gbeauvin Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Hey there. I'm having some trouble with my 2000 Volvo S40. It started with a long-cranking issue, suspected to be a FPR, but has since devolved into a really rough running engine that misfires, and sputters when trying to give it gas. It's throwing P0014 as well as misfires (and what I believe to be an unrelated set of codes including bad voltage from coolant temp sense and a P0125). So far, we've : replaced FPR replaced Spark Plugs cleaned mouse nest out of air intake (yes, really) swapped coils/plug wires with our '04 V40, no change in either vehicle replaced fuel filter listened all around for an air leak, and messed with the air intake to see if we could modify the behavior by varying the amount of air available. We haven't actually checked the fuel pressure yet (no guage), but my car-savvy buddy (who is helping me through all this) says it sounds good... and when it long-cranks, it seems to be flooding the engine so we're assuming the fuel pump is ok. The engine leaks oil like a seive, and the timing belt is all covered in oil (suspect its the exhaust cam seal, but I'm hoping not -- timing belt is by far not the only place with oil all over it). We tore it down today to check the timing belt, thinking maybe it skipped a tooth. At this point I was actually hoping the timing belt slipped... but no joy. The marks all appear to line up at the same time. It doesn't seem to be TDC, which baffled my buddy (I don't know enough to be confused). We stuck a long screwdriver in the cylinder 1 and watched it move up and down... it was nowhere near it's highest point when the timing cam marks lined up. Could the problem be the VVT? We took off that little housing by the timing belt just to look at it. Some oil inside, of course, but no sludge or anything. The little screen looked clean, though it didn't seem to have oil on it (not sure why). We took the solenoid(?) off and looked at it, but didn't see anything awry (that said, we didn't know what it *should* look like, but it wasn't nasty or anythin, just a little oily). Put an ohmmeter across the terminal and read 7 ohms. We contemplated putting some volts on it to see what happened, but decided against for the moment. Is there a way to test the VVT to see if its working properly? At this point we're out of ideas, and hoping someone out there in internetland can lend a helping hand! I'd like to get this poor gal fixed up and running like a champ again (only has ~120k miles, not bad for a 12 year old car) but I can't really see dropping money and time on all the little things until I get the engine running right again . thanks! -GB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 p0014 is the cvvt telling you timing is off. mine was off on my c70 and xc70 when i did the timing belts and it threw that code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db130 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 I had a P0014 with a long cranking problem on my '00 XC a couple of years ago - I followed this guy's advice and replaced the camshaft position sensor: link P0014 by itself could be caused by a host of issues, ranging from something as trivial as not enough oil pressure due to being low on oil, oil quality, dirty CVVT solenoid and/or gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 if the tb was the last thing messed with... i would check that first then crank sensor, but the crank sensor will pull more codes too besides a p0014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWinkey Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Hey there. I'm having some trouble with my 2000 Volvo S40. It started with a long-cranking issue, suspected to be a FPR, but has since devolved into a really rough running engine that misfires, and sputters when trying to give it gas. It's throwing P0014 as well as misfires (and what I believe to be an unrelated set of codes including bad voltage from coolant temp sense and a P0125). So far, we've : replaced FPR replaced Spark Plugs cleaned mouse nest out of air intake (yes, really) swapped coils/plug wires with our '04 V40, no change in either vehicle replaced fuel filter listened all around for an air leak, and messed with the air intake to see if we could modify the behavior by varying the amount of air available. We haven't actually checked the fuel pressure yet (no guage), but my car-savvy buddy (who is helping me through all this) says it sounds good... and when it long-cranks, it seems to be flooding the engine so we're assuming the fuel pump is ok. The engine leaks oil like a seive, and the timing belt is all covered in oil (suspect its the exhaust cam seal, but I'm hoping not -- timing belt is by far not the only place with oil all over it). We tore it down today to check the timing belt, thinking maybe it skipped a tooth. At this point I was actually hoping the timing belt slipped... but no joy. The marks all appear to line up at the same time. It doesn't seem to be TDC, which baffled my buddy (I don't know enough to be confused). We stuck a long screwdriver in the cylinder 1 and watched it move up and down... it was nowhere near it's highest point when the timing cam marks lined up. Could the problem be the VVT? We took off that little housing by the timing belt just to look at it. Some oil inside, of course, but no sludge or anything. The little screen looked clean, though it didn't seem to have oil on it (not sure why). We took the solenoid(?) off and looked at it, but didn't see anything awry (that said, we didn't know what it *should* look like, but it wasn't nasty or anythin, just a little oily). Put an ohmmeter across the terminal and read 7 ohms. We contemplated putting some volts on it to see what happened, but decided against for the moment. Is there a way to test the VVT to see if its working properly? At this point we're out of ideas, and hoping someone out there in internetland can lend a helping hand! I'd like to get this poor gal fixed up and running like a champ again (only has ~120k miles, not bad for a 12 year old car) but I can't really see dropping money and time on all the little things until I get the engine running right again . thanks! -GB Welcome -GB ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbeauvin Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Thanks, guys. The timing belt was replaced, but that was something like 10k miles ago, and it was running fine at that time. The long-cranking issue came first (didn't have the funds for the FPR at the time), then after awhile the misfires (the same week my FPR arrived in the mail, but before we put it on). We looked at the timing belt though, and all the marks seem to line up right (though I still can't explain why it's not at TDC when this happens). Unfortunately I don't have an OBD-II reader so I haven't been able to pull the codes lately to try to narrow down the misfire. I've had cyl 2 misfes, and "all/random cyl" misfires, but the latest time i had it read it was just a pair of cyl 2's. When we took out the spark plugs so we could turn the crank to check the timing, all the plugs except cyl 1 had some sort of white residue on the underside of the plug. Cyl 1 was just black (maybe the black covered the white, or maybe it didn't get the white). Dunno if it's meaningful, but I figure the more data the better. While I'm spewing datapoints, at one point my buddy was playing with it, and pulled spark plug wires to cause a cylinder to simply stop firing, and it was definately a different behavior than what it's doing now (which tells me they're all firing at least sometimes). To be honest I'm less worried about the p0014 code than just getting my engine running without misfires again, I figured they might be related though. I'd like to test the fuel injectors (just because we're running out of other options), though I'm not sure how. Can an injector fail in a manner that sprays too much fuel? It seems to be running rich rather than lean when it sputters. Another volvo forum suggested checking compression... if my buddy doesn't have that tool I'm thinking of picking it up at harbor freight this week. -GB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theForgottenone Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/73582-p0014-code/ http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/82812-yet-another-p0014-code-problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Really sounds like someone did not properly set your base timing. Easy to do unless you get the proper camshaft set-up tool. (99-5451?) If this is a turbo engine and you are not getting boosted air then the vehicle will run rich. This however should not effect a coldstart. Hard coldstarts are usually fouled/dirty sparkplugs, wrong input from an air temperature sensor (located in either the aircleaner or plastic intake duct in front of throttle body) coolant sensor or fuel pressure regulator. Of course bad timing can cause this as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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