Tightmopedman9 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 RB20 TD06H 10cm hotside with a 20G 'XTR' compressor wheel, I believe designed by KTS (Kawasaki Turbo Systems) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Where do you get said XTR Wheel, and does it work with the regular 20G housing? I kinda wanna go with a 25G and if they make an XTR Version that'd be nice. My 20G is already billet though, so idk how this wheel compares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 The advantages of using a billet wheel come from the different blade not the decreased weight. Apparently this same compressor wheel did 601WHP on a 10:1 Evo. Check out 'Billet 20g compressor wheels: Reality vs. fantasy'. I got mine on E-bay from Turbochargersystems. Although it doesn't look like he has anymore left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I understand that, but figured maybe I had something similar already but I don't recall mine looking anything like that. Ill do a little research on it. I'm thinking of just going with a Precision 5858. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Napat Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Is it a 7 blade design, does it spool any faster? I have also been looking into KTS 7 blade extended tip for my 20G. Read that thread and it seems to be the best design among others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 It is a 7 blade. On the last cast wheel I made 12psi at 3660 RPM and 17 psi at 3840. On the new wheel I can make 20psi at 3660 RPM and 26psi at 3840 RPM. The difference in spoolup is drastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Bad news... Head needs to come off, cylinder 2 is filled with oil. I'm guessing it's a ring land. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Guess its time to find another car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 What happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
venderbroeck Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 :< doesn't look good. What caused this? Any other damage? Big shame, sounds like you where onto something with the KTS wheel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 My guess would be too tight of tolerances or possibly the bearing crush wasn't centered when I installed the bearing. However, I was very careful while installing the bearing so I highly doubt it was due to improper installation. I can't do anything with the engine until I take it out and have the crank re-ground. I'm guessing though that the block is toast since I found the oil on the plug in the second cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 This is disheartening. Is that the sputters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Man we need to do a trip to the Vatican!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Yes, sputter. I was meticulous while installing, cleaned journals, centered the crush and torqued it all properly. However, I did not clearance the bearings, which obviously was not a good idea. If I had, I might have realized that my tolerances were too tight (if that was indeed the case). I'm purchasing another 2002 2.3L bottom end. I'll check the bores and if they're alright I'll hone, re-ring and re-use the stock pistons. If not, I'll overbore and go with wisecos. I hope I can get a single rod since the spun bearing heat tempered and scored the journal on the rod. This time around I won't be so naive and will actually measure my tolerances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 (edited) Couldn't it be a blocked oil supply of some kind that have caused this? Last year an oilhose of the oilcooler in the radiator came loose on the higway, pumped all oil out in no time. Egine jammed. When I dismanteld it, only three bigend bearings ware damaged and the thee conrods darkblue because of the heat. Ofcourse I had to replace the crankshaft too because of the damage at the bigendbearings, but the rest of the enige was undamaged... main bearings, camshafts, cilinderwalls,, pistons, pistonrings... all undamaged. Even the turbo showed no damage. Clearly the bigend bearings are the first to go while running out of oil, long before other components are being damaged. When clearences where to tight you would have felt that while rotating the crank by hand during installation, I guess. Edited May 24, 2014 by Piet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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