sconeman Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 I had to buy a new gear - the intake gear on my head was broken in shipping. New gears have no marking. My exhaust gear has no visible marking. I'll have to look at it more closely well at this point and with my limited experience with cam timing I'm glad there are marks on mine Still hoping to get over for a few hours tomorrow so I can work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) I got some time tonight to work on stuff. I marked the cams up so there's no way I would make any mistakes in case something went wrong.. which of course it did. here are the pics of the cam marks. I'm over documenting on pictures so that any questions can hopefully be answered. amount of adjustment in the cam Taking off the cam I marked it up in case the cam rotated and I got confused. So I started trying to remove the T55 bolt with the impact and something made me stop. I switched to the 1/2 drive ratchet and when I started applying pressure I realized the cam had moved! what the hell? Ohhhh..... I guess 1/8" bar isn't thick enough. Justin is sending his over (tomorrow right SO I moved onto the water pump, tensioner and idler. cleaned up an ready for the pump started putting the gear back on and things were not lining up right. Oh yeah the tab is bent on the tool. So I removed the tab on the exhaust cam and tried to rotate the cam with the wrench and it started moving the wrong way. I was getting a little worried but then I tried flipping the tab over and tightening it with whatever I had handy. That finally straightened the cam out and then I could put the belt back on. (so that I can take the tool off and replace it with Justin's) The edge of the cam groove got damaged slightly but I don't think it's going to matter, it's only the outermost 2mm that got bent at all. I started working on the CPS and Distributor as well but I realized I will need to move the old engine to TDC first so that I can get the location of the CPS correct. (Although I was wondering is it possible to use the newer CPS and change the plug or whatever??) Also I needed a larger drill for the cam it looks like I need a 29/64 or something around that. I'll post up pics of all that when I can get to it. Engine bay is degreased sufficiently, Transmission is degreased. Short shifter is installed. I was going to remove the sleave for the release bearing that was damaged when the bearing exploded or swap bell housings but since the bolts were stripping... my indie suggested smoothing and chamfering the grooves in the sleave. I did that tonight and it looks like it will work fine, the bearing moves freely up and down the shaft and there are no rough edges to catch on. before After clean(er) Edited February 8, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Always something, isn't it? Great pics, though ! I got some time tonight to work on stuff. I started working on the CPS and Distributor as well but I realized I will need to move the old engine to TDC first so that I can get the location of the CPS correct. (Although I was wondering is it possible to use the newer CPS and change the plug or whatever??) Also I needed a larger drill for the cam it looks like I need a 29/64 or something around that. I'll post up pics of all that when I can get to it. The CPS plate is offset, so it can only go on the cam one way, once you drill out the end Just make sure you file down the edges where the slot 'curled'. I found the marks on my gears - so I'll make them more prominent, and transfer the intake marking to the new gear in the same relative position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Always something, isn't it? Great pics, though ! The CPS plate is offset, so it can only go on the cam one way, once you drill out the end Just make sure you file down the edges where the slot 'curled'. I found the marks on my gears - so I'll make them more prominent, and transfer the intake marking to the new gear in the same relative position. you're talking about the newer style CPS right? because the older one only has two horizontal tabs. Anyone know which one I should use? I ordered the one on the left but I believe I need the (older??) style on the right. I'm using a single mass out of a 94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I thought you meant Cam Position Sensor, not Crank Position Sensor I believe if you are using the newer sensor (which is the only replacement part anyway) you have to invert the wires in the plug for it to register with the early flywheel. My Crank Sensor is retained by a standard 10mm hex head (M6 bolt), as long as the bolt length is good, I would use whatever you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) Major confusion! Sorry I'm jumping from one thing to the other. The bolts are for the flywheel. That was what the bolt question was about. Not sure which one to use. Edited February 8, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 left one is generally used on automatics. right one is the style used on manual cars. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(n)A-GAME Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 It shouldn't matter though, as long as you torque them properly. I asked Tasca if there was a difference between manual and automatic bolts and was told they were interchangeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 I started working on the CPS and Distributor as well but I realized I will need to move the old engine to TDC first so that I can get the location of the CPS correct. (Although I was wondering is it possible to use the newer CPS and change the plug or whatever??) You'll want to use the older style cam sensor. Like Hussein said, the cam sensor and distributor pieces have tabs that will locate them to the cams, so you don't really need the engine on TDC to install them. The groove in the cam is offset as well as the tabs on the sensor piece. Just make sure they go together properly and you're good to go.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 It shouldn't matter though, as long as you torque them properly. I asked Tasca if there was a difference between manual and automatic bolts and was told they were interchangeable. I wouldn't use those shorter bolts if they're intended for a flex plate!!! Volvo lists different bolt #'s between stick & auto, so I'd definitely go with what is listed for the application. I have new bolts for an SM at home, I can check the PN's later in the day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(n)A-GAME Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Well that's interesting. Looks like I'll have a phone call to be making then I would like that part number in any case. The bolts I bought are 9454743 which I was told are for manual flywheels, but I don't know for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Well that's interesting. Looks like I'll have a phone call to be making then I would like that part number in any case. The bolts I bought are 9454743 which I was told are for manual flywheels, but I don't know for sure. Checking here, that is the correct # (should be 26mm thread length), auto uses a 1275375 I'll compare that to what I bought when I get home later. EDIT: Same #'s Listed for '94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 left one is generally used on automatics. right one is the style used on manual cars. Ok thanks so I either ordered the wrong bolt or they sent me the wrong one. I'd never noticed that the autos had that shorter bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) Oh Ok I guess I wasn't that observant to notice that the groove was offset and since it was getting late I dropped the project for the day. Easy peasy.. as they say. I wouldn't use those shorter bolts if they're intended for a flex plate!!! Volvo lists different bolt #'s between stick & auto, so I'd definitely go with what is listed for the application. I have new bolts for an SM at home, I can check the PN's later in the day... yea I was wondering initially if there was a differnce between the SM and the DM bolts since I've naver taken a DM off I didn't know. That makes sense about the flexplate. I really hadn't noticed that they're shorter in the past. Edited February 8, 2011 by sconeman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Oh Ok I guess I wasn't that observant to notice that the groove was offset and since it was getting late I dropped the project for the day. Easy peasy.. as they say. yea I was wondering initially if there was a differnce between the SM and the DM bolts since I've naver taken a DM off I didn't know. That makes sense about the flexplate. I really hadn't noticed that they're shorter in the past. DM bolts are even longer - 46-48mm 9454744 Can't find my invoice - but the bolts I bought are internal 12point M11x26, along with the 6 allens for the PP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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