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850 T5M Project: 02 Hpt, M56, Tt, 19T...


sconeman

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DM bolts are even longer - 46-48mm 9454744

Can't find my invoice - but the bolts I bought are internal 12point M11x26, along with the 6 allens for the PP.

I definitely ordered the wrong part. Looked back at my notes. Ordered 1275375 can't log onto VADIS right now because I smashed our Mac that it was on.. :(

found this with part number application and picture on Skandix

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/engine/engine-repair/crankshaft/flywheel-bolt/1006010/

Edited by sconeman
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you're talking about the newer style CPS right? because the older one only has two horizontal tabs.

Anyone know which one I should use? I ordered the one on the left but I believe I need the (older??) style on the right. I'm using a single mass

I used the ones on the right for my single mass..they are the proper ones. I would not use the shorter ones.

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well I'm really hoping to make some headway later next week. I've got the new flywheel bolts and some odds/ends on the way from Tasca, turbo (19t) coming early next week, Once I get the turbo in it just needs to be altered to work with the newer coolant lines.

I found some 4mm x 1.25" thick tool steel [$34 shipped for 2 feet :( ] from onlinemetals.com so that I can fix my cam locking tool (the cam grooves are 4mm wide). It shouldn't bend. I made a mistake using the softer steel.

Edited by sconeman
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Hooray! turbo and wideband arrived courtesy of Spanky :)

P1100674.jpg

picked up a 7/16th drill for the cams. The inner sleave of the cam position sensor is just a hair smaller than 7/16th. Waiting on the 4mm bar for the tool and a 6m tap for the cam oil holes.

Edited by sconeman
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I'M SOOOO FRUSTRATED!!! I just got finished making the new cam locking tool that I made with my $40 piece of 4mm thick "tool steel" bar. AND it BENT...AGAIN!

ARGGHHH. Now I'm another week behind while I wait for a tool. Still waiting on parts from Tasca too ...

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:(

just ordered a real cam tool. I guess you can't use a homemade one when trying to remove a VVT hub. Would be fine if you didn't have to remove that big T55 torx I imagine.

Edited by sconeman
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I'M SOOOO FRUSTRATED!!! I just got finished making the new cam locking tool that I made with my $40 piece of 4mm thick "tool steel" bar. AND it BENT...AGAIN!

ARGGHHH. Now I'm another week behind while I wait for a tool. Still waiting on parts from Tasca too ...

You'll quickly forget about the delays and frustrations once you get it together and start driving it :tup:

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You'll quickly forget about the delays and frustrations once you get it together and start driving it :tup:

I know you're right haha. I spent 8 miserable hours last week putting together a bead blasting cabinet and as soon as it was done all the troubles were forgotten. Come to think of it I never think of the 150+ hours it took to rebuild and convert the 98R. there were some rough days with that project for sure.

The tool got shipped today so I should be able to get back to work next week putting the engine together.

Edited by sconeman
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here's my lovely 2nd attempt with 4mm thick hardened steel (that still bent). new tool en route from CA.

P1100727.jpg

7/16th Drill is the perfect size to drill the cam out with.

P1100738.jpg

I used a small level and the drill level to help me eyeball it straight in the center. it took some coaxing to start but all in all it took about 10 minutes to drill the cams out. Very easy. Obviously want to use oil to help it cut.

P1100739.jpg

On and there's no more slop that on the 95 cam. As mentioned earlier I didn't realize the cam slots are offset so there's no way to screw this up. Just drill out the cam and put the CPS piece on.

P1100741.jpg

The cam is drilled in about 1/2 inch. It doesn't even need to be that far. you can see the edge inside that the drill left. It's less than 1mm.

P1100745.jpg

P1100748.jpg

P1100747.jpg

Also I got the wiring for the Zietronix wideband through the firewall with a little lube. Question is weather I'll be able to force the USB cable and the EBC wiring through the same grommet. I'm using the one on the pass side since the Drivers side is already jam packed with wires.

Finally figured out which USB cable I want, ordered some other wiring, and finally have gotten the flywheel bolts and the missing clutch master cylinder bolt in from tasca. Decided to go with a different intercooler as I'm going to be duplicating the FMIC set up that I'm installing for mass production. Mandrel bends with as many welded connections as possible to simplify installation and improve flow and looks. I'm very ready to get that part of this project going, was hoping to have it ready to sell by the spring...maybe will be ready by summer.

Ot

Edited by sconeman
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Finally figured out which USB cable I want, ordered some other wiring, and finally have gotten the flywheel bolts and the missing clutch master cylinder bolt in from tasca. Decided to go with a different intercooler as I'm going to be duplicating the FMIC set up that I'm installing for mass production. Mandrel bends with as many welded connections as possible to simplify installation and improve flow and looks. I'm very ready to get that part of this project going, was hoping to have it ready to sell by the spring...maybe will be ready by summer.

Ot

Are you aware of the empty accessory harness tube that the ´98´s copme iwth on the driver's side, or have you already used that one up? :D

Very Cool that you will be offering an FMIC kit! What size IC are you planning on developing the kit for?

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Are you aware of the empty accessory harness tube that the ´98´s copme iwth on the driver's side, or have you already used that one up? :D

Very Cool that you will be offering an FMIC kit! What size IC are you planning on developing the kit for?

I actually didn't know about that but this is going in a 95 anyway :)

I'm looking to put together a kit that will bolt in as easily as possible and be a good upgrade for the average mid+ modified user. Stage 1- stage 3 not really for the person who is putting in a GT series turbo etc. So I'm looking at putting a 29"x6"x2.5" with 2.25" piping. Would be about 115% bigger than what many people have been using and should fit in there nicely. I'll find out in a couple weeks.

Edited by sconeman
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