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Kaplhenke Adj Control Arms


Kit Vexed

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You only want the answer you want to hear..A lot of peoples reason for not buying/using them was the cost to benefit ratio. It simply wasn't worth the cost or the wait for something that most people were pretty sure wasn't worth it. OE control arms can last 100k+ and don't cost much (relative) and its a 15-30 min job to swap em out...I don't understand people who have a chip on their shoulder because people don't tell em what they wanna hear.

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lol, that's not it @ all - im just not hearing HARDCORE reasons why i shouldnt? and who here has OEM's that've lasted 100K? and Kaplhenke's arms dont take 15-30 min to swap out? lol, i was under the impression they were replacement upgrades? they're not cause you say so? bury your head in the sand jackoff

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im just not hearing HARDCORE reasons why i shouldnt?

If you're not even going to go as far as coilovers then I don't see why you would want these.

how often are you replacing ball joints? they should last over 100K

I remember a couple of people getting those... had issues, car holding alignment, etc. Not to mention the company's ability to really provide support/service at the needed level.

Buy them, wait 8 months for them to be built and prove us wrong.

Uh, what the fuck more reason could you want? They don't do what they are supposed to, the much cheaper OEM option works, and you might wait a year to get them.

You aren't going to get the "in person, I own them" review because no one has them. Because... it's a stupid idea (not my advice, based on the respected members quoted above). If you really think you could benifit from them, despite all the evidence against that, please we will all welcome your review if you finally get and install them. Granted, it will be hard to take it seriously after people see that you were name calling people who answered your open solicitation for advice and the fact you probably have minimal qualifications/experience to speak on the matter.

who here has OEM's that've lasted 100K?

I pulled my originals out at 98k

I put in some pieces of shit, 10k on them and they were toast (98k-108k)

I put new oem's in at 108k. I have 152k now. That's 44k on hard new england roads. Still good, and I expect to see 80k minimum on them.

And plenty other members have put down solid miles on OEM arms. So stfu and stop throwing around name calling when you're talking out your ass.

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ok, so replaceable ball joints and solid bushings are "stupid".. is this why you have ppl using powerflex bushings and trying to use the aluminum 93' arms for their replaceable ball joints?? cause harder bushings and replaceable ball joints are "stupid" you're right - totally no benefit... just go cheaper and cut corners so you can replace control arms in 5K with the cheapies, or bend them on the aluminum 93s... i dont know what a mechanical engineer was thinking by boxing, spherical rod ending, or making the ball joints replaceable on a volvo control arm?! what a FOOL! lol. you Oh hush.. you're in MA? tell me to my face

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ok awesome, i'd love to hear what he has to say? calling Nick Choy??? i'll PM him and ask, but for the haters, to be fair, i'll ask him to post on here as well - good or bad. fair? if he's had no problems, i'd like you guys to gimme a break.. if he had nothing but problems, i'll gladly apologize to the moderator

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ok, so replaceable ball joints and solid bushings are "stupid".. is this why you have ppl using powerflex bushings and trying to use the aluminum 93' arms for their replaceable ball joints?? cause harder bushings and replaceable ball joints are "stupid" you're right - totally no benefit... just go cheaper and cut corners so you can replace control arms in 5K with the cheapies, or bend them on the aluminum 93s... i dont know what a mechanical engineer was thinking by boxing, spherical rod ending, or making the ball joints replaceable on a volvo control arm?! what a FOOL! lol. you Oh hush.. you're in MA? tell me to my face

Let's make this simple.

Those two things you just mentioned address the issues with the stock control arms:

1. The stock rubber bushings have too much give to them. For 99.999% of people on here, the spherical joints are an unnecessary reliability issue, and are way too stiff for a dd. Poly is a good balance between the two.

2. The ball joint wears out first in most cases, the alu control arms allow for cheap replacement of the failure point.

To put it differently, getting an $850 set of those steel control arms that will rust, so you're limited to the track, painting them, or dealing with a lot of iron oxide, isn't gonna benefit anyone here. If it does, they have the resources to develop their own control arms and not pay that much money for a set.

In summary, nobody here has them, and for a good reason: the benefits just don't outweigh the drawbacks when the alternative options are considered.

and who here has OEM's that've lasted 100K?

Mine lasted about 150k.

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man, enough with this

Nick choy has them also.

Hey, stop throwing around my name! ;)

Nope... I only have the full coil overs: http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=86&Itemid=32

I considered getting the control arms, but decided to throw my money away by doing an M66 conversion instead.

Two pages full of thoughts and opinions on these control arms, but no one has them on their car... interesting. It's too bad that everyone who doesn't have first-hand experience with these control arms are the very ones weighing in with such strong opinions. poking armchair quarterbacks.

^^ I mean to say "fukcing" armchair quarterbacks, but I guess my potty mouth got edited.

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ok, so replaceable ball joints and solid bushings are "stupid".. is this why you have ppl using powerflex bushings and trying to use the aluminum 93' arms for their replaceable ball joints?? cause harder bushings and replaceable ball joints are "stupid" you're right - totally no benefit... just go cheaper and cut corners so you can replace control arms in 5K with the cheapies, or bend them on the aluminum 93s... i dont know what a mechanical engineer was thinking by boxing, spherical rod ending, or making the ball joints replaceable on a volvo control arm?! what a FOOL! lol. you Oh hush.. you're in MA? tell me to my face

You're going to buy ben's arms for the replacable ball joints? Doesn't make sense to me. There is no benifit to replaceable ball joints and bushings because with the time, effort/labor, and cost, it makes more sense to buy a set of new arms.

There's a reason Volvo tossed the original design and made a different design.

And what the fuck did I say that has you being a total toughguy-wannabe douchebag? And I'd have to know where you live to drive there and tell you. If you really think text is not a good way to discuss something, provide a phone number and I'd be happy to discuss in person. Unless you're the kinda asshole who thinks this is worthy of a fight? So, like I said, you are calling people names undeserving. From now on, expect to be treated equally like shit.

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To put it differently, getting an $850 set of those steel control arms that will rust, so you're limited to the track, painting them, or dealing with a lot of iron oxide, isn't gonna benefit anyone here. If it does, they have the resources to develop their own control arms and not pay that much money for a set.

Actually, give Ben some credit. EVERYTHING he makes is out of 4030 molly and nickel plated, it's not rusting (one of the reasons his items cost so much).

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Actually, give Ben some credit. EVERYTHING he makes is out of 4030 molly and nickel plated, it's not rusting (one of the reasons his items cost so much).

Ah, somehow I missed that in his specification list, thanks for pointing it out:

Electroless nickel plated for long lasting durable corrosion prevention.

:arob:

Disregard the rusting issue then, it won't be as much of a problem as I made it out to be :rolleyes:

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Not quite.

My camber plates rusted in 1 month (October, no salt yet) on a non-dd car. Right now they are totally rusted. At some point I have to pull them off and paint them.

I'll post pics later when I get into my container.

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I had 120K on my N/A ones, daily driven in CT, at that time I was driving around 50ish mi a day mix of city and highway. When I pulled them they were still in good shape. IMO the most common misdiagnosis for bad control arms are the inner tie rod-ends

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