fischmama Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 That "soft" coolant line connection could really be a problem right next to the exhaust housing. It would be better to use a rigid piece. As long as its rated for OIL or Coolant it should be fine. Fuel hose will start to crack. Ran my K24 with a soft hose for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 You needed to lift the engine with a floor jack and a block of wood to get the angle correct to get the 3rd bolt in Any immediate threat to leave this for now till say mid February, mid March, when I am scheduled to do a oil change. If I have to crawl under there for any other reason between now and then I'll do it, obviously. But with no leaks so far... I don't want to get under there unless i have to given how cold its been here lately (all work was done in an attached, insulated, but unheated garage, and we hit -30C/ -22F in the lows over Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Working temps in the garage were, -3C/ 26.6F). It looks like all you need to do now is bend that actuator bracket on an angle to remedy the rod issue Sorry to hear you had such issues with the housing/bracket - I had no compressor housing issues since I have AWD. That "soft" coolant line connection could really be a problem right next to the exhaust housing. It would be better to use a rigid piece. The sleeve used on the Power Steering pump bracket upper bolt (the one that sits right above the serpentine belt) is an interference fit on the coolant pipe - get a spare one, cut it down, & braise it in place... The adapter as it is right now has full range of motion, but will modify accordingly, if needed... Would not have been such an issue if I was aware of how much of the housing had to come off the first time around, it was the constant turbo in, turbo out, mount in, mount, and so on, that took all the fun out of this project... And i have yet to reap the rewards as the roads, and weather are crappy, and TT hasn't shown up... Soft line is oil/ coolant rated, and has held in other applications mm away from the exhaust manifold, will change it if it becoms brittle or cracks, or develops any leaks Thanks for the input thus far... what kinda software were you running with the 19t and are you willing to sell your ecu when the tt shows up? I have a custom Upsolute Tune, cost me a pretty penny to get it where its at. I could run 22psi with AFR in and around 12.5. I might want to keep it as a backup but who knows... It is setup for the big green injectors. Also, if i were to let it go, would want to let it go with the turbo. To early to tell right now. As long as its rated for OIL or Coolant it should be fine. Fuel hose will start to crack. Ran my K24 with a soft hose for a while. Good to hear, I have it on other sections of coolant line with my previous setup (19T) and it held up great, so will have to see how it holds up now, right next to the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 not sure how to react to that pic, hack job? or am I suppose to take in a positive way... pics of the final install with exhaust welded and mounted to new turbo... old straight exhaust/turbo flange cut off 19t Flange and section cut out... finished result... So right now I am only running 10psi, mainly due to weather, the A/F is right around 12 - 12.2 and this thing pulls just as hard as the 19T did at ~14psi I have developed a minor oil leak, from the oil drain/ return line, surprise surprise, very minor so will look at it in the next day or so... First impressions thus far, are well worth it, cant wait till i can turn up the boost. on a separate note, does anyone know if there is an o-ring kit for the new drain style pickup tube on the new 99-00+ oil pans??? I know for the stock 850 oil pan there is a kit or a part number for replacement o-rings. I don't have any concerns with lifter tick/ noise, but I am thinking of doing something to put an end to any concerns i may have with the drain tube sealing. If i pull the pan off and i am able to drill and tap that port to accept a threaded connection (NPT or metric) i can use an adapter fitting to create a positive seal. Just a thought, don't know if anyone has done this. I did have some concerns with the 19T but once i got it settled it didn't give me any trouble for the past 1+ year. This idea would create a fool proof way of sealing that drain tube, just an idea, let me know what you think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 That downpipe looks kind of restrictive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macman33 Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Can you tell me which Waste-gate Actuator is pictured in photo 2 or 3 at the beginning of this topic ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 That downpipe looks kind of restrictive... The exhaust outlet on the turbo is ~2.3" the flange that mates to it has the same size opening. Exhaust shop cut the straight 15G flange off the original pipe, and expanded a 2.5" exhaust pipe to fit over original casting, welded the other end to the new flange. The section of the down pipe they are re-using has another point where it swedges from 2.5 to 3.0". It is very misleading as the exhaust shop owner thought I downgraded because the opening on the turbo is smaller, but once I showed him pics of the before and after, it was clear. I don't know why Hahn setup their exhaust housings this way (probably to keep exhaust velocity high...). So the transition is 2.3 to 2.5 to 3.0" Ideally I would have liked that bend/ 90degree to be in a greater diameter, but so far this setup seems to be quite responsive. Can you tell me which Waste-gate Actuator is pictured in photo 2 or 3 at the beginning of this topic ? Wastegate is that that came with the the new turbo 20G, I was told that it is rated for 15psi. I have loosened the waste-gate arm and with out any boost control, just running off the spring tension only, I can comfortably run 8-9 psi. I am sure as I tighten the rod, I will get to hold at least 12psi off of the rod itself (maybe more, but that's all i need, for now). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 That downpipe looks kind of restrictive... It looks like leather face learned to weld too :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum 850 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 You needed to lift the engine with a floor jack and a block of wood to get the angle correct to get the 3rd bolt in So since I had to go under to address the leak on the oil return/ drain line, I took your advice and got that third bold in. Thanks for the heads up, and advice. Also after two (2) revisions to the oil drain line, and the coolant lines, I think i am finally leak free. So the fun part... I know its a recipe for disaster but I have been turning up the boost ever so slightly still on the 19T Tune. A/F ratio looks good, actually better than the 19T. Right now I am shooting for 16-17psi and it will spike to 18 and settle in around 16.4-16.7 psi, and A/F will dip to 11.8, and then hold at 12.2, and my timing is less than say what the car was doing at 12psi, but its still in the 8.0-9.0 region opposed to 12.0 region at this pressure i am completely blown away by how this thing pulls. With the 19T, I don't think i ever once hit the rev limiter (~6400rpm on my tuned ECU) with the 19T, but thats because that turbo falls flat on its face by 5800rpm if not sooner (5500rpm), and if you think your TD04HL pulls past that range, then you are severely mistaken... This thing comes to life by 3300-3500rpm, and really blows you away around 4000-4400rpm and just seems like it wants to pull forever. Hence I have hit the rev limiter a couple of times, but wow 3rd gear never felt so good. I am still getting Turbo Tuner, and will be keen on playing around with the rev limiter, maybe bump it up to 6800 or 7200, what is considered safe on a non-built engine??? I am very happy with how this turbo is performing on the 19T tune, I am just curious as to how it could be running at such an ideal A/F ratio given it should be moving considerably more air at the same boost levels, and be running more efficiently... I have some theories, as to why, maybe some of you could chime in as to why this is and how on or off the mark I am. First off it seems that at lower boost ~11-12psi, i have horrible A/F, ~13.0 - 13.2 and first I was thinking that due to the bigger turbo moving more air, i need to inject more fuel (TT or adjustable FPR), but the FPR is a rising rate (Boost pressure goes up so does fuel pressure, meaning more fuel), well with the 19T, no matter what the boost faded so badly from 19psi to 15psi, heck if i ran 21psi it would eventually fade to 16psi, and maybe thats part of it. as boost fades so does your fuel pressure. And now that i actually have a turbo that can hold boost, its also holding fuel pressure and keeping A/F where they need to be, this is just a thought Second theory... The head on my stock engine is still in its stock state, with all the restrictions that these heads present. Regardless of what the turbo puts out it will only allow X amount of flow in and out of the engine. The only thing i have done is provide a bigger turbo that can deliver this air more efficiently, hence lower intake temperatures, and ignition timing doesn't suffer. when i ran my 19T in and around 12psi (actuator pressure, no boost control), igntion timing was in and around 8.0-9.0 and as boost went up timing was pulled to 6.0. With the 20G the ignition timing at 12psi is around 12.5, and as stated earlier, as boost goes up it will pull timing down to 9.0, still a huge improvement over the 19T... I am monitoring A/F off of AEM Wideband, and ignition off a scan tool (similar to scangauge, but with way more features) that plugs into OBDII port, yes it is laggy, but you hold full throttle long enough (2-3seconds), you will see what your timing has been dropped to. Not the most ideal but it gives you an idea. I am not data logging just doing live observations, will have to data log as i get geared up for TT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 I would not worry about 13:1 af Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Vexed Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 how were you only getting 282whp on a 19t? that seems low to me? anyone else? i recall ppl getting those numbers (not the tq) on 16t's? and iPd's stage III numbers are similiar or higher on an 18t? maybe you couldve saved yourself some time and money and gotten a better tune? you wanted 300whp "reliably" when it was probably just a tune away ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongBeach 850 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 how were you only getting 282whp on a 19t? that seems low to me? anyone else? i recall ppl getting those numbers (not the tq) on 16t's? and iPd's stage III numbers are similiar or higher on an 18t? maybe you couldve saved yourself some time and money and gotten a better tune? you wanted 300whp "reliably" when it was probably just a tune away ) WRONG. Getting 300whp out of a 19t is like getting into the olympics, it aint easy. In fact only a couple of people have ever reached or surpassed 300whp (AutoTEchnica to note) 18t would obviously make less peak hp... and the 19t is to small anyways, good job upgrading to the 20g! and getting 289whp on a 16t is just LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewhiteguy1 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 and getting 289whp on a 16t is just LOL highest whp out of a 16t was like 266 iirc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongBeach 850 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 highest whp out of a 16t was like 266 iirc... exactly my point. :tup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 how were you only getting 282whp on a 19t? that seems low to me? anyone else? i recall ppl getting those numbers (not the tq) on 16t's? and iPd's stage III numbers are similiar or higher on an 18t? maybe you couldve saved yourself some time and money and gotten a better tune? you wanted 300whp "reliably" when it was probably just a tune away ) Thats a good number for a 19T.Just wait till you get the car tuned and then its all changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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