NJGreenBudd Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 so 2005 engine with older (N) crank by stock? ..but has it the revised 147 rod /smaller skirt piston combo? This would be very strange. Post #310 he says Engine is a B5234t3 from a 2002 S60, engine #2146294. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroX5 Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Ok, I did't see this is about the new block . BTW It's just very annoying me that a carefully used/tuned LPT engine died without any major reason. Am I right? I'm use almost the same config and very sad to hear another engine is dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 I think the consensus is the 2.5 LPT is probably the weakest of the RN motors so I don't think anybody is that surprised it went south with the 20G. Looks like th main problem was the weak stock rods, I have seen a stock 2001 S60 T5 bend its rods too so I think forged are the onyl way to prevent that. The cylinder liner looks slightly cracked, I believe the 2.3L block and shims are gonna help there. I am following this closley as I am starting my own 2.3L build here shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 I didn't want to replace the rod bolts so I didn't pull a piston to inspect. The block does have windows though. I'll try and measure the rod length. Unfortunately I wasn't logging when I think the damage happened, so it's hard to know exactly what happened. I had it tuned so that I never got more than a single sporadic knock event. I'll be pushing the 2.3L just as hard, and using stock rods. We'll see how it fares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 I got a bunch of parts in today so I started putting everything back together. First up was cleaning the subframe and putting in some delrin I'm waiting on the transmissions and bulkhead mounts, all of which are going to be urethane. This is what was left of my engine mount I started putting the head on was curious about two things. The valve stem seals aren't fully seated, their position on the valve stems is seemingly random. I also found this pool of crud near the freeze plug on the passenger side, is this amount of buildup normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 FWIW I read a handful of complaints about bad valve stem seals on the market. Slightly too large ID so they weren't gripping the guides well and had a tendancy to pop off. I think all of the problems I read about were related to Elring, but not sure. example: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-bmw-saab-engine-valve-stem-oil-seal-3517893#reviews The VR seals that came in the hg set I ordered the other day are a nice tight fit on the guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) A lot of my harness was bare or the convoluted tubing was cracked. I used some high quality friction tape and new tubing and started going to town. I found some AWD subframe plates at the junkyard. They are quick a bit thicker than the stock plates, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it really makes. To use them you'll need to modify them a bit, a cutoff tool and a pry bar helped... I went to the store to pickup some paint for my valve cover and thought I'd give this stuff a try: At first I was pretty displeased, but when it started drying it started to wrinkle up pretty good. Not as uniform as a powder coat, but I'm happy. Edited March 7, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Coming together nicely. The main difference with the XC plate is that it won't deform with the double-wall reinforced design - it keeps an even seat for the subframe bushing. Not sure why you had to cut it to fit, though. Old pic before I switched to CJ's Delrin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) When I installed the plate with the standoffs it was canted. With them ground off it sits flat; is the AWD subframe or body slightly different? I was always concerened with high EGTs, I couldn't ever push the car past 110MPH at WOT since my EGTs would rise to uncomfortable limits. I took this engine catastrophe as an opportunity to upgrade turbine housings. I was hoping I could just swap the housings, but I couldn't find any 10cm turbine housings with a good wastegate design that used the TD06 wheel. Grudgingly, I decided to upgrade to the TD06H wheel, which by itself is a negligible upgrade over the TD06. However,It allowed me to use a turbine housing designed for a RB20 which has a much better wastegate setup. The old turbine style: The new turbine: With the old turbine the wasteagate gasses had to do a sharp 90º, and the flapper could only open ~30º, pretty far from ideal. With the wastegate tie-wired fully open I would be making 15psi by 4500 RPMs. I also swtiched my 15psi spring for a 10psi spring, I'm hoping all of these things combined will eradicate my boost creep issues. Oh yeah, the engines in the car! BTW, sorry about the crap pictures, I forgot my camera... Edited March 8, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 That's the same turbine housing I have, and I was getting up to 26psi on wastegate. Ill look into getting that RB20 housing though, looks nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 That new housing has to be a significant improvement in flow over the old one. I don't understand why they have such a crappy design - my HRC 20g had the same crap setup. I wasn't aware of a difference in the floor/subframe offset between FWD/AWD, however the plate would not sit flat if I cut off the standoffs, so there must be a difference in the AWD subframe since I believe the floor pan is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Man you are book'in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martijn_B Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Good progression, are those studs that you are using the right ones for this application? Reason i ask is because once one snapped on me, think because of the heating/cooling down process they expand and need to be able to stretch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussianRvolvo Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) Coming together nicely. The main difference with the XC plate is that it won't deform with the double-wall reinforced design - it keeps an even seat for the subframe bushing. Not sure why you had to cut it to fit, though. Old pic before I switched to CJ's Delrin. Can you write volvo part number of XC plate and what front sway bar are you use?? Edited March 9, 2014 by RussianRvolvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Good progression, are those studs that you are using the right ones for this application? Reason i ask is because once one snapped on me, think because of the heating/cooling down process they expand and need to be able to stretch. Which studs are you referring to? The manifold to turbo studs or the turbo to DP? The exhaust manifold to turbo studs are made specifically for the application. They're copper stover nuts with grade 8.8 studs. They were what I was using with my last turbine and held up great. I had to replace them though since they're one time use only. The DP flange bolts came with the exhaust flange, and to be honest, I don't trust them much at all. I'll be replacing them with something better before the exhaust is finished up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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