mattwebb502 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I guess my concern with buying before opening was that if you buy 139.5mm rods, you are stuck with them if your block is toast. I can only assume that there are differences in crank counterweights/clearances/etc if one were to try and fit shorter rods to a block that may be equipped with longer ones. Also throw in differing wrist pin diameters, etc. Perhaps it's not an issue. IDK.... I just know that my preference would be to buy parts based on the particular engine that I am committed to rebuilding. I still say pull the pan and poke around before investing in $$ parts. On the not about honing/etc --- I also have to say that with my most recent experience I was hesitant to hone, etc ---- in fact, I was in exactly your spot --- rod bent, if the block is salvageable I'm going to just slap some rods in and slam this thing back together. In all reality it's all quite easy and not too time consuming.... easy to forget this and feel intimidated when you go years between these tasks. The only thing that really took me so long this time was parts delays, so I just did the work at a snails pace to match. The block I did before this one was my old red block 745T several years ago; first red block tear down for me.... new mains, rods, bearings, rings (ring lands coked to HELL), etc all 100% done start to finish in two days with the parts on hand. Not bragging here, that's probably slow by some standards .... I'd encourage you to do it right, it's not much additional expense or effort. After all, once you throw your hat over the fence you've got to go get it back. Just my two cents. definitely curious to hear your results on that new compressor wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) Considering I already have rings in hand, it makes sense that I should just re-hone the thing. I'm sending my entire CHRA into the shop that carries the XTR wheels. I called them earlier today and they guaranteed that the nut would fit. If it doesn't I'm assuming they'll send the CHRA back on their dime. Effectively nothing to lose, I hope. Can anyone do a cross reference on the following part number: 31330725? These are the rings I have on hand, but I can't find them in VIDA. I assume that they superseded the B5234T rings after my edition of VIDA came out (2010). Edited April 30, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I guess my concern with buying before opening was that if you buy 139.5mm rods, you are stuck with them if your block is toast. I can only assume that there are differences in crank counterweights/clearances/etc if one were to try and fit shorter rods to a block that may be equipped with longer ones. Also throw in differing wrist pin diameters, etc. Perhaps it's not an issue. IDK.... I just know that my preference would be to buy parts based on the particular engine that I am committed to rebuilding. Cranks are the same spec between the 139.5 & 147mm rods. The weight is different due to the revised counterweights. In other words, it makes no difference which rod/piston combo you use with either crank designed for those rod/piston combos. 143mm rod/piston/crank setup is another story. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 I can't find any specs on the piston rings I have. Even the local Volvo shop that bought them for me can't find them in their computer. I cross referenced my current engine and the engine that Tasca says these rings fit and pulled some information from VIDA. I added a little bit extra for any curious souls in the future. I guess the variable is the second compression ring, we'll see what my axial clearances are when I get my block apart and try the new rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 I would cross your fingers. That's about the best I can tell you. I couldn't wade through the conflicting information until I finally sat down and measured mine. Mine happen to be a common older audi 5cyl turbo set as well. The difference I was aware of was 1.5 vs 1.2mm top ring; all sets for 81mm bore that I came across had 1.75 middle and 3.0mm oil control. A lot of various dimensions here: http://www.deves.com/devesrings/cars_VOLVO.php and a few here: http://www.hastingsmfg.com/RingFinderMasterDetails.aspx?AppMACD=VOLVVOLV&AppMOCD=VOLVO&AddText Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Not nearly as bent as my last rod. The crank looks fine (at least for this rod) and all the cylinder bores look great. The rings measure 1.2mm, 1.5mm and 3mm. So the current set I have will not work, I'll be getting a new set tomorrow from my Volvo shop. The rod was hitting part of the crank counterweight in only one spot. It caused a little metal to be shaved off, but it was such a minimal amount I haven't been able to detect any metal in the oil. Hopefully I'll get the ball hone in tomorrow (thanks Matt) and cleaning the pistons and honing the cylinders. Should have the rings in by Thursday (free overnight shipping rocks!) and the rest of the parts by Friday. Hopefully she'll be ready to go by the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 CX rods came in: 556.6, 556.4, 556.4, 556.9, 556.4 They really do balance to .5grams - I was shocked. I haven't checked if the big/small ends are balanced though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Looks Great so far! I was wondering who posted that picture on facebook. 33psi eh? Not too shabby lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 I wish I had sprung for the ARP bolts, but I just went with the CX racing bolts. Sorry in advance for the shite pictures. Pistons/rods out and ready for disassembly: All done! Pistons soaking in some gas overnight: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 looking good. My rods weren't scribed with weights. The caps/rods had matching numbers for each one, as I assume yours do as well --- I happened to get last digits of 1-5 on mine; I wonder if they are all this way or if I just got lucky? It was kind of handy for matching rod 1/piston1 / rod2/piston2/ etc.. I set mine up so they were facing the exhaust side so they would be visible from underneath on a creeper. Nice to see from below and know things are in the right order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 I wrote those numbers on them after weighing them my self. Mine are numbered in the same manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Have you fitted pistons/pins yet? I'm curious to hear your findings. Mine were VERY tight. Uncomfortable levels of tight. Very stubborn to fit. I massaged the small end bushings with oil first, and then hit everything up with assembly lube --- all piston pins/rod bushings were VERY tight and VERY stubborn to fit. Once assembled I had to sit and rock them back and forth by hand before they loosened up --- even had to grab the pins with soft jaws. They were that tight. I was surprised to see this with 100k mile pins. After working them by hand/etc they loosened up just fine --- to the point that the bushings were rotating on the pins rather than the pins rotating in the pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 No problem with the wrist pins, I used some assembly lube, wiggled them to get them started and they slid right in. They needed a little bit of coaxing to get into the rods, but I just used a pine faced vice. They feel just as loose as the stock rods did. Block is honed. Used a 280 grit flex hone. Tomorrow I'll get the rotating assembly together and get the head and oilpan off. I'm waiting for my turbo to be rebuilt, should be here on Monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) Damn, same thing that happened to my car except my line came off the wastegate. Good to see you're getting it back together so quickly. I'm just having my motor fully assembled at a shop to avoid any errors on my part though. Edited May 9, 2014 by fwdGTP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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