Chilled man Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 hmm I may need to dismount some tires to see if volans will fit. I've been thinking about white PC'd volans for the 850 Not sure why you would bother thou. I asked my PC I used and I wouldnt of saved any money. Since they cook off the coating first then if need beadblast the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt b Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Yup, probably much easier to have a PC'er do everything. They did the same thing with the Comets I just sold: bead blast, dip and PC. I would have never been able to do that for the amount they charged me ($75/wheel) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Yup, probably much easier to have a PC'er do everything. They did the same thing with the Comets I just sold: bead blast, dip and PC. I would have never been able to do that for the amount they charged me ($75/wheel) yeah I agree I'm actually not too interested in spending 3 hours bead blasting wheels with my 2.5HP compressor :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 since I'm too busy to actually work on my car I'm reduced to constantly posting pictures of cam locking tools. hooray..it arrived. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 since I'm too busy to actually work on my car I'm reduced to constantly posting pictures of cam locking tools. hooray..it arrived. Nice! Did you buy it off one of the FleaBay sellers? I was considering one myself, even though I have been able to borrow the tool from my local dealer in the past.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Nice! Did you buy it off one of the FleaBay sellers? I was considering one myself, even though I have been able to borrow the tool from my local dealer in the past.... yeah ebay somewhere in CA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
831t5r Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 How's that tool kit look and work sconeman? I was going to order the same kit for home but wonder was your opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 How's that tool kit look and work sconeman? I was going to order the same kit for home but wonder was your opinion. I think it's 100% worth the money. You couldn't have even one of those tools made for the $200 it cost to buy the set..unless of course you had a welder and a jig for it, which I don't. I haven't used it but I'm presuming it will work fine. It appears to be well made. I wouldn't have needed it if the tool I made hadn't kept bending in my attempts to get the VVT hub off, now that I have it I know I'm set for when I want to take a cam cover off or do future engine work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
831t5r Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Well I work for a dealer and I kan get the tools there...but my work is an hour away and I'm off for 2 months for california father maternity leave.. : ) ..tools woul,d be good to have for my xc I'm rebuilding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) can someone advise me on this: I need to bolt this cam hub on tomorrow. The gear was bolted onto the factory hub in such a way that there is very little clockwise adjustment left. Since I don't know whether the cam timing is advanced or retarded I'm not sure if I should bolt this on with the hub bolt holes in the same relative position as the original hub. Common sense would indicate that I might want to have the bolt hole in the middle hole.. but I'm not sure. Don't want to have to unbolt the cam hub later because I'll be using sealant to adhere it to the cam. Also here are a few progress photos. painted some more stuff.. 19t is all bolted up, yeah I know. big deal this tool works awesome. this is how the crank is positioned when the cams are at TDC. Looks like there's a little stretch in the 90K mile belt. I'm told that's normal and to reposition it to TDC. taping oil holes with M6 tap as suggested by lookforjoe cleaning tap holes and blowing them out with air through the ports. setting in the cap screws. new hub side by side with back of old hub in case anyone cares here's where I got the angled USB from. there's at lease 100 other places as well I used some dialectic grease to lubricate the USB and the wideband harness. Longnose pliers popped em right through. Just have to get the new EBC and that's the last thing to go through the firewall. usb wideband also.. Oh yeah and I found an R bumber on SS that's local so I'm very excited about that! Edited March 7, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 There is a whole involved procedure in the manual fro VVT hub install - but that assumes a functional VVT. with it deleted, you don't want to put it in the stock position or it will be way retarded. I can email you the install PDF for reference. Probably worth contacting Volvo5.0 to see where he set his.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 I think both of you are making cam timing more complicated than it should be. Don't worry about the actual "timing" so much, but instead make sure that where it is set on the first go-around doesn't cause interference, and adjust later to move the power and torque around as desired :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 I think both of you are making cam timing more complicated than it should be. Don't worry about the actual "timing" so much, but instead make sure that where it is set on the first go-around doesn't cause interference, and adjust later to move the power and torque around as desired it doesn't help that I know very little about cam timing. So what is your recommendation re the bolt hole? Clearly all the markes get set at TDC, the cams are locked at TDC. soo...bolts holes should be in the ______ ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 I think both of you are making cam timing more complicated than it should be. Don't worry about the actual "timing" so much, but instead make sure that where it is set on the first go-around doesn't cause interference, and adjust later to move the power and torque around as desired I think the whole VVT thing is a little intimidating for people. Actually it's pretty easy, and since Kristian is using the solid hub anyway it's even easier. Ideally when you put it together you'll want the 3 bolts centered in the slots on the gears so you have room for adjustment later, as Mark said. Your motor only has VVT on the exhaust, right? Here's the condensed version of how I did it. Obviously set the crank on TDC, lining up the mark on the crank gear with the mark on the oil pump housing. Use the tool you bought to lock the cams securely. Remove the old belt, intake cam gear, old VVT hub and gear, and replace the front cam seals. Now for the assembly part. Bolt the exhaust gear onto Aarons solid hub with the 3 bolts centered on the gear. TIGHTEN THOSE BOLTS SECURELY. Put that assembly onto the exhaust cam and leave the center 55 torx bolt slightly loose so the gear can move on the cam. Put the intake cam gear on the intake cam and leave the 3 bolts slightly loose. Make sure the timing marks are lined up...... Now put the new t-belt on along with the new tensioner. Make sure the marks are all aligned and adjust the tensioner. Remember your center bolt on the exhaust hub, and the 3 bolts on the intake gear are still loose. You've got everything timed correctly, but BEFORE you remove the lock tools from the rear of the cams, you'll need to tighten the center bolt on the exhaust solid hub and the 3 bolts on the intake gear. THEN take the cam locking tool off, rotate the motor clockwise until the marks line up again and check the adjustment. You might have to re-adjust.... As far as advancing or retarding the cams when "tuning" for power, I haven't done any of that. If I decide to take that step I'm sure I'll be the one looking for advice :lol: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 God bless you man. Thanks! Hopefully this info will be helpful to someone else too. If I can get out of my driveway tomorrow I think I'll be able to get a few more hours in, definitely want to check this job off the list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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