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850 T5M Project: 02 Hpt, M56, Tt, 19T...


sconeman

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Oh one more thing I'm having some VVT solenoid blanking plates made, in case anyone needs some. (aside from me) They're not going to be cheap because of the limited batch size but I'll do the best I can.

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How'd you clean that block, it looks great!

thanks. Its a bit of work :lol: I used a razor to scrape off gum, then scrubbed the entire head with degreaser and a plastic bristle brush.

P1100328.jpg

After that on to brass/steel wire brushes, 000 steel wool and then more dergreasing with a toothbrush :) Before I paint it I'll go over it with alcohol.

P1100541.jpg

Edited by sconeman
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Nice work!

I'll have to shave my steel bracket for that spring clip clearance - I don't want to leave it off unless I really have to.

I opted for the late style tensioner, and had to assemble/disassemble multiple times yesterday!

XRB5245TBeltRouting.jpg

The VVT blanking plate is fairly easy to make out of 3" x 1/4" aluminum plate - I used an old jig saw to cut mine out (killed 4 blades doing it, though) :D

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Nice work!

The VVT blanking plate is fairly easy to make out of 3" x 1/4" aluminum plate - I used an old jig saw to cut mine out (killed 4 blades doing it, though) :D

Wouldn't it be possible, and easier/cheaper, to use hard plastic instead?

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Wouldn't it be possible, and easier/cheaper, to use hard plastic instead?

you could use something like phenolic possibly, but I'd rather know for sure that the plate is never going to crack and spill oil everywhere. I'll look into it but also plastics and aluminum are typically similar price wise to machine and purhase.

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Nice work!

I'll have to shave my steel bracket for that spring clip clearance - I don't want to leave it off unless I really have to.

I opted for the late style tensioner, and had to assemble/disassemble multiple times yesterday!

The VVT blanking plate is fairly easy to make out of 3" x 1/4" aluminum plate - I used an old jig saw to cut mine out (killed 4 blades doing it, though) :D

re: vvt plate, yeah I'm not doing them myself though, no time or bandsaw, If I were cutting them myself that would cut cost down.

Hmmm so do you know if I could put the new tensioner on the older bracket? with the older style PS pump? I didn't try that.

The spring clip still works actually even with the plastic shaved. It gets stuck in there and there's really no way for it to come out once the bracket it on top of it. Still a small rivet would make it permanent

.... and had to assemble/disassemble multiple times yesterday!

I feel your pain :lol:

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re: vvt plate, yeah I'm not doing them myself though, no time or bandsaw, If I were cutting them myself that would cut cost down.

Hmmm so do you know if I could put the new tensioner on the older bracket? with the older style PS pump? I didn't try that.

The spring clip still works actually even with the plastic shaved. It gets stuck in there and there's really no way for it to come out once the bracket it on top of it. Still a small rivet would make it permanent

I feel your pain :lol:

It is possible to modify the old bracket to accept the new tensioner - but it requires welding in gussets & threaded bosses - there's not enogh material present to support it otherwise

XRB5254TensionerMod0002.jpg

XRB5254TensionerMod0004.jpg

the steel plate has to have a half moon cutout to work around the tensioner, you can kinda see it in my previous pic.

The problem you will run into using the old pump is that the pulley is larger, so the stock 99- belt will be too short, and I expect the '-98 belt will be too long. Since they are sold in many lengths, it should be possible to get one that's appropriate, but it likely won't be one listed for Volvo application.

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So basically it looks like there are 3 options here?

1 - use old bracket, modify it to accept new (mechanical) tensioner - use old-style PS pump and lines, but find different (non-OEM Volvo length) timing belt.

2 - use old bracket, use old style hydraulic tensioner and PS pump, bolt up to RN engine.

3 - use new bracket, use new style mechanical tensioner, use new (99+) steering pump and new style PS lines.

Is that right? If switching over to 99+ style PS pump, what else would be needed besides the lines?

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3 - use new bracket, use new style mechanical tensioner, use new (99+) steering pump and new style PS lines.

You would need the alt. and a/c compressor that go with the newer style bracket also. The alt. and a/c comp. mount different on the newer accessory bracket.

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You would need the alt. and a/c compressor that go with the newer style bracket also. The alt. and a/c comp. mount different on the newer accessory bracket.

I'll just stick with the old stuff, it'll work but would be a little neater/tidier with the newer accessories. I don't need any more bills for this project :lol:

It is possible to modify the old bracket to accept the new tensioner - but it requires welding in gussets & threaded bosses - there's not enogh material present to support it otherwise

the steel plate has to have a half moon cutout to work around the tensioner, you can kinda see it in my previous pic.

The problem you will run into using the old pump is that the pulley is larger, so the stock 99- belt will be too short, and I expect the '-98 belt will be too long. Since they are sold in many lengths, it should be possible to get one that's appropriate, but it likely won't be one listed for Volvo application.

yeah OK that's what I thought. I hadn't looked at it that carefully. Did you get a TIG welder or are you having this stuff done at your speedshop?

I don't want to pay shop time to have it modified. It'll be fine with all the older accessories and older tensioner.

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So basically it looks like there are 3 options here?

1 - use old bracket, modify it to accept new (mechanical) tensioner - use old-style PS pump and lines, but find different (non-OEM Volvo length) timing belt.

2 - use old bracket, use old style hydraulic tensioner and PS pump, bolt up to RN engine.

3 - use new bracket, use new style mechanical tensioner, use new (99+) steering pump and new style PS lines.

Is that right? If switching over to 99+ style PS pump, what else would be needed besides the lines?

Well it depends on what setup you're talking about. Hussein's setup is a little different than mine (02+ head on a 98 built engine) plus he's trying to fit that big ass tubular manifold and he's using the old style (T-belt tensioner too) which add to the confusion.

For my setup yes there are at least those three options.

Option 1. and 3. could wind up being the more expensive depending on what you have for parts laying around.

To answer your question options 2. and 3. also require that you get the newer reservoir and newer coolant lines. If you go with what I did (option 2) you just have to modify the plastic cover and then you can use the older style everything on the RN.

hope that helps.

Edited by sconeman
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Well it depends on what setup you're talking about. Hussein's setup is a little different than mine (02+ head on a 98 built engine) plus he's trying to fit that big ass tubular manifold and he's using the old style (T-belt tensioner too) which add to the confusion.

Just to clarify - I have the manual tensioner, not the hydraulic - but the unless you want to grind down the block, the later cover needed modding. '99 - on blocks have no provision for the hydraulic tensioner, since mid '98 was when it was introduced.

yeah OK that's what I thought. I hadn't looked at it that carefully. Did you get a TIG welder or are you having this stuff done at your speedshop?

I don't want to pay shop time to have it modified. It'll be fine with all the older accessories and older tensioner.

I paid $25 to have those bits welded, I didn't want to rely on the braised aluminum for something constantly under load (from the tensioner)

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I'll just stick with the old stuff, it'll work but would be a little neater/tidier with the newer accessories. I don't need any more bills for this project :lol:

I hear you! I ended up way over budget :o I think modifying the cover is definitely the easiest, most cost effective way around this obstacle, and looks just fine. I was just pointing out that Daniel's option 3 would need a few extra parts. :)

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