lookforjoe Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I'm trying to find one like what is shown online. Are all the aftermarket replacement versions square? It sure looks like it. If you buy a NEW one from Volvo (about $70) it's round & has a 2 year parts warranty. Food for thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 If you buy a NEW one from Volvo (about $70) it's round & has a 2 year parts warranty. Food for thought... Ah thanks! I just talked to volvo5.0 he's setting me up with a used round one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) Older style accessory support is attached with 6 bolts. New style is attached with 7 bolts. When mounting the old style to the newer block you can only use 5 of the 6 bolts. (5 out of 7 match up to the 6 holes on the older style support) new style with all accessories off. Newer style extends about 2 inches lower. Old on the new. Hadn't removed the thermostat housing yet. It actually fits but I think it's better to just swap over the older style housing for simplicity but mainly because of coolant lines. These are the 5 holes that match up. More than enough, but I'll be using threadlocker fo sho Onto the thermostats. Here are the side to side pics for y'all. You have to use old gasket. looks like I'll be needing a new H2O pump Here's the first set of pics for the cams: CPS out now I really need to get into VADIS and figure out what I'm doing with the cam. I got a little organized and going to start cleaning the head soon for paint: 1 of many piles lol Edited January 9, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 Very Cool. Thanks for all the pics, esp.of the head & coolant parts- helps me visualize what I'll be working with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) Very Cool. Thanks for all the pics, esp.of the head & coolant parts- helps me visualize what I'll be working with. sure, and once I get the blanking hub from Aaron and figure out how to remove the hub and CPS without rotating the cam I'll get pictures of that too---If anyone can offer some direction for that procedure I'd appreciate it as I have no idea what I'm doing and don't want to screw it up Very Cool. Thanks for all the pics, esp.of the head & coolant parts- helps me visualize what I'll be working with. are you swapping a newer head onto your built block? sorry If I missed a thread about it Edited January 9, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) sure, and once I get the blanking hub from Aaron and figure out how to remove the hub and CPS without rotating the cam I'll get pictures of that too---If anyone can offer some direction for that procedure I'd appreciate it as I have no idea what I'm doing and don't want to screw it up Kristian, you're really going to need a way to lock the cams at TDC at the rear after you take off the cam sensor and piece that bolts to the rear of the cam. I mean taking it apart won't be a problem since you have an impact. You can just zap the 55 torx bolt off of the VVT hub.. But there is nothing locating the hub to the cam, so when it goes back together the cam needs to be at TDC and the hub needs to be tightened at TDC also. Then since the gear that bolts to the hub has 3 slotted holes, you can play around with the cam timing if you want. Edited January 9, 2011 by Volvo5.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 I am impressed Kristian!!! . This is what I would be doing if I had the free time and money . Thanks for the great pictures of the head !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 You want to swap back to the 01 and older thermstat since that style you can still replace the $24 tstat compared to the 02+ where you have to replace the whole housing at a cost of $80 :blink: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) You want to swap back to the 01 and older thermstat since that style you can still replace the $24 tstat compared to the 02+ where you have to replace the whole housing at a cost of $80 speaking of that I've got a wonderful low mileage used thermostat for sale costs are adding up on this project I was putting a Tstat in the 98R yesterday. 15 minute job turned into 1.5 hour job when the cross threaded Tstat bolt wouldn't come out annoying way to wrap up the day. Of course I don't have the Tstat housing gasket. I am impressed Kristian!!! . This is what I would be doing if I had the free time and money . Thanks for the great pictures of the head !! Thanks! Yeah both of which i'm running out of quickly haha. You're welcome. I'm taking a litte extra time to document because I imagine lots of people will want to undertake this type of swap in the future. Kristian, you're really going to need a way to lock the cams at TDC at the rear after you take off the cam sensor and piece that bolts to the rear of the cam. I mean taking it apart won't be a problem since you have an impact. You can just zap the 55 torx bolt off of the VVT hub.. But there is nothing locating the hub to the cam, so when it goes back together the cam needs to be at TDC and the hub needs to be tightened at TDC also. Then since the gear that bolts to the hub has 3 slotted holes, you can play around with the cam timing if you want. Thank you. I don't want to screw this up.. I might wind up putting the engine in with the solenoid unplugged until I'm sure I know that I can do it right. IDK at this point. Edited January 9, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 sure, and once I get the blanking hub from Aaron and figure out how to remove the hub and CPS without rotating the cam I'll get pictures of that too---If anyone can offer some direction for that procedure I'd appreciate it as I have no idea what I'm doing and don't want to screw it up are you swapping a newer head onto your built block? sorry If I missed a thread about it I have a dual VVT head I'm cleaning up right now - I'm getting two hubs from Aaron Cam tool The inner bolt for the VVT seems to 'float' - it's not actually attached to the outer torx undoing it by hand I had to pull out on the hub for the bolt to come out of the cam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 The "outer torx" is a cover. Unbolt it from the Vvt housing to reach the "inner torx". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 do you have that tool ... if so can I borrow it for a day or two after I get the hub from Aaron? I have more questions but I'm reading more on VADIS first before I ask.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 The "outer torx" is a cover. Unbolt it from the Vvt housing to reach the "inner torx". AHA! The 'cover' didn't come loose from the hub when I undid it, but the hub/gear wasn't held in place, since the head is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 Thank you. I don't want to screw this up.. I might wind up putting the engine in with the solenoid unplugged until I'm sure I know that I can do it right. IDK at this point. If you can get your hands on the tool and the solid hub, you're good to go..... Set the motor to TDC and lock the cams with the lock tool. Remove the VVT hub. Take the gear off the VVT hub and bolt it to Aaron's solid hub, with the 3 bolts centered in the slots on the gear (allows for fine tuning the cam timing). With the cams still locked install the solid hub with the gear attached. Put the plastic cover on and line the mark on the gear with the mark on the cover. Torque the center bolt to 120 Nm. Install the t-belt. Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) If you can get your hands on the tool and the solid hub, you're good to go..... Set the motor to TDC and lock the cams with the lock tool. Remove the VVT hub. Take the gear off the VVT hub and bolt it to Aaron's solid hub, with the 3 bolts centered in the slots on the gear (allows for fine tuning the cam timing). With the cams still locked install the solid hub with the gear attached. Put the plastic cover on and line the mark on the gear with the mark on the cover. Torque the center bolt to 120 Nm. Install the t-belt. Done! hmm I wonder how much that tool costs... this is good information. I was intending/hoping to get all those details needed listed here for other people to do the swap. Edited January 9, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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