Platinum 850 Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Haven't posted in a while, but I'm always checking in to see whats new and exciting... I have had my 19T setup for almost 2 years, and it was time for an upgrade... This is still on a stock block with about 200K Kms (125K Miles). Motor has not been cracked open, so all internals are stock. I have upgraded other things other than my turbo and injectors... - The R-manifold - Full 3" turbo back exhaust - Upgraded, "Crane" Ignition (Like the MSD6A), but with accompanying coil - Manual Swap - Koni FSD, Eibach Combo - New Style Manual Radiator (no end caps, for oil cooler, and trans cooler) - New Oil Pan, to eliminate the the leaky oil cooler lines Everything internal, rods, pistons, cams, have not been touched, the intake manifold and throttle body are that of the stock turbo, configuration, and this car really went with the 19T, but I finally came to the realization that if I wanted something that didn't suffer from horrendous boost fade as the stock turbo family (TD04HL) then I would need to move on. I didn't want to much more, I just wanted to attain a reliable 300+WHP (320 to 340WHP would be ideal). I dyno'd 282WHP, and 360+WTQ, and I probably got the current setup to maybe 290WHP, after getting some minor things worked out since i dyno'd well over a year ago. So I got an itch about 1 month ago, and was looking to save up for a GT Ball Bearing turbo, GT28, or GT30, and turbo tuner, but I came across a deal I couldn't pass up, I'll let the pics do the talking... Still getting Turbo Tuner in the next couple of weeks, but in the mean time I'm just gonna keep boost low (~10psi), which is fine given our current weather... Fittings... More Fittings and Hoses Waste-gate Actuator Old 15G Straight flange that was adapted to my 3" exhaust. 15G Flange is getting cut off and "NEW" Flange will be welded at the exhaust shop. 19T is out, and side by side comparison as to whats going in, exhaust housing on both removed, can you guess which is which??? Exhaust housing for 20G and 19T side by side, again can you guess which is which... 19T (<40K Kms or 25K Miles) has zero shaft play, and everything is perfectly functional, with upgraded Holset actuator, Cherry turbos sure put together a quality turbo, will be going up for sale just as i make sure everything thing is all done. Problems so far, everything that i could have pictured going wrong has gone wrong, but pails in comparison to my battle with my rear trans mount... So I am taking a break so I don't put something through my windshield, and figured I would come in report my update and calm down... So this #$&^ing mount is just in the way plain and simple... I have my turbo attached to the R-Manifold, and I am using the ATP adapter, you can see it in one of the pics above. So... I removed the two brackets, that were only held by one (1) screw to the trans (should be three (3) securing these brackets) and one screw to the physical rubber mount. And even with both brackets out of the way the turbo is still contacting the rubber bushing directly with the center-line screw (that the brackets attach to). So to get it in, in the mean time I have removed the bushing/ mount all together (I technically have my two lower trans mounts, front/ rear, and given it was only held by one screw to the trans, and one screw to the bushing/ mount, I am not sure what purpose it serves, at least in my case). I would like to point out that I did not install my manual swap, and am finding the shop that did that work, as I do everything else myself, didn't do a job that would be up to my standards, but my expectations are normally pretty high... So unless the more experienced capable VSers come back with a negative on the removal of the mount, I will proceed. I only have one coolant line and the oil lines to run, but compared to what i have been through, this should be nothing... So chime in, with your impressions thus far and your input on the rear trans mount removal and your input on what you think the turbo is Enjoy and thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 You need the engine mount Look at the bracket carefully. It supports the engine/tranny on the power steering rack/subframe. DO NOT EVEN FOR ONE MINUTE drive your car without the rear mount. Best case you damage all the other mounts from additional stress, most likely you will break stuff. Sorry your turbo doesn't fit :angry: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 So the mount was attached to th tranny only via one bolt. The motor potion of the adapter wasn't bolted up... I don't know how much stress this mount is currently alleviating. The turbo bein used is a genuine Hahn super 20G. I think my problem is due to using the ATP adapter plate, but in all honesty I don't think this 1/2" would give me the clearance needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O_0 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Post pics of said issue if you can. Could be an overall engine/trans geometry issue. I've seen drivetrains shifted too far in one direction from "alignment" slots allowing for adjust that it ate axles, ripped up mounts, caused vibrations, and even created installation of parts more difficult (could be your situation) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magicaljake Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 i bought my hahn super 20g used from another member on here.. he had to grind down the compressor housing to clear the trans mount you can sorta tell on the bottom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 You're gonna love the 20g - definitely much more fun than any Volvo supplied turbo! You'll also need at least 550cc injectors. I didn't have that issue, since AWD uses a side (rear) mount on the driver's side instead. I also used the ATP adaptor. My big issue was the drain tube angle to clear the Bevel Gear. Make sure you have a good drain angle on yours. Depending on how much boost you run, and what RPM limit you set in TT (you'll want to raise it with the 20g, trust me ) you will need to modify your breather system, the stock won't cut it. How did you orient your WG actuator? This is how I had mine it was close to the compressor neck, but cleared OK. When you get tired of that, you can go to this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Post pics of said issue if you can. Could be an overall engine/trans geometry issue. I've seen drivetrains shifted too far in one direction from "alignment" slots allowing for adjust that it ate axles, ripped up mounts, caused vibrations, and even created installation of parts more difficult (could be your situation) . I ended up taking all of Saturday off from this project, just to clear my mind. I am gonna go back and tackle things today and takes pics as long as I can... i bought my hahn super 20g used from another member on here.. he had to grind down the compressor housing to clear the trans mount you can sorta tell on the bottom The compressor housing on yours, looks like that of a Hahn 16G, if you compare yours to Hussein's (Joe) you'll notice its slightly different. I wish my housing was like yours, it would make things easier... But seeing how much of the meat has been taken out of yours, has given me an idea... You're gonna love the 20g - definitely much more fun than any Volvo supplied turbo! You'll also need at least 550cc injectors. I didn't have that issue, since AWD uses a side (rear) mount on the driver's side instead. I also used the ATP adaptor. My big issue was the drain tube angle to clear the Bevel Gear. Make sure you have a good drain angle on yours. Depending on how much boost you run, and what RPM limit you set in TT (you'll want to raise it with the 20g, trust me ) you will need to modify your breather system, the stock won't cut it. How did you orient your WG actuator? This is how I had mine it was close to the compressor neck, but cleared OK. When you get tired of that, you can go to this I am planning on keeping the big greens and maybe getting one of those adjustable pressure regulators, or getting a 4bar one out of the late 80, early 90s turbo dodge. Should effectively put me up to ~480cc off those big greens, which is more than i need on my stock block... As for the wastegate actuator I'll take pics of how i did mine. I think this is it for me, if i go any bigger, I run a serious risk of marital instability. As appreciative as they are about you having a hobby, there's limits to what they'll put up with... j/k will update as i make progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T5wagon1717 Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Sweet project. Should be quick once you finish. I will be following this thread. Do you plan on dynoing once installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.3 l turbo Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 hi guys, instead of grinding and messing with the tranny mount, wich is supposed to be there, and grinding compressors, look into your opptions first. learn how to do things the right way. you'll will never find stuff like that on a race car or from any quality shop their are over 10,000 great turbo opptions for these cars, starting with stock parts like 19t and proper tune you ca n easily see a reliable 350hp. just check out IPD's stage 3 v70 wagon. nice car! a good tune is somtimes more benificial than a tubo upgrade. if your really stuck on using that turbo contact CHERRY TURBO'S and see if there are any smaller compressor housings that can be installed. I had this done with a t3/t4 witha B housing, this is a much better option if your looking for 400hp+. this sved me alot of time and money. if you cant make yours fit simply sell it and buy something that will. you'll be satisfied with your work and no problems done the road.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbor850 Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 starting with stock parts like 19t and proper tune you ca n easily see a reliable 350hp. just check out IPD's stage 3 v70 wagon. nice car! I see 260-270 whp out of the stage 3 last time i recalled . . . which 265 whp X 1.15 (15%) drivetrain loss = 305 hp if your really stuck on using that turbo contact CHERRY TURBO'S and see if there are any smaller compressor housings that can be installed. there is not a smaller compressor housing, its small enough as is, can't go smaller I had this done with a t3/t4 witha B housing, this is a much better option if your looking for 400hp+. this sved me alot of time and money. if you cant make yours fit simply sell it and buy something that will. you'll be satisfied with your work and no problems done the road.. dyno of your set up ? who tuned it ?to Platinum 850: so you grinded down the compressor wheel and motor mount and it still won't fit ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 I waspretty shocked when i compared my new Turbo to even a K24. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Sweet project. Should be quick once you finish. I will be following this thread. Do you plan on dynoing once installed? Once Turbo Tuner gets here, will have to tune and will definitely dyno to see the improvement i have made, I am currently between 280-290WHP & ~360WTQ. Would be nice to see the gains had to upgrading to a new turbo family hi guys, instead of grinding and messing with the tranny mount, wich is supposed to be there, and grinding compressors, look into your opptions first. learn how to do things the right way. you'll will never find stuff like that on a race car or from any quality shop their are over 10,000 great turbo opptions for these cars, starting with stock parts like 19t and proper tune you ca n easily see a reliable 350hp. just check out IPD's stage 3 v70 wagon. nice car! a good tune is somtimes more benificial than a tubo upgrade. if your really stuck on using that turbo contact CHERRY TURBO'S and see if there are any smaller compressor housings that can be installed. I had this done with a t3/t4 witha B housing, this is a much better option if your looking for 400hp+. this sved me alot of time and money. if you cant make yours fit simply sell it and buy something that will. you'll be satisfied with your work and no problems done the road.. Thanks for the advice, not helpful one bit... Never gonna see 350HP (crank) with a 19T on a stock block/ head. I see 260-270 whp out of the stage 3 last time i recalled . . . which 265 whp X 1.15 (15%) drivetrain loss = 305 hp there is not a smaller compressor housing, its small enough as is, can't go smaller dyno of your set up ? who tuned it ? to Platinum 850: so you grinded down the compressor wheel and motor mount and it still won't fit ? Wishful thinking on my part was that it would just slide in, as many have documented 20G installs no one mentioned how much of the turbo casing would have to be ground off.. Either way she is all done, and I have some pics to post of the tedious second day (Sunday), final day (Monday) no pics, as I just wanted it done... Will post some pics tomorrow of the final result with the exhaust welded up. So here we go a walk through the fun install... Mount/ Bushing (uninstalled from previous day) Turbo installed with no mount/ bushing or bracket(s), you can see why it was an entertaining option as to how much room I had... Grinding one of the two brackets (the one that needs grinding) Turbo housing ground down (this still wasn't the final product, didn't fit as pictured Pictures of how my waste gate actuator, and bracket were setup... Ground down brackets installed, with mount This picture is from underneath. This mount has three bolts (2 to the transmission and 1 to the engine) I could get the upper most (Tranny), and the lower most (engine to line up), but the middle would not line up no matter what, see pic below, dead center past the switch, you can see the two bolt holes offset. I installed the two bolts and snugged them up, couldn't bother with the third, as this was a 100% improvement over the condition I found the mount in. Yeah!!! Turbo is finally in, along with mount, just need to plumb everything up... Tomorrow I will post pics of the finished product with new turbo exhuast flange and downpipe. Please excuse the rambling it is very late and I am soooo tired, but its done, just drive to the exhaust shop tomorow and all done.... For now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 You needed to lift the engine with a floor jack and a block of wood to get the angle correct to get the 3rd bolt in ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 It looks like all you need to do now is bend that actuator bracket on an angle to remedy the rod issue Sorry to hear you had such issues with the housing/bracket - I had no compressor housing issues since I have AWD. That "soft" coolant line connection could really be a problem right next to the exhaust housing. It would be better to use a rigid piece. The sleeve used on the Power Steering pump bracket upper bolt (the one that sits right above the serpentine belt) is an interference fit on the coolant pipe - get a spare one, cut it down, & braise it in place... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpine45 Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 what kinda software were you running with the 19t and are you willing to sell your ecu when the tt shows up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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