Another Rn + 20G, My 'build' Thread

[Tightmopedman9]

Thought I'd get some pictures up of my 'build' I got a B5254T2 (2.5L LPT) from a S80 with 92,000 miles for $800 shipped. My goal for this whole project is to stay under $2000.

Power goals are a modest 350WHP, maybe I'll go higher once I get a feel for the power (and more money). I'm going to install a EGT and wideband on the car in the next week and try my hand at flashing/tuning M4.3 myself. This is just to tide me over until I can afford an ARD tune.

The swap was prompted by the leaky valve seals, in the morning it is basically un-driveable until the huge amount of oil is burned off. I know it's easy enough to replace the seals, but I figured it was time for a change anyways.

As the car sits now:

As the engine sits now:

I've got a black PC'd intake that I'm gasket matching, it's taking quite a while with my electric dremel and sanding wheels, but I'll get there eventually...

I have a fully rebuilt Hahn 20G turbo with 0 miles since the rebuild, sorry no pictures right now... It came with a 15 psi wastegate, is this gonna be a problem for controlling boost effectively?

Right now I'm working on my parts spreadsheet and will send out for everything in a week or two. I hope to have the whole thing buttoned up by mid December.

I'll keep this thread updated with my progress as it comes along.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, but right now I'm debating if I need to bring the engine to my Volvo indie to reset the VVT. When I got the engine the cam timing was off by a few teeth and I couldn't rotate the engine without running into some resistance which I didn't go past. I believe it was the pistons hitting the valves.

I put on a new timing belt with the correct valve timing, but now the solenoids are making a clicking noise. I posted a video of the noise on youtube:

Should I worry about the noise?

Edited November 7, 2012 by Tightmopedman9

[D s50r]

Nice!! I would take that intake to someone who knows how to port match because u have to have all 5 the same size if they are not the air flow will not be equal and u will be loosing power rather then gaining

[Tightmopedman9]

Yeah, that would kinda interfere with my whole under $2000 plan. I realized when I started that I didn't want to do the whole thing with the attention to detail it would need. I marked each port with the outline from the RN gasket, hopefully that will be enough to keep port sizes the same.

[lookforjoe]

Yeah, that would kinda interfere with my whole under $2000 plan. I realized when I started that I didn't want to do the whole thing with the attention to detail it would need. I marked each port with the outline from the RN gasket, hopefully that will be enough to keep port sizes the same.

You need to be careful about keeping the transition from the large opening back into the runner even across the cylinders. You don't want to cut back too much, but you do want a smooth transition, not a sudden increase from stock to new opening. Use the casting lines as a guide & take your time.

Pics of the 20g showing casting numbers. A 15psi WGA is perfect for 15-20psi range, which is more than you will want to run without a GOOD tune. Make sure you up the injectors too, really need 550's for that turbo

[D s50r]

I hear ya haha good luck I'll be doing the same thing very soon to mine

[Tightmopedman9]

You need to be careful about keeping the transition from the large opening back into the runner even across the cylinders. You don't want to cut back too much, but you do want a smooth transition, not a sudden increase from stock to new opening. Use the casting lines as a guide & take your time.

Pics of the 20g showing casting numbers. A 15psi WGA is perfect for 15-20psi range, which is more than you will want to run without a GOOD tune. Make sure you up the injectors too, really need 550's for that turbo

I'll get some pics of the turbo tomorrow. I'm going with greens for now, we'll see how they handle 18 psi and then probably go with a set of five-o's when they're maxed out.

[lookforjoe]

I'll get some pics of the turbo tomorrow. I'm going with greens for now, we'll see how they handle 18 psi and then probably go with a set of five-o's when they're maxed out.

With greens you'll probably need to raise your regulated FP. Unless you data log your inj duty cycle, you're not going to know when they max out, probably hear the engine death rattle first. If you're planning on running this with home-tuned ME4.3, you better keep the boost down to WGA pressure only.

Don't ever forget you are using the motor with the least tolerance for lean conditions.

[magicaljake]

what year is the engine?

[mdlimy]

my greens were at 88% duty cycle at 302whp. So i wouldnt feel comfortable trying to make more than 300whp with greens, that was with ms2 fwiw.

The clicking noise is not the solenoids its the cvvt hubs. They need to be set properly, if the timing marks line up it will run but timing will be off, if it was running on me7 it would throw a code for timing. Either get the cam locking tool or like you said, take it to a shop.

[B Mac]

If those hubs are bad for any reason I have a set of fairly new hubs as well as s60r cams that I swapped out for Enem Y21 cams. Let me know if you're interested.

[550]

my greens were at 88% duty cycle at 302whp. So i wouldnt feel comfortable trying to make more than 300whp with greens, that was with ms2 fwiw.

The clicking noise is not the solenoids its the cvvt hubs. They need to be set properly, if the timing marks line up it will run but timing will be off, if it was running on me7 it would throw a code for timing. Either get the cam locking tool or like you said, take it to a shop.

Semi-Sequential or batch fire?

[Tightmopedman9]

With greens you'll probably need to raise your regulated FP. Unless you data log your inj duty cycle, you're not going to know when they max out, probably hear the engine death rattle first. If you're planning on running this with home-tuned ME4.3, you better keep the boost down to WGA pressure only.

Don't ever forget you are using the motor with the least tolerance for lean conditions.

I'm going to start tuning on my current engine and in all honesty probably find that I can't do a very effective job and just buy a tune from Lucky.

I'm not trying to blow my brand new engine...

what year is the engine?

2005

my greens were at 88% duty cycle at 302whp. So i wouldnt feel comfortable trying to make more than 300whp with greens, that was with ms2 fwiw.

The clicking noise is not the solenoids its the cvvt hubs. They need to be set properly, if the timing marks line up it will run but timing will be off, if it was running on me7 it would throw a code for timing. Either get the cam locking tool or like you said, take it to a shop.

Damn, I guess I could up the fuel pressure, but I'd feel better if I just got the right sized injectors.

Yeah, figured that noise was no good; I'll probably just try and borrow a cam locking tool from someone.

If those hubs are bad for any reason I have a set of fairly new hubs as well as s60r cams that I swapped out for Enem Y21 cams. Let me know if you're interested.

I'll keep that in mind, but I doubt they are since the car was running when the engine was removed less than 2 weeks ago.

[mdlimy]

Semi-Sequential or batch fire?

extremely good point, batch fire, i ALWAYS forget that!

The main reason i dumped the ms for vems...full sequential B)

[550]

extremely good point, batch fire, i ALWAYS forget that!

The main reason i dumped the ms for vems...full sequential

Yeah, fricken batch fire sucks. LOL Justus' car runs SO SO much better with sequential on MS3. But that's why your duty cycles were a little wonky most likely. I was maxing out blue's on the 242 (145% ) I put greens in... and I'm running about 80% ish as well at 240 HP which is kind of goofy. haha

[Tightmopedman9]

Anyone know the thread pitch of the fuel lines, return and feed? I want to make my own braided lines so I can maintain the VVT in case I ever try to control them...