Tightmopedman9 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Not cracked all the way through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Didnt you shim the block too?? Must've been making some decent power if they cracked while shimmed. Those 2.5's are trash unless you get them sleeved. Edited February 26, 2014 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) It was shimmed with 6061 aluminum, with about 2 mm of empty space at the top. I wouldn't say they're trash, but I will say it is a weakpoint in the motor for sure. Edited February 26, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 It was shimmed with 6061 aluminum, with about 2 mm of empty space at the top. This is terrible news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 It was shimmed with 6061 aluminum, with about 2 mm of empty space at the top. I wouldn't say they're trash, but I will say it is a weakpoint in the motor for sure. Were they interference fit or pushed in snug? Rebore or no? Helps to know the exact process you used to compare with other installs - should other shimmed failures arise. This is terrible news. Depends on how they were installed, I would say. I think the steel shim is a better solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 I used 6061 aluminum since that is essentially what the block is made of. They were an interference fit, just slid in. I took the block apart today and was surprised at how bent my #4 rod was. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotpantslovebug Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 So this spaghetti rod is from your current power levels and not detonation correct? If so, as shitty as it is least you were making good power GLWB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Dang, wasn't expecting to see that! What is the cause and effect between the bent rod and scratched/cracked cylinder, like which happened first, or does it just all happen at once during a particularly hard pull? Amazed it was running so well with that noodled rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Since the rod was bent the skirt hit the cylinder wall and caused the gouges, I assume. The weird thing is it ran pretty damn good when the oil smoke started; it seemed just as powerful as ever. I drove it around for a few days and then did a leak down test. After putting everything together I went to start the engine and it started for a second and then seized. I assumed I had dropped something in one of cylinders, but when I took the head off I didn't find anything. I'm not sure if the gouge was because of the bent rod or the other way around. The first time I noticed the smoke was after passing 6 cars in a row, up an 11% grade at 11,000ft with 4 people in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 dang, thats uhmmm...thats uhhhmmm one bent rod...2.5 is a week azz block...sorry it happened to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Got the new block apart and found it had the older, heavier crank. Based on the speculation I've heard from others I guess I'm happy. To offset the weight I'm going to get ~7lbs shaved off my flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Bit of trouble with the headgasket... Anyone know what part number I need to get? I was just going to go with the old MLS gasket I got that came on my 2.5 B5254T2, but would the 83mm bore of the previous engine cause any problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 No - I used the S60R MLS with my 2.3l Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Cool, looks like 30637066 it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroX5 Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Got the new block apart and found it had the older, heavier crank. Based on the speculation I've heard from others I guess I'm happy. To offset the weight I'm going to get ~7lbs shaved off my flywheel. so 2005 engine with older (N) crank by stock? ..but has it the revised 147 rod /smaller skirt piston combo? This would be very strange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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