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Another Rn + 20G, My 'build' Thread


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Why not just use the new rail with the quick disconnect with a adaptor on the end

With something like this?

Run the fuel line under the motor

I could run line under & up, but the factory line is too small - I have a couple of them, I'll check. Also, the way they run it makes getting the tbelt change more awkward, so I'd probably go on the frame rail beyond the crank & then up behind the ancillary bracket. Either way, it makes sense to move the line away from the head & exhaust radiant heat, so thanks for the reminder!

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I just got back from trying to figure out my fuel lines. Turns out it might be harder than I thought.

The optimal connector would be a 90° 5/16" flare to 5/16" pushloc hose connector. However, 5/16" connectors are super hard to find. I went to the largest hydraulic guy in my town with a selection larger than most large hardware stores and he didn't have anything that could work without soldering. I'm looking online right now...

If I could find a -5an female to -6an adaptor I would be all set. Or even a -5an female to -5an female coupler.

EDIT:

Found eveything I'll need.

Two of these:

mjfjx90&6500.jpg

Three of these:

TEMP%20FJX.jpg

And about 6 feet of fuel injection line. The total comes out to about $35.

Edited by Tightmopedman9
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I just got back from trying to figure out my fuel lines. Turns out it might be harder than I thought.

The optimal connector would be a 90° 5/16" flare to 5/16" pushloc hose connector. However, 5/16" connectors are super hard to find. I went to the largest hydraulic guy in my town with a selection larger than most large hardware stores and he didn't have anything that could work without soldering. I'm looking online right now...

If I could find a -5an female to -6an adaptor I would be all set. Or even a -5an female to -5an female coupler.

EDIT:

Found eveything I'll need.

Wait, you're going to use regular fuel hose for the line (s) coming over the motor? Not sure that's a good idea. You have confirmed that the rail elbow male flare is a JIC fitting? Not metric? It measures out to M12 x1.25, unless the JIC OD & pitch happens to match.

Anyone know what these connectors are?

They are run along the bundle of small red wires going to the positive battery terminal. I'm pretty sure the one on the left is the headlight wiper.

No cruise on your car? The three pole waterproof looks like the CC module connector. The H/L wipers use a 3-pole mini-timer (looks like the back 2-pole in your pic).

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Wait, you're going to use regular fuel hose for the line (s) coming over the motor? Not sure that's a good idea. You have confirmed that the rail elbow male flare is a JIC fitting? Not metric? It measures out to M12 x1.25, unless the JIC OD & pitch happens to match.

Fuel injection hose yes. Why would using soft hose over the engine not be a good idea? (post 59) has been running soft hose since August with no problems.

All the fittings, the ones from the rear of the car and the one on the rail are -5 37° fittings. If you want to confirm this on your lines just check that a 1/2-20 nut will screw onto the threads.

No cruise on your car? The three pole waterproof looks like the CC module connector. The H/L wipers use a 3-pole mini-timer (looks like the back 2-pole in your pic).

Nope, no cruise since right before the manual swap. It stopped working before the swap and I never got around to fixing it. Maybe I'll do that sometime soon.

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Fuel injection hose yes. Why would using soft hose over the engine not be a good idea? (post 59) has been running soft hose since August with no problems.

All the fittings, the ones from the rear of the car and the one on the rail are -5 37° fittings. If you want to confirm this on your lines just check that a 1/2-20 nut will screw on.

That's good to note (the exact size, -5AN 37 degree flare).

I'm reticent to run soft fuel hose over or under the motor. Long term, chances are it will be an issue. I'm not willing to risk fuel leaks in such an environment. Hard line is worry free.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I got my head back from my machinist yesterday. A few valves were leaky but he went ahead and reconditioned all the valve seats and replaced all the valve seals.

conditionedhead.jpg

I installed a '99 thermostat housing to retain the coolant line from the top of the head:

newthermostathousing.jpg

But I ran into a bit of a problem with the coolant temp sensors. The old style is a smaller thread than the new style:

coolanttempsensordiffs.jpg

I would just use the new style sensor, but the connector is different. Anyone know if they are the same internally? Can I just solder the connector from the old sensor to the newer style one?

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