Rod'sT-5 Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Wow, I left volvo 13 years ago, I dont remember the bearings having no tabs. And, of course, havent had to change mine yet. Is it just the Glyco bearings, or all brands? Even NitroX5's pic shows the slots Sorry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) My 2005 block did not have tangs, my 2002 block did not have tangs and the Glyco sputters did not have tangs. There is no way that I would use heat discolored rods. Although, a machine could test the hardness of the rod, for only $70 I'll just get a new one. Edited May 27, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NitroX5 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 My rods have them, and because of this I pinned the bearings to utilize grooves. However it not helps if you got oil problems, or rod bending etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 certainly looks spun looking at it on a large display instead of my phone. what did the back sides look like? what about the other bearings? Looked at any of them yet? I wouldn't run a heavily discolored rod either. I think light discoloration ("straw") can be acceptable but I'm no expert. If I'm not mistaken, it's pretty normal for a yellowing/"straw" coloration after heating to fit press fit pins. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the result from heat tempering and slow cooling is a harder steel but much more brittle/less ductile --- elasticity/ductility is pretty important in this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 The front and back of the bearings looked the same. I haven't looked at the other bearings yet, I'll be pulling the engine in two weeks probably, I have two other cars that need the garage space before I can start working on mine again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBoosT5 Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Sub'd as this is almost similar to what I planned on doing! To the OP, just read this whole thread, and wish you the best on this new motor! I guess, ill start my build and use a stock turbo, then go BT after all is well! Kickass build keep working hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) It's been a while, but about a week ago I started tearing back into the car. This time, I'm committed to doing things right so I can have a reliable 400whp+ vehicle that will last for many years of daily driven abuse. That means properly measuring, cleaning and tolerancing combined with copious amounts of research. I picked up a fresh 2.3L from the local Volvo shop for $150. Based on the block serial it appears to be pre-1999, however it still has the crank windows. It has 139.5mm rods, old school pistons and the heavier crank. I'll be using the same 2005 head that has been on all of these engines. I picked up fresh rods, and had them checked by a machine shop. Although both ends were round, the big ends were .0003" under and the small end were .0002" undersized. Both ends were opened up to spec and the wrist pins were polished. I decided to go with ARP bolts, not so much because I questioned the quality of the CX bolts (which I did), but because ARP actually had torque specifications for their bolts. Based on the suspect wear I saw on the Glyco sputters I decided to go with OEM rod bearings this time. You can see some gouges from the previous spun bearing, but the horizontal banding where the sputter coating came off is what worries me. I was disappointed to see that the OEM bearings are standard bi-metal, when I was under the impression they would be tri-metal sputter bearings. The PN is the same for both the cap and rod side. Knowing this, I would have just gone with either King or Toga simply for the price savings. By the way, he bearings I've pulled from the most recent 2.3 blocks were sputter tri-metal. In order to make sure the crank was in good condition I picked up a set of Mitutoyo dial gauge micrometers. I was also lent a 4 inch micrometer and a bore gauge by MattWebb. Thanks buddy! I measured the cylinders and was within spec for taper and roundness on every cylinder. One cylinder was .0003" tapered (max spec. is .0004") I ball honed the cylinders and am happy with the angle of the cross hatch. A few day of soaking in brake cleaner didn't do much, but when I hit them with a bottle of 'LA's Totally Awesome!' from the dollar store the carbon came right off. Now I'm just waiting on piston rings. I decided to go with Hastings rings, which were actually the first thing I ordered. However, I got them through Amazon and TBH, I don't think they have their lines of supply down right with Hastings and I wouldn't have ever gotten them. I just placed an order through a local Hastings rep today and they'll be in on Wednesday. Barring any unforeseen problems she should be running by late Thursday night. Edited August 16, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fwdGTP Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Great to see progress. You must have much more motivation/time to get the car together than me. I got my motor back last week and haven't touched the car yet lol. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PalmFist Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Good luck man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marlint5 Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Ill be following this very closely. Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meek Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 they'll be in on Wednesday. Barring any unforeseen problems she should be running by late Thursday night. Slow and steady wins the race. Take your time... that's my $.02 anyways. And no, you never would have gotten the Hastings through Amazon (attractive price, no doubt) --- I waited the 6 weeks and then was told 6-8 more weeks. They gave me a $5 Amazon credit for my troubles. That really made me feel better. Then I was told that they had no real ETA at all, 6-8 was just their default for an unknown. A quick call to Hastings confirmed that they had plenty on hand, and they had no idea why Amazon was so screwed up. I ordered elsewhere, and received in 3 days................. I followed up with Amazon and they responded with "not available, we are cancelling the order" I got in a rush and folded an oil control rail and Hastings overnighted me a replacement oil control set AT NO CHARGE. Phenomenal customer service to match a great product. I don't think sputters are stock bearings unless you are ordering for a later Volvo turbodiesel, and even then you probably wouldn't get them through the dealer here in the US. No surprise to me that the what you got are bimetal, and I bet you will find that they are perfectly fine and serve you well. King bearings took me 4 weeks to get, and as far as I know I am the whiteblock guinea pig with them --- they looked quality, clearanced good, and seem to have a good reputation --- but only time will tell. I think you minimized risk with going with Volvo boxed / dealer replacement bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) After two 13 hour days I was able to get my long block without pistons assembled and in the car. Unfortunately, it won't start. The cooling fan is staying on as soon as I switch on the key, and won't turn off until I pull out the ECU. I tried to crank it for 15 or so seconds and it didn't catch; I think the problem with the cooling fan is related to an ECU hardware/software fault, so I didn't want to crank the engine possibly getting excess fuel in the cylinders. I'm going to run an XRAM dump and then go to sleep. Hopefully, I can kiss the minivan goodbye tomorrow! Edited August 23, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 xerflg4.6 error secondary air valve (power amplifier) xerflg6.2 speed error signal generator xerflg6.5 error LMM / HLM / HFM xerflg7.0 error TMOT Damn, there's a laundry list of errors. Not sure what 'speed signal generator is' but I think I may have switched my IAC and camshaft sensor. I'll check the wire colors... Not sure what's up with the MAF, and I guess I have a problem with the coolant temp sensor, or something related. (TMOT = coolant temp) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 The cam sensor and IAC were swapped. Fixed it and tried to start her again. Almost caught a few times, but I didn't want to flood the cylinders so I popped the plugs and I'm going to let them air out tonight. I'll throw a little 0W oil in the cylinders tomorrow and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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