volvoguy23 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Your cam timing off by chance? It's a 100psi even on all cylinders that's pretty odd. I'm sure you've checked but have to make sure, maybe it jumped a couple teeth or something silly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) Compression is measured cold and therefore possibly not very reliable. But measured warm it should be above 160 psi Yeah, cam timing off would be an explanation.. Edited August 23, 2014 by Piet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 100psi on a freshly rebuilt cold engine, I consider that pretty good numbers. Anyways, my gauge might be off, it's read ~110psi on every previous engine I've used it on. I'm running gasoline. I timed it using the genuine Volvo tool and the normal VVT timing procedure. However, when I was tightening the pressure plate bolts I rotated the engine about 15º clockwise (as viewed from the crank) so I may have put a little slack in the VVTs and messed up the timing. Although I rechecked timing right before the engine went in and it was the same as how I had set it. I'll check timing again. I'm going to try some starting fluid and spray it into the IAC junction right before the throttle plate, we'll see if that gets her going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Double checked timing and it was fine. Starting fluid didn't do anything. I'm going to try another ECU tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) If your cam timing is right, I cannot believe that the new rings only yield 100 psi cold. Get a different gauge. I think yours akmost has to be lying to you. Edit: I would think the consequences would be bad, and I doubt it would even try to run, but without sitting down to think about it: is there a chance that intake and exhaust cams got accidentally swapped? 100 psi just makes no sense. Edited August 23, 2014 by mattwebb502 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 I just looked through my old pictures and from 2 different engines, with the same gauge i got 110psi, so the gauge is most likely wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 This: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R5CPAQ?cache=8d1e2eb85e5d4148607f61f8aeaf2c28&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1408833468&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3 I am very pleased with this purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Ehhh... Ill just rent one. The bummer is that I'm leaving the country for two months in 3 days. Id like to get it running before then so i can have someone drive it once a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 (edited) Well, I guess it is possible to install the cam wheel 180º out of phase. I took my cam sensor off and realized that the trigger wheel fits flush in the cam in two positions. I thought I had tested this in the past and found that it was keyed to a specific orientation, but I guess not. Anyways, the car now runs! The engine feels great, but my steering rack is moaning and groaning, the steering is creaking, the tailgate is rattling like hell, the pads are dragging, only one headlight works and over 1 psi of boost the AFRs drop below 10. Ahhh, the joys of modifying a car. I have a bunch of pictures I'll throw up tomorrow. Edited August 25, 2014 by Tightmopedman9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotpantslovebug Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Glad you got it fixed! The cam trigger on 98's are keyed one way, you can reverse them(accidentally bend the key) and the car will just backfire and sorta run. I'm guessing the RN cams aren't keyed as you found out. Sometimes all the headaches make modifying volvos a nightmare... then you overcome and it makes it all worth it. Best of luck, look forward to see how she pulls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 For the steering rack, did you turn full lock to full lock a couple of times? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Fixed the groaning and headlight, bled the power steering system and buttoned up some other odds and ends. I also smoke tested the intake and found one small leak. I've been having a problem with fueling though. It appears my FPR is no longer operating at 4 bar as tested by two separate fuel pressure gauges. I have a replacement coming tomorrow. I haven't been able to really get into boost since my AFRs are staying too lean for comfort. I'm hoping it is related to the FPR. Anyways I have some pictures left over from the build I thought I'd share Clean pan! A little trick for those filing rings, use a piston with an old 2nd compression ring in the oil groove. Super easy to get your rings fairly deep in the bore and perfectly straight. I filed my rings to .019" and .022". I find that a bit of electrical tape makes it easy to get the rods in the bore without scratching the walls. The real Volvo tool is so much better than the E-bay redbox crap! I'm using a 6 puck Clutch Net clutch, compliments of Boxpin. I can't comment on its power holding ability, but I will say it drives basically like stock. Although, I get terrbile clutch rattle when the clutch is not depressed and cold. Also, I never had the flywheel balanced after I had it lightened, I took it to get lightened and based on the amount of material that was taken out, it looks like it was quite unbalanced. I elected to use ARP ultra torque lube on all torque critical fastners, including my head bolts. I made $50 with this little metal yard run: Got rods? I had a little mishap with my main PCV box. I used worm clamps and didn't properly seat the fitting. Due to this the hose ruptured and I was losing quite a bit of oil. An hour later and I could see the carnage. Two oetiker clams later... I'm leaving on Saturday night, by then I hope to have my fueling figured out and my COP system implemented. I'd like to break 25psi before I leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 COP! Yeah! It really does improve the idle quite a bit. I used an old TCU harness with an ampseal connector from the ECU and re-used the wiring for the old transmission plug. Wiring isn't loomed yet, but when I'm done it'll look 100% stock. Also, I found a bolt on adjustable FPR. I'm now running 4 bar base fuel pressure, and wondering what sort of maximal fuel pressure the stock lines will handle. I'll put the full details in a separate topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovlovturbo Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) you mind sharing what bolt on FPR that is? never mind, just saw the other thread about it! Edited August 30, 2014 by ovlovturbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phonsa Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Awesome work! What did you do to stop the power steering groan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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