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Plug N Play Aw50-42Le Paddle Shifter Kit (M4.3/m4.4) Anyone Interested?


Simply Volvo

Paddle Shifter Kit  

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True, but in some ways as my DD it's easier to have an auto.

NOOOOOOOooooooooooo............

And another young driver gets the attitude of a 70 year old... I think anyone out age can handle a manual as a DD. just my opinion tho... Maybe it helps that I learned on a 5spd, so I take shifting for granted, either way I believe manual is the only way to drive a sports car or sporty car like these 240hp volvos.

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NOOOOOOOooooooooooo............

And another young driver gets the attitude of a 70 year old... I think anyone out age can handle a manual as a DD. just my opinion tho... Maybe it helps that I learned on a 5spd, so I take shifting for granted, either way I believe manual is the only way to drive a sports car or sporty car like these 240hp volvos.

I said in SOME ways. I totally agree that these cars should've been manual to begin with, I know it brings the car to life, but mine wasn't and a manual swap is a decent amount of work and I won't be able to do it myself because I don't have the tools or enough experience under the hood. My dream scenario, yes, will be to swap it, but as an intermediate step I like the idea of paddle shifters because it's a little of both worlds.

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I think a lot of people think of autos as boring and terrible efficiency. I've driven both manual and auto(paddles) and i can say that the paddle shifters are really up there on the fun factor. Also right now im running 100% line pressure which means a crap ton of torque. Just earlier I screached the tires off the start and i couldnt get them to stop spinning without letting off the gas a little. Not only are paddle shifters a lot of fun, but they really open up the AW50-42LE transmission. My plan is to finish the PCB and get a test/beta unit out to someone asap, someone reputable so everyone can start seeing feedback.

The run down:

Hardware:

  1. Control for shift solenoids 1 and 2
  2. Control for lockup solenoid(only in 4th gear)
  3. Control for line pressure solenoid
  4. Paddle shifter input
  5. Control for power to the TCU
  6. CELFIX via pin b15(I dont think i need this, I havnt thrown any codes for some odd reason). Bascially in order to avoid the tcu box missing cel, B15 needs to be grounded when the car is in II but not running and B15 needs to be high(+12v) when the car is idling
  7. Possible RPM input for on the spot calculations of line pressure(should be able to get this going)

Software:

  1. Push both paddles at the same time to enter paddle shifter mode
  2. Left paddle downshift, right paddle upshift
  3. Im thinking of maybe working in user defined line pressure. So you push both down for like 2 seconds while in shifter mode, then use left and right to increment and decrement line pressure.
  4. I can use the RPM signal to determine if the user should be allowed to shift down to prevent accidental shifts. Im not sure about this, this seems like more of an annoyance to me as you cant blow up the transmission by shifting into 1st at 50mph. Ill probably make this option user defined.

If you guys can think of any other software features you might like, post em up. The hardware is basically set in stone.

Oh yeah

Hardware:

8. P/N/D Idle compensation.

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I have a Nissan Stanza with an auto. The electrical sytem is a lot simpler in that car, and a few years back i thought about doing this exact thing. the ECU could care less what the trans was doing lol. Now you have me motivated to go tear back into it and make that thing a lot more fun to drive.

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I said in SOME ways. I totally agree that these cars should've been manual to begin with, I know it brings the car to life, but mine wasn't and a manual swap is a decent amount of work and I won't be able to do it myself because I don't have the tools or enough experience under the hood. My dream scenario, yes, will be to swap it, but as an intermediate step I like the idea of paddle shifters because it's a little of both worlds.

I know, I was exaggerating a bit... I drove an auto for about a year as my first car, wasn't even a turbo!

I think the paddles sound like an awesome idea, hopefully you'll be able to keep the price affordable cause I could see this being a no brainer at like $150-200... I think one of the best parts is that you can increase line pressure, as crisp shifts will be essential to make this fun to drive (not like laggy sloppy tiptronic on old Audis...)

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I have a Nissan Stanza with an auto. The electrical sytem is a lot simpler in that car, and a few years back i thought about doing this exact thing. the ECU could care less what the trans was doing lol. Now you have me motivated to go tear back into it and make that thing a lot more fun to drive.

I know for a fact the ecu throws code p1618 when the TCU is missing. This happens to a lot of manual swappers, but i have a fix for this, so this will be included in the PCB just for precaution sake.

I know, I was exaggerating a bit... I drove an auto for about a year as my first car, wasn't even a turbo!

I think the paddles sound like an awesome idea, hopefully you'll be able to keep the price affordable cause I could see this being a no brainer at like $150-200... I think one of the best parts is that you can increase line pressure, as crisp shifts will be essential to make this fun to drive (not like laggy sloppy tiptronic on old Audis...)

I was running full line pressure today... and even in my NA my tires just spun like crazy off the line and the shifts were so quick and sharp i was amazed. Its truly amazing how these open up the transmission. I will be trying my hardest to keep the price as reasonable as possible.

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I was running full line pressure today... and even in my NA my tires just spun like crazy off the line and the shifts were so quick and sharp i was amazed. Its truly amazing how these open up the transmission. I will be trying my hardest to keep the price as reasonable as possible.

I can totally see that... I remember WISHING I had control of my shifts almost every day. I'd literally shout at the car "come on you bastard, SHIFT!!!"

I told a friend about this, if its priced right I could see him wanting it, keep us posted!

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I know for a fact the ecu throws code p1618 when the TCU is missing. This happens to a lot of manual swappers, but i have a fix for this, so this will be included in the PCB just for precaution sake.

I know the Volvo will. My other car won't. It would give me a reason to get back into micro controllers, and have a test car that if i blow up, i won't be too upset.

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I know the Volvo will. My other car won't. It would give me a reason to get back into micro controllers, and have a test car that if i blow up, i won't be too upset.

Yeah its worth it.

So I think that the stock tcu has power transistor for the solenoids on there and maybe a 5v reg for the microprocessor. If this is true it will cut down on the size of the pcb and also the cost and will decrease complexity.

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I would love to see a video of your car driving and you shifting.

Im in almost semi regardless of the price so long as it doesnt monkey up the trans, and looks clean when installed.

The box is out of the car right now as im playing around with the onboard power transistors and such. There is a row of 3 of them, which i believe are Shift sol 1, Shift sol 2, and Lockup sol or line pressure sol. Im going to do some continuity testing and power the board up with an external power supply and see which transistors go to which pins. I am also very confused as to why i havnt thrown code P1618 (TCU Missing). I think this is because the box is still in and its still getting power on constant 12v pin, just not power from the ignition b/c i cut that pin to turn the TCU off. There must be some circuit that as long as there is power on the constant 12v pin it will prevent the CEL from triggering, which is really good news because this means less hardware junking up the PCB im designing. Again some bench testing with an external power supply will tell me this.

Hopefully ill have some time tuesday and i can get a video.

As for price, I don't think this is a concern until the PCB design is done. I'm trying my best to keep it down.

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