boxpin Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Someone needs to post pictures of these two TCV's and highlight the connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 - 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850wagonT5 Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 What about the Delco unit? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850wagonT5 Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 You WIN, sir! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 (edited) I checked out the only 2.3 long block my local Volvo shop had. It was a 99 with 150k. In every cylinder it had noticeable smooth spots on both sides of the cylinder wall. I decided not to buy it, even though they only wanted $150 (last long block was $100). I've decided that I'm going to go with forged rods and glyco sputtered bearings. To any Volvo parts gurus out there, can you determine the rod length from the engine serial? Edited August 30, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850wagonT5 Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Buy the B5244T5 I have...then you won't need to buy rods! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 I've decided that I'm going to go with forged rods and glycol sputtered bearings. To any Volvo parts gurus out there, can you determine the rod length from the engine serial? The parts catalog (use C70 to look up, as it still had 2.3L, catalog page usually is the same however) only lists the con rod by year - 2002 on is listed as the change, but it also says B5234Tx & B5244Tx - I didn't think the 2.4 had the 147mm rods... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 I guess I overlooked the engine code the first time I put the engine in, but it is definitely not a 2002. The weird thing is, it did have crank windows which I thought only came in later blocks. Looks like I have the 139.5mm rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Crank windows came in RN blocks, which started in 1999 mid production. 139.5 mm rods until 2002, when they switched to 147 mm rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Have you torn it down yet to check condition of the block? What if it's salvageable? Still going to try to find a replacement, or run with what you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 I'm really crossing my fingers that the crank and block are salvageable. I plan on buying all the parts I need to fix it (HG, rods, bearings, bolts etc.) and then taking off the pan and inspecting the crank. If the crank looks fine I'll take off the head. If either doesn't check out I'll get the block from the local Volvo shop, hone it, re-ring it and install the rods and bearings and swap it in. Since this is my DD I can't afford to take it apart before I have the parts in my hands ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 a little extra leg work, but not the end of the world to pull the pan off, inspect, and slide it back together. At least then you'd know where you stand... Compression tested it yet? Have on hand to lend: bore gauge, 3-4 mic, 1-2 mic, gauge blocks, 220 grit ball hone & oil, etc, etc, etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 (edited) Wow, thanks for the offer. However, I'm really trying to avoid any more work than the minimal amount required, maybe not the best idea, but we'll see how it turns out. I plan on just swapping in the rods, checking the bearing clearances and calling it a day. However, no matter what I'm doing, I'm going to replace the rods and the rod bearings. So regardless if this block is toast or not all the parts I'm buying I'll still need. I plan to do all of this with the engine still in the car, so I don't think I'll have enough space to check the crank for out of round. Since the turbo is coming out I figure it would be a good time to update the compressor wheel. According to a patent application I read from Garrett they say that extended tip compressor wheels significantly expand the width of a compressor map, greatly diminishing surge. This was a big problem I've had from day one with the 20G. If I keep the wastegate shut until my boost target I'll be in surge from 3500-4000RPM. Not a big deal if I'm in 1st-3rd, but it makes it impossible to floor it unless I'm in 4th at a high speed. Another benefit is that extended tip wheels flow around 50HP more than their shorter counterparts. I haven't seen any empirical evidence to support these claims, but they seem reasonable enough to believe. With countless logs of my spoolup time and surge areas I'll be able to make a definite conclusion of the effect of 'XTR' wheels. Edited April 30, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Looks nice. Does your shaft have enough free length to accommodate the height differential? The Garrett 60-1 wheel I used in my 20g barely had room to lock the nut down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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