Tightmopedman9 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Coolant issues are all good, just needed the longer bolt on the coolant pipe and a better hose clamp on the turbo. Looks like I have a slight oil leak, need to figure that out. 7400? Really that high? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 What are you tuning with? Stock rev limit is 6600, and the 20g should still make power up to 6600 (for more up top you'll need a different intake manifold), so 7400 should be safe enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Tuning with motronic suite. Monitoring ignition advance, calculated load, AFR, EGT and TPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Almost gave you a -neg because you didnt take us out on the road. Come on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 (edited) Uggghhhh... clutch slip sucks. My R clutch still had quite a bit of meat on it when I took it out, not to mention it only has 35K on it. Nothing is leaking from the bell housing so I'm kinda scratching my head on this one. I'm going to try the 'in car de-glazing' and see how that works. In the past I had luck with it so I'm hoping it is a similar problem now. Almost gave you a -neg because you didnt take us out on the road. Come on! Hey man I'm just being safe! Keeping an eye on the road, AFRs and EGTs is already too much. I can't imagine throwing a video camera in the mix! Not without one of those fancy stay amateurs . Edited January 25, 2013 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Uggghhhh... clutch slip sucks. Not without one of those fancy stay amateurs . Ya, mine too 'fancy stay amateurs' aka: Passenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 i ran a fairly new euro 850r clutch on my 850 with an hrc 20g at 17psi, 302/405 and not once did it slip, like i said before, it might have something to do with the way other people drive and how well the clutch is broken in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 What conditions does it slip under? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 (edited) I was successful in deglazing the clutch. Either the cleaner I used on the flywheel and PP left some residue, or I wasn't being as clean as I thought. Either way, the problem is now fixed and the car is holding 12psi without slipping. I did some testing tonight with a bit more wastegate preload (12 psi) and was getting some spark plug blowout. I took a look at the plugs and they were pretty inconsistently gapped. Two were at .34", one was at .32" and two were at .28". I set all of them to .28", we'll see if it makes a difference. I played around with my bluetooth ELM327 scanner and data-logged timing advance, calculated load and RPM. It hung up about halfway through though, hopefully it is just a one time thing. Pretty soon I will clean up the install of my AFR meter and hook up the EGT. My goal is to bring all the signals (RPM, timing, load, AFR, EGT) into a single graph and tune until I'm running my orange injectors at 80% - I don't think I'm very far off now though. Unfortunately, I can't get injector duty cycle from my ELM327 scanner so I'll be using a multimeter tapped into the ecu for the readings. I've been going over the car every night and I must say I'm surprised that there haven't been any problems. I guess I've finally grown out of being a shitty mechanic Edited January 29, 2013 by Tightmopedman9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Tap into the negative (signal pulse) of #4 injector, where the harness comes up behind the head. You really don't want to mess with any contacts at the ECU at all. You didn't put new plugs in yourself ? Tsk tsk :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 I had plugs with less thank 2K on them from the old engine that I swapped over. I guess when I set the gap last I was just being lazy. So I've got the EGT probe hooked up, but for some reason can't get the RPM pickup to work. I grabbed the W/Sb wire from the yellow connector on the middle large gang connector under the dash and I'm not getting anything at my sensor. Once I have RPM rolling I'll start posting some logs. I messed the wastegate rod a bit to up the boost slightly and took it out for a test drive. It started building boost like crazy and at 15psi I shut it down. I adjusted the rod back to what I thought it used to be, but I'm still making 15psi, more than I'm comfortable with now. I tried lengthening the rod 6 full turns past the neutral position and am still going past 15. This is really frustrating. I'm going to go back to standard pre-load (3 turns shorter than neutral) and see what I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 which actuator did you get with the 20g (is it a DSM or HRC 20g, don't recall) - HRC comes standard with 10psi actuator, optional 15psi. If you have the 15psi actuator, you're never going to see LESS than that.... rpm signal pickup can be got in the large (yellow) gang plug by the hood release - pin5 in connector 24/13c on a '98, either way, it's a white black striped wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 I'm a strong believer that adjusting the waste gate actuator arm should NEVER be done to adjust the overall level of boost. H is right, you will never be able to make less boost than what the actuator is set to open at. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) which actuator did you get with the 20g (is it a DSM or HRC 20g, don't recall) - HRC comes standard with 10psi actuator, optional 15psi. If you have the 15psi actuator, you're never going to see LESS than that.... I actually swapped in a 7.5 PSI spring. The spring was made for a forge actuator and was considerably shorter and softer than the 15 PSI spring that came with my turbo. Could the problem be boost creep? I am going to tie-wire the wastegate flapper open and see how much boost I develop, if any. rpm signal pickup can be got in the large (yellow) gang plug by the hood release - pin5 in connector 24/13c on a '98, either way, it's a white black striped wire. Yep, that's wire I got. Edited February 2, 2013 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 Not clear how you replaced the spring in a sealed WGA - don't you have an internal WG with actuator like this? Easy to check the RPM pickup - use a test light, it should pulse with the engine running, if not, it's not connected properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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