gilber33 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I bet all that oil on top of the cam cover is coming from the oil cap gasket leaking. There are ridges along the top of the cam cover so oil leaking from the cap will travel along those grooves and come out right there by the cam seal. Your second pic, IMO, shows that. I bet if you take off the spark plug cover and check the ridges where the edges of the cover fit into, they will be filled with oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I bet all that oil on top of the cam cover is coming from the oil cap gasket leaking. There are ridges along the top of the cam cover so oil leaking from the cap will travel along those grooves and come out right there by the cam seal. Your second pic, IMO, shows that. I bet if you take off the spark plug cover and check the ridges where the edges of the cover fit into, they will be filled with oil. There was some. Oil cap is a must! Trying to see what I have around the house that can temp that leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 what can I use in place of that hose? I have silicone vacuum hose but that does not seem to be super tough (IDK). I still have everything unbolted so should I check anything else? I replaced mine a while ago with silicone after Keaton told me that it would provide better vacuum to the breather system. I used some 8mm silicone from siliconeintakes and haven't had any problems with the hose failing or excess crankcase pressure. If your worried about heat, just cover the silicone vac line with some wire loom. I don't know what you mean by having everything unbolted. Whats everything? Like Keaton said, I would also check the drain hole where the oil trap connects. I've had to take mine apart because I didn't clean that orifice out all the way. It goes into the block than turns down and stuff gets gunked up there. After cleaning the drain orifice, and putting a larger vac hose on the PTC, I haven't had any problems with oil. Except for when my gf forgot to put on the oil fill cap.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I replaced mine a while ago with silicone after Keaton told me that it would provide better vacuum to the breather system. I used some 8mm silicone from siliconeintakes and haven't had any problems with the hose failing or excess crankcase pressure. If your worried about heat, just cover the silicone vac line with some wire loom. I don't know what you mean by having everything unbolted. Whats everything? Like Keaton said, I would also check the drain hole where the oil trap connects. I've had to take mine apart because I didn't clean that orifice out all the way. It goes into the block than turns down and stuff gets gunked up there. After cleaning the drain orifice, and putting a larger vac hose on the PTC, I haven't had any problems with oil. Except for when my gf forgot to put on the oil fill cap.... I think I have an 8mm silicone hose from when I did all my vacuum hoses. Will that work? I am about to pull the trigger on a full OEM PTC kit so I want to be sure I dont buy too much if I can make it better with what I already. I have the fair air tube out so I have a good look at the turbo and the oil leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I thought you replaced the PCV system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I thought you replaced the PCV system? I did 11k miles ago with OEM. That was about 4 years ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 If it was OEM then I would pull it all and just clean the drain to the pan, replace the idle vacuum hose to the PTC and maybe replace the large hose from the trap to the PTC. I recommend using the copper tubing as you can clean it at a later date if need be. BUT your system might be just fine except for the idle vacuum hose and the drain... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I bolted everything up. the PCV hose to the PTC (one that goes to the oil trap) was uber hard to get into the PTC. It seemed like it is 1/2" too short. I also put the last 2 silicone intercooler hoses on. I took off the top hose that goes from the turbo to the black S intercooler hose over the engine and a puddle of oil was sitting at the top of the turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-5Bandit Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Do you have any oil build up around the banjo bolts on the turbo? I had a similar leak and sourced it coming from one of the banjo bolts - replaced the copper washer and the leak is gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Do you have any oil build up around the banjo bolts on the turbo? I had a similar leak and sourced it coming from one of the banjo bolts - replaced the copper washer and the leak is gone. No. I looked at the banjo bolt facing the back of the engine, top of the cartridge and the back one facing the firewall. All dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I hate the line that goes from the oil trap to the PTC. It is so rigid, and has to be just right or it is a bitch to get on. Doesn't matter if it's Uro or Volvo. I was going to use the copper tubing, but couldn't get any cheap enough, so I just bought a few feet of 1/2 fuel vapor hose from Napa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850maybe Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Your motor looks just like mine and I too have an oil eating problem. Current mechanic said there is a ' massive ' oil leak at the turbo. Previous mechanic said to park it and walk away ( 45k miles ago ). Was going to replace the motor but I bit the bullet and bought a new-to-me MB '07 C230 with 1/4 the miles and more compliant ride. Now I wil be able to get the turbo looked at as I have a second car to tool around in. In the mean-time....... Going to daily drive and maintain the 855 as usual until it either dies or fails smog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 That has to do with what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 I cleaned up the bottom and turbo area. The PTC was cleaned out also. I drove it to work and parked it on level ground to check the oil. When I got to work I got out of the car and looked for fresh oil. I did not see any but I was looking from the top down around the PTC area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBoosT5 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Keep driving and let us know. cam seals would normally have the oil shooting out, or dripping down the head im not quite sure why that was brought up? But ptc def. was a possibility. Also, if you were boosting heavily it would seem like a turbo seal or valve seal. It could be a RMS but that would be very noticable under the car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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