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Martijn's Dutch 854 T-5R Thread


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Thanks Guys, the yother set looks good.

Won't go for the 16G then. HRC asks $450 for shipping to NL, so 20G is no option either. I've contacted Turbonetics in te UK, looks like they can offer a T3/04E 50 trim with .63 a/r and a F1-62 turbine wheel for around 800usd at my door incl. taxes. As far as I understood no grinding of the transmount with this turbo either, and should support the 400whp goal.

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If its an E compressor housing, then yes, you will have to grind the trans mount. If its a B housing, you'll be OK. It could get you pretty close to 400 crank depending on other mods, fuel, and boost pressure. It's not a huge turbo but it seems a good balance for this engine in the 275-425 crank range on average. I'm happy with mine.

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Ok Cheers!

bdbb9683.jpg

Installed my 630cc Bosch injectors last week SP I had to remap the TT. Current mapping looks like this AFR wise for gears 2-3-4.

341ace88.jpg

I also started to remove the valves. Measured all tolerances, and the valve springs should be 43mm long and are now 42mm. Haynes won't speak about any tolerances here, anyone here know something ?

c6734152.jpg

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I'm really curious to know the specs on the valve springs too. Volvo *should* have this information somewhere. If you find anything, please post it. I'll make a few calls next week too.

One thing you may think about doing is buying an OEM valve spring, and testing that as your benchmark. I found them online for $5 each. Measure the free height, and measure the compression force (a scale/pressure meter in a bench vise would work). Otherwise, you want to check to make sure they're square against a perfectly flat surface. They shouldn't have any noticeable runout.

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I haven't found anything yet, just the length in the Haynes manual versus the lenth of my used (60k miles) springs.

After installing and calibrating the 630cc the car was idling fine. Spot on 14.7 AFR, sometimes 14,6~14,8. Then after two days, it now does this:

b86ab96e.png

Also during driving it fluctuates like an idiot.. I already re-calibrated the sensor last week, Dont tell me I have to to this on a weekly basis (getting under the car and removing the sensor from the exhaust...).

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The AFR shouldn't be stuck at 14.7 - it is normal for the deviation to be 14.7 - 15.2 at idle & cruise.

What brand wideband & sensor are you using for logging? I have the AEM, and have had no issues with it, even after 40K miles & numerous oil soakings from turbos & lastly piston meltdown. The Bosch sensor it uses is self-calibrating, nothing to set or check.

I would use the calibration wizard to set the AFR as lean as possible, but still in the 14.7-15.2 sweep. This should be performed on an already warm engine, with any CELs (pending or otherwise) cleared. Then recheck your highway AFR's, and readjust the map if needed. The AFR should not be static, that makes no sense at all.

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Could be a ground issue with the LC1, which I wouldn't trust for the world btw.

Slower response could flatten the image a bit. You don't need to see AFR per single rev.

Also for our beloved Dutch gas I would try to focus on 14.7-14.8 and no leaner than that. 15.2 is APK afkeur.. ;-)

I wonder if it isn't better to calibrate to something like 13.5 to 14 and let the lambda correct the rest.

TT 4.4 went flat on it's face trying to calibrate for 14.7 with similar injectors.

DEKA's simply don't go well on Motronic. To many people having issues with fluctuation and rough running engine's.

Maybe there's something off with injector dead times, don't know.

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@Lookforjoe: I know it shouldnt be stuck at 14,7 and small deviations above or below this number are fine. But if you look at the graph that I have posted it now fluctuates between 11.5 and 16.

Thanks Johann for the tip on APK/MOT/Emission test. I have recalibrated my sensor last week but it didnt help. Then I started to search and spotted a small hole in my intake pipe.

Now ordered the following with Kristian from Snabb:

024.jpg

3" custom intake, so no more leaks from there.

By the way, the DEKA's do run a bit rough indeed, especially under idle.

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@Lookforjoe: I know it shouldnt be stuck at 14,7 and small deviations above or below this number are fine. But if you look at the graph that I have posted it now fluctuates between 11.5 and 16.

By the way, the DEKA's do run a bit rough indeed, especially under idle.

Hopefully the post-MAF leak is a big part of the problem.

At idle, the AFR sweep should be over a narrow range. The only time you should see a sweep as wide as 11.5 - 16 would be over a wide throttle angle change.

The Deka's are useless with ME4.4, but JCViggen used them successfully with ME4.3, I believe. I doubt yours are properly calibrated, between the inlet leak & the flaky wideband sensor...

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Thanks for your feedback Joe. I will re-calibrate them once I have the new intake installed (which will be tomorrow hopefully as I missed the postal service today). Credits to Kristian from Snabb for his excellent customer service by the way.

Hopefully I can continue my engine build this weekend. Still waiting on my Toga rodbearings...7 weeks now!

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I got an offer to take over a complete GT35r set. It has been custom made by a Dutch tuning company (KMS Kronenburg) which has an excellent reputation for autosports in the NL. The owner of the shop used this on his 500whp V70R until he replaced his 5cyl engine with a new model T6 engine.

The kit includes:

  • Modified S60R manifold
  • Tail external wastegate
  • GT35r with .86 a/r housing
  • Custom 3”downpipefits the external wastegate
  • All oil/water connections/hoses etc.

Price wise this could be attractive, the price of a new Garrett ballbearing + a 3”downpipe with custom flange equal the price of this set.

My question is more: isn’t the GT35r way too big? If I google results with this turbo, it shows 500-600 whp, and I am “only” aiming for 400-425 @ the crank.

Or could (should) I just run it on low boost levels ~15psi? What will the spool charasteristics do, only power between 5000-6500 rpm?

Note: My engine is fresh: 60k miles and honed with new piston rings, stronger rods and new Toga bearings. But, it’s not the new engine with the better head or lighter crankshaft.

I do want it to stay in one piece, im not interested in putting in forged pistons or spending another $4000 on parts.

What’d you guys think?

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