sensor is even still there. I'm thinking it isn't, simply because the later torque mount base is exactly where the ear is on my old head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Any pics of the back of the motor/head with the old cam sensor test fitted yet? Can't tell from this whether the upper ear for the cam sensor is even still there. I'm thinking it isn't, simply because the later torque mount base is exactly where the ear is on my old head... sorry no progress today. I'm going over every other day. Alternating bookkeeping :tdown: with this project :tup: Not sure what I'm going to work on tomorrow but I'll get some pics for you of the process, whatever it turns out to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) I just got finished with a small project so in case you need a little escape from the drama caused by faulty Vendors here's some info on how to shorten your shift lever on 98 and earlier cars. BTW this can be done in your car...it's just much more difficult. The first step is removing the boot and knob, which is nearly impossible without this tool> CJ makes it and it's really difficult to use but is a better option than spending money on a Volvo tool or accidentally breaking your assembly. It really needs some revisions like the two pieces need to be hinged together and the handle needs to be a shape that doesn't cut into your hand. It's pretty much impossible to use the way it's designed. You can try yanking the knob off but chances are you'll pull the whole lever out of the assembly before you pull the knob off. First slip the tool under the boot and force it up under the 3 plastic prongs that hold the collar to the groove on the shaft.Then slide the boot down. I needed a hammer to force the tool into the prongs..it's also 45 degrees in the shop and plastic is not very forgiving at that temp. Then repeat that step with the knob which has 5 prongs and seems harder to do. Here are some pictures of how I did it. Upside down and hammered the tool into the shift knob. Careful not to do it so hard that you permanently damage the prongs which are, of course, made of plastic. Take a brief moment to rejoice in your amazing victory over the shift knobs tenacious grip! Ok, that's enough you don't want to jinx yourself. Now to figure out how much you want to cut off... last time I did this I cut one inch off, which is nice but I want moar shortness! So I'm going with an inch and a half this time. Note the distance between the grooves. 2 3/8" inches from top of shaft to bottom of first groove that the knob latches onto, 1 inch between that groove and the one that secures the boot collar. Measure your cut to shorten it... and cut with any available tool. angle grinder works nice Smooth the top edge.. I used a scotch brite deburring wheel but sandpaper will do. Cut your new grooves so that that they replicate the original location... 2 3/8" down from top and 3 3/8" down from the top. Make sure to carefully measure the distance between the new grooves and to make them 1 inch apart otherwise your knob and boot won't mate up together snug. I used the grinder and a Dremel cutting wheel to make the new grooves and the extend the keyway. The grinder is hard to use for this task, the dremel is easy. Use a dremel Finally smooth rough edges and then pull the boot up and snap the knob back in place. Voila! your shifter is now 1.5 inches shorter. Oh yeah, plan on using up two hours of your life to perform this incredible transformation (which really should only be done if you're planning to install one of my short shifter kits JK..but seriously your going to want to shorten the throw also :) Edited January 6, 2011 by sconeman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Nice shortening lesson...I want to do that but at this point I have NO patience..maybe I'll chop it with a grinder and put a momo knob on it!! BTW short shift kit feels NICE now...gonna turn the key tomorrow on mine..hope it starts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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